More than 400,000 miles of road carry the majority of India’s traffic across the country. Millions of people from all walks of life move across these roads. Trucks carrying manufactured goods as well as fresh produce rumble past scooters and motorbikes driven by local residents commuting to jobs in nearby cities. Buses packed with short haul and long haul passengers come and go in their organized fashion. And tourist vehicles transport the plethora of fresh faced individuals moving about the “must see” destinations of India. One common thread brings all of these different types of travelers, from different countries, religions, classes and ages together: the need to eat.

Local Indian restaurants called dhabas stretch the landscape of India’s highways from the furthest reaches of the North, to the hottest beaches of the South. Moving beyond the city limits, tourists quickly see buildings large and small covered in signs reading “Punjabi Dhaba, Sharma Dhaba, or just “Dhaba”. They are what feeds the nation’s traveling population on any given day. So just what is a typical Indian dhaba?

Purpose: A need to feed the traveling population within India has been present for decades. It’s only been within the past 10 years, with the increasing growth of foreign and domestic tourism, as well as the increased salable goods transported, that the demand for more food outlets was realized. Dhabas large and small have sprung up along the roadsides of India in hopes of profiting from the sale of traditional Indian food. Generous helpings of cheap, tasty and nourishing food are served to travelers who have sit in the open air on ethnic bamboo-cots that are often fit for kings or queens.

Small dhaba located in Rajasthan

Design: A small dhaba is usually framed in a simple concrete plastered stall or free standing building located just steps from the main road. Plastic tables and chairs are set in front to draw hungry drivers, and to give a sense of comfort for the weary. The kitchen is never a far walk for the waiter. It may be behind a wall or out in the open depending on how much a factor floor space plays in the finished design. A few tables inside may offer relief from the heat with overflow customers relegated to the outside tables with stifling views of the sun.

Large dhabas dwarf their smaller competitors. Parking lots with attendants, grand entrance signs, billboards advertising for miles beforehand, air conditioned dining rooms, lush tropical oasis like settings and sometimes even attached gift shops give the passing traveler reason to stop.

Over-sized dining rooms with heavy tables and chairs cater to the foreign tourist crowd and middle-class Indian who desires more of a true dining experience while on the road. Flat screen TV’s entertain the newer wired generations and sports fanatics looking for the latest scores.

Aloo Gobi, Eggs Burji + Lime Soda Sweet & Tip= Rs 180 ($4)

Cuisine: It is said that the majority of India’s truck drivers are Punjabi, thus the majority of highway dhabas serve Punjabi food. At closer inspection, this isn’t all that true. A well-known imitation Punjabi cuisine has spread throughout the country, capitalizing on the interest of Indians who experiment with new flavors. Dhabas located in the heart of South India advertise REAL Punjabi Food, yet their kitchens are filled with South Indian cooks.

And the same can be said for dhabas located in North India. Curious tourists with an interest in trying South Indian delights are quickly warned not to try them. Drivers and tour guides know full well that the North Indian cooks are not trained or capable of producing the fluffy goodness of idli as a South Indian. And the fabulous chutneys served alongside. Forget it. It’s just not the same.

Wondering what to order? Stick with the popular dhabas who advertise local foods. Each state has a very distinct regional food which really should be sampled only when traveling within that area. Steer away from Hyderabadi briyani when visitng Punjab. And shy away from Momos when passing through Coimbatore.

South India dhaba right off the highway brimming with greenery

Easy On and Off: Successful dhaba owners know, first and foremost, their location must be easy to access from the highway. Ample parking (always free) is typically provided in front of the building. This is marketing 101, attract more customers by the volume of cars in your lot. Travelers are drawn to a place that looks busy, is easy to reach, and is just as easy to return to the main road.

Open Early, Late and even 24 Hours: Breakfast, lunch and dinner is always on the menu at the nearest dhaba. Travelers rising with the sun can order a cup of chai as easily as the night owl seeking a full meal around midnight.

Toilets: Tourists should be prepared for less than ideal sanitary conditions when searching for toilets, located in the rear, side or separate building adjacent the smaller dhaba. Tourists who followed my advice for bringing TP and wet wipes at all times will have no trouble maneuvering past the Indian toilets.

Larger dhabas know their customer base well, providing cleaner, western facilities often with TP, soap and hand towels.

Wash basins separate from the toilets are always easy to find for a quick hand wash before and after meals.

Employees: It’s a man’s world out there. No where is this more true than Indian dhabas. Men are responsible for the preparation, cooking, serving and cleaning at all dhabas. Females are rarely ever seen other than as cashiers in the busier larger dhaba.

Amenities: Attached hotels plus fun parks, food markets and more are appealing to the customer who needs to stop but maybe isn’t hungry.