When traveling along the restricted area of Himachal Pradesh, in North India, an area that hugs the India-Tibet border, foreigners are required to apply for an Inner Line Permit. Indian residents do not need to apply regardless of whether you are traveling with foreigners.

How to Get an Inner Line Permit

Tourists used to obtain the Inner Line Permit directly from the District Commissioner building located in the heart of Recong Peo on the main drag. Now you must go the the Himachal Tourism Office located at the far end of the parking lot of the DC building. Ask a local, they can guide you. The office is located on the second floor and clearly marked with a large blue sign. Open at 10 A.M. Monday-Friday.

Here is where it gets sticky. By 10:10 A.M. the Himachal office hadn’t opened. Across the hallway I found a travel agency, the name forgotten. Through the glass I saw a signboard inside that read Inner Line Permits were issued starting at 11 A.M. daily. Wandering around the parking lot was an employee of the agency who offered to open up early to get the process started and explained that they were really the source for the Inner Line Permit, not the Himachal Tourism office.

You will need a copy of your passport & India Visa. If you don’t have copies, you can find a photostat just across the street from the DC Building. The application process is straightforward. The travel agency will take your copies and application form, your passport and Rs 150. You’ll be asked to walk with a representative from the agency over to the DC building into a smaller building located behind the main offices. Inside your application will be entered into a computer and your picture will be taken.

Now you’re off to the DC building, up to the second floor where a lot of stamping takes place. Just when you think you’re done, you’re off to get the final signature from the District Magistrate. Unfortunately I had to wait for this part, and wait, and wait.

Total time to obtain the permit: 1 hour 35 minutes.

The permit is mandatory, without it you will be turned away. The check posts are at Spello, Chango and Losar heading South to North. Outside of Recong Peo, permits can be obtain from the offices of District Magistrates at Shimla, Kullu, and Keylong. And from the S.D.M. offices at Rampur, Nichar, Kalpa, Kaza and Keylong.