Following my guide book’s recommendation, I decided to burn off part of my last day in Delhi by visiting Tughlakabad. My driver assured me there was nothing to see among the ruins. Considered to be one of the seven historical cities of Delhi, Tughlakabad flourished during the Tughlak dynasty. According to some, Tughlakabad is the the 4th city of Delhi, while others believe that it is the 3rd town.

In the 1320′s, Ghiasuddin Tughlak, a Turk governor who had his strong hold in the western provinces invaded Delhi, and won it from Nasiruddin Mohammed (a Pawar Rajput who had adopted Islam and had gained kinghood by slaining the last Khilji ruler). Tughlak, known as a headstrong tyrant, created the third city of Tughlakabad.  He created a fort here (the splendid ruins still remain) with high battlements and his descendant Mohammad Tughlak went on to capture much of India. He also raised a city, Jahanpanah, which largely comprised a walled enclosure between Qila Rai Pithora and Siri. This is sometimes called the fourth city of Delhi. Tughlakabad, however, continued to be the main city. There were eleven rulers from the Tughlak dynasty but only the first three generations were interested in architecture-raising  mosques, caravansarais, madrasas and laying canals.  Source: Delhigov.in

With my guide book in tow, my driver brought me to the ruins of Tughlakabad. As we approached, I consulted my guide book to ensure my destination matched with my request. Turning to my driver, whom I assumed didn’t understand my request, I was reassured the climb up the rock embankment through a collapsing doorway was the only entrance. There were no other tourists in sight, no signage to point me in the right direction. Clearly I was on the wrong side of Tughlakabad but there was no persuading my driver to ask for directions.

I grabbed my camera, confirmed a place to be picked up just up the road, and walked across 4 lanes of traffic to explore the ruins. Quite frankly, exploring and snooping through these ancient ruins really interests me. To imagine what once was, how the people lived, how grand the structures must have been…it’s the ultimate merging of history with present day life that awaits any tourist in India.

Sweat began beading on my forehead and under my clothes as I reached the top of the path leading to the massive stone walls. The fall weather was still hot, but wearing my standard long sleeve shirt and khakis was the smart choice here. Upon walking through the over-sized doorway my feet nearly stopped in their tracks. A small, active slum sat in front of me. It wasn’t seeing the slum that shocked me as much as seeing the slum in what was supposed to be a historical monument. Previous inquiries to visit a slum had been rejected by my friend Rakesh. He explained the conditions may not be safe, there was a chance someone may turn on me or him for bringing an outsider into their community. His rationale made sense but now, after 4 trips to his country, he had let me off my short leash only to have me stumble upon what he and many Indians don’t want to acknowledge.

A minor element of danger and curiosity mixed inside me. I decided to wander around the outer walls, snap some pics and see how the residents responded to my presence. Dirt paths led my way around crumbling tops of the wall. Various holes in the ground showed me a hidden walkway underneath. The ground I was walking on most likely was the remnants of the wall that over time had caved in creating this hidden chamber. I argued with common sense each time a new opening was spotted offering me a chance for a closer look. Getting to the Delhi Airport later that night in one piece won out.

In short time it was undeniable there wasn’t anything of great interest to discover here. The zoom feature of my camera allowed me a closer look into the activities inside the slum without getting too close. Several women were folding large tarps while looking my way. They knew there was a visitor and found me as curious as I did them. Small children walked aimlessly around the huts followed by stray dogs. There were no men in sight which added to the con side of my “list of reasons not to enter the slum”. At this moment I couldn’t help but think of Lin from the book Shantaram. It was decision time…exit out to find my driver or what, expect a huge ticker tape parade as I make my through the slum?

“So, how was it?,” asked my driver as I jumped back into the car. “Eh, you were right, there was nothing to see,” I said. What I didn’t say, I fully plan to return to Tughlakabad with a proper guide on my next visit to Delhi.