Easily my new favorite hotel in Delhi, Hotel Shipra changed my perceptions of what a budget hotel in this city would be. Clean, spacious and comfortable rooms can be found here as well as the needed amenities such as room service, laundry and luggage assistance. Located in the bustling area of Laxmi Nagar in the Northeastern part of Delhi, consider this a place for long term stays or travelers on a budget. Although not located near many of the popular tourist sites of the city, my criteria for this stay was totally based on cost.

Guests reach the Delhi hotel lobby by crossing a narrow lane which runs directly in front of the building. Mind the vehicle and scooter traffic that speeds past this road with little warning in addition to heavy foot traffic. A rent-a-cop stands guard round the clock as well as playing doorman for arriving and departing guests. The lobby is covered in dark woods and fabrics. A small seating area is provided near the front desk. Off the right rear of the lobby is the on-site restaurant offering Indian food and Continental meal service. Skip the overpriced fare as a simple breakfast of two boiled eggs, gobi parantha and chai cost me Rs 192. Instead, walk down to the VS3 Mall just a few blocks from the hotel. Here you can find multiple US fast food joints such as KFC, McDonalds and Pizza Hut. Indian sit down fare is ready available around every corner.

Back in the hotel, the cheaper room option held twin beds. I was pleasantly surprised with the mini fridge, A/C ( not used), ceiling fan and 100+ channels on TV. The bathroom had full time running hot water including a shower and Western toilet. Now, the room did not have a lot of charm but it was functional, clean, and secure. Cost with tax was Rs 2149/night or $48/night.

A Metro station with the overhead line running directly in front of the cheap New Delhi hotel is just a few blocks distance. Taxis are abundant and easy to flag down although most needs can be met by a short walk in either direction. For internet run across the busy multi-lane road to the cyber cafe located on the second level. Rs 13 buys you an hour of service, cheapest I’ve found yet!

UPDATE 6 February 2012: Shipra Laxmi Nagar appears to be permanently closed. A remodel project which began more than a year ago has yet to be completed, and any signs of reopening are not to be found.

The shop was a small hodge podge of a knick knacks contained in a rectangle space that spread itself deeper than wide. Shelves upon shelves of trickets, jewelry, kitsch home decor items, and random Indian souvenirs may have been a shopper’s delight although I found more interest in the air conditioned breezes and the owner who sat quietly in the corner watching me browse. He was wearing crisp khaki shorts, a sharply pressed chambray shirt, watch and sandals. His age had to be late 50′s, early 60′s. He had light skin and a balding head of hair that had long ago turned salt and pepper. I wasn’t sure if the air conditioning was more for his enjoyment or mine. Sitting confidently relaxed in a beach chair , he initiated a conversation beyond “Hi” and “How are you?”, that someone worked itself into a debate about culture, more specifically what is it?

It really started when this friendly, seemingly outgoing shopkeeper asked if this was my first trip to India. When I replied it was my 5th time he responded with a question I often get asked, “Why do you come to India so often?” My answer always disappoints…”food, people, culture, history…” I say before he interrupts me.

“Oh, culture, what does that mean? There is no culture here. We all are one, no difference”, he said. “I’ve traveled the United States and Europe. You don’t actually need to travel to a foreign country. One can watch TV to know the ‘culture’ of a country.”

What the what? Does this guy hear what he is saying? I argued that a person needs the fragrant aromas, to hear the sounds, run their fingertips across foreign soil and taste authentic spices on their tongue to fully appreciate what another person can only see on TV.

“Don’t take offense,” he said, before explaining his travels, how he learned from them and the people he met, the sights he visited…

I rationalized that is culture. How he answered my next question with a straight face is still a mystery. “Do you travel within India?” I asked. “No,” he replied. This argument was like a house of cards with heavy winds coming fast. How can one say India has little to offer when he doesn’t venture into his own backyard?

In a matter of fact, mild tone, the shopkeeper continued on; He was a bad student, a trouble maker. He claimed he learned more from traveling than school. He had just argued himself into a corner and he knew it. Any retort I tried to interject was met with what felt like irritation and a belittlement of my interest in India. It was time to leave his shop. My body had managed to stop sweating long enough for my shirt to try it’s best to return to it’s dry state and I was feeling like a stranger in a country I’d been traveling for years.

“Where ya from? What, are ya like from Cheecago? I bet you’s from out there, out on the west cooast. You ain’t got no culcha out there. All the culcha you need is right here in New Yawrk.” -Any New Yorker

Maybe culture wasn’t the right word? I stewed on this conversation, once again lazily roaming Puducherry’s French Quarter. Another gift shop, another shopkeeper…

I only found out about Love Travel Guides the best way a traveler discovers anything, by accident. The books were a recommendation by Mariellen Ward (founder and writer of BreatheDreamGo) to an avid reader who sought Mariellen’s advice on traveling India. The reader was so happy with the guide books she mentioned them in a post I happened to stumble across on Facebook. I quickly ordered Love Delhi and Love Jaipur, Rajasthan, unsure of whether each book was part journal, part guide or all journal or…what?.

Days later I received the hand books in the mail. Two unassuming, uncomplicated, and utterly brilliant guides were directing me, a traveler of India since 2005, to unknown places in two cities I thought were previously well discovered. Each book is divided into 8 categories with topics such as Must’s (What to know and do), Delicious (where to eat and drink), Adventurous (sightseeing of the common, and not so common kind), and Essential (transportation, communication and more), all designed to be the anti mass tourist book. Love Travel claims, “using this guide is like being chaperoned by a good friend.” They couldn’t be more right. And while the topics aren’t groundbreaking, the recommendations inside each category are atypical of what Lonely Planet and the rest of the lot share ad naseum. Love Travel Guides attack a city the way a local would from a morning stroll through the flower gardens of Jaipur to a jewelry pilgrimage during mid-day before ending the night with drinks at a palace hotel before moving on the dinner at a local’s favorite restaurant. Additional sightseeing for surrounding areas are included relative to the main city covered.

Activities for guys, activities for gals, this is definitely not the journal I feared. Each book is handmade in India of hand-loom khadi covers. A sturdy elastic band attached to the back cover can be used as a bookmark, a nice feature given these guidebooks are not suited for dissection as are the commercial books I have recommended be ripped up by state for easier packing. Absent are the usual full color photos replaced by two color illustrations. Readers become explorers free from spoon fed entries of the usual sights and sounds of India using Love Travel Guides. Of course the biggest and best tourist sights are mentioned, but in a way as to say, after you’ve finished a gastro tour through the old market, and lazily picking through old book shops or renting bicycles for a spin around Connaught Place, you might want to drop by Red Fort. Trust me, you won’t see that on any other itinerary soon.

Anyone thinking about a trip to India will be feel as if they’re already on Indian soil after turning back the front cover. Don’t let the $40 price tag deter you; travelers of all budgets can make use of Love Delhi, Love Jaipur, Rajasthan, Love Mumbai, and Love Bengaluru.

Read more about Mariellen Ward and travel that changes you at BreatheDreamGo.com.

Senior citizens will receive a 50% discount on all of CTB properties across the state of Chhattisgarh. No minimum age requirement has been announced to qualify for senior status.

Students traveling in groups of 25 school children or more will receive a discounted room rate of just Rs 75 per student, including meal food.

Families can also take part in the savings. CTB is currently promoting special family package tours at discounted rates. These include:

‘CALL OF THE MYSTIC’ covering Raipur-Jagdalpur-Chitrakote-Teerathgarh-Barsur-Dantewada-Gangrel-Sirpur-Barnavapara-Raipur.

‘ROYAL ACHANAKMAR’ covering Raipur- Bilaspur- Achanakmar- Amarkantak- Achanakmar- Bhoramdeo- Raipur

‘NATURE’S TRAIL’ for the nature lovers covering Raipur- Bilaspur- Amadob- Amarkantak- Achanakmar Sanctuary- Shivrinarayan- Tala- Raipur- Mohda (Barnawapara)- Raipur

‘RETREAT BY THE WATERFALLS’ covering Vishakhapatnam- Chitrakote- Tirathgarh- Kutumsar Caves- Chitrakote- Vishakhapatnam

For pricing, accommodations and dates, travelers can contact any of the 14 Chhattisgarh Tourist Information Centers.

A total of 22 different popular tourist sights are available for download. Of the 22 Chhattisgarh travel brochures online, 9 are offered in both Hindi and English languages, 8 are available only in Hindi, and 5 are offered in English only. The most popular sightseeing destinations are highlighted along with nearby attractions, recommended accommodations, and personalized information on how to reach the region.

India state tourism board travel brochures consistently highlight important local sightseeing places which popular brand name guide books such as Lonely Planet and Rough Guide overlook. Foreign travelers and Indian nationals looking for the path less taken will find fresh ideas in the CTB guides. With online downloads, prospective trips can be planned and budgeted from the comfort of home. No more waiting to reach a tourist info center only to find you’ve already missed something special.

Download all 22 here, and let’s go visit Chhattisgarh!

Background

Chennakesava Temple (Keshava Temple) is said to have been commissioned in 1116 by King Vishnuvardhana in memory of his victory over the neighboring Cholas. Another theory exists which states the temple was built when King Vishnuvardhana converted from Jainism to Vaishnavism, as advised by Guru Sri Ramanujacharyaand.

It took more than 100 years to complete the exceptionally large and lavish temple which boasts a new style of architecture for which the Hoysala’s became well known. They conceived their shrines as star shaped structures rather than the traditional cubical form. Chennakesava Temple is a exemplary example of this new found style of building, and remains a premiere Hoysala monument. Students of architecture as well as historians are marveled by it’s form. The temple is currently a proposed UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Temple Complex

Entry into Chennakesava Temple complex is via a seven-storey gopuram which can be seen well in advance of arrival. Just one entrance gateway allows visitors and followers to pass through the massive stone wall surrounding the collection of temples.

Chennakeshava Temple stands directly opposite the entrance gopuram and instantly draws tourists forward. Three distinct pieces of architecture can be seen within the soapstone monument: A platform, an open hall and the shrine. First, the platform or jagati, stands several feet tall from ground level. It is an essential part of the over-all design of the monument. Eight steps lead to the outer platform ring flanked by miniature shrines. This platform provides a walkway around the exterior of the temple. An additional eight steps lead into the the second part of the monument, the open hall or mandapa. Traditionally mandapas are open column hallways which extend from the inner shrine. In the case of Chennakesava Temple, stone pillars protrude from a parapet wall about 6 feet high to hold up the roof. Ornate stone screens were later installed between the roof and the parapet walls thus giving the illusion of walking into an enclosed room. Lavish sculptural decorations and depictions, some of them extremely delicate, span the hall. Finally, the larger than usual inner pavilion or Navaranga is finished in stunning fashion. Forty monolithic pillars in either stellar or circular shape are covered in hand carved motifs. The presiding deity is a 6 foot manifestation of Lord Krishna or Keshava, an avatar of Lord Vishnu for whom the temple is dedicated.

One of the many architectural highlights of Chennakesava Temple is the 42 bracketed figurines called Madanikas or celestial nymphs (figures of women in ritual dancing poses) attached between the roof and top section of pillar along the exterior walls. Of the 42 Madanikas, 38 are found outside while the remaining 4 figurines are located within the stunning Navaranga ceiling. The detail rich carved stone figures are said to be exclusive to Belur. Unfortunately they are also susceptible to weather. Time has worn away many of the finest details while some of the carvings are missing substantial pieces altogether.

The other major architectural highlight of Chennakesava Temple are the rows of friezes along the outer temple wall. The lowest frieze depicts 650 charging elephants, no two shapes alike. Their presence symbolizes stability, tremendous strength and are considered the weight lifters of the temple. Above the elephants are lions, symbolizing courage. Horses are shown on the next row, a symbol of speed. The next row of bead garlands represents beauty. The fifth row shows small figures of men and women dancing and playing musical instruments. Finally a sixth row depicts ladies in various poses.

Garuda Stambha

This pillar, customarily found in front of many Vishnu temples, stands adjacent the Keshava Temple. Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s carrier, once could be seen atop the stone pillar. Weather has damaged the figure beyond recognition. Tour guides are particularly quick to demonstrate how the stone pillar is seemingly floating above the rock base. To illustrate this marvel, paper is pulled between the two surfaces. And yes, it really does appear to be floating.
 

Kappe Chennigaray Temple

Similar in style to Kesava Temple, while less opulent, is Kappe Chennigaray Temple. The two cell temple is situated south of the main temple and also rests on an elevated platform. Far less detail can be seen along the stone walls and pillars aside from a beautiful 6 1/2 foot high sculpture of Chennakesava inside. Bracket figures can also be seen attached to four navaranga pillars, as found within the Keshava Temple, along with Hoysala emblems and lotus medallions.
 

Rama Temple

Far less attention has been afforded to the somewhat dilapidated Rama Temple devoted to the 7th incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Few architectural details can be found inside or outside the drab stone building constructed with a traditional open air mandapa. The elevated platform from which the temple is built upon is a fraction in height compared to the other neighboring temples. Large sun soaked sections of the stone platform base are used by temple volunteers to dry fruits and other foods. Few tourists venture this far from the main attraction.

Saumyanayaki Temple

This temple located south-west of the Keshava Temple blends of a mixture of architectural elements seen at both the Rama and Keshava Temple. An elongated mandapa extends from the inner sanctum over the elevated platform and staircase onto the stone courtyard. Stone columns similar to Rama Temple’s simplicity can be seen holding up the furthest extension which was later added to the original design. Circular monolithic columns support the roof section covering the elevated platform entrance. A shikhara can be seen only from a side view as it is blocked from the height of it’s mandapa. A miniature shrine is attached to the tower above the mandapa, topped with elegant carvings of peacocks and lotus flowers.

Marriage Hall

Veera Narayana Temple

Small, compact and eye catching, Veera Narayana Temple exterior is covered in gorgeous carvings of both Vishnu and Shiva faiths. Fifty-nine large images can be seen along the outer wall including Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, Ganesha, Parvati, and Saraswati. Also sitting on a slightly elevated platform, this is the only temple of it’s kind within Chennakesava Temple complex.
 
 
 

Andal Temple

A temple for female gods. Andal Temple is devoted to the goddess Andal, also known as Ranganayaki Temple. It’s compact elevated platform is adorned with friezes of elephants, scroll work and scenes from the Puranas (ancient Hindu literature). An open-air mandapa, supported by circular columns, is attached to the inner sanctum. Barely visible is a squat shikhara above the inner shrine. What really captures visitor’s attention is a row of 31 large deity images.

What The Guidebooks Won’t Tell You

Be sure to look for the Hoysala royal emblem upon entering Chennakesava Temple. This emblem is a trademark of all Hoysala Dynasty temples, found at the entrance of almost all their temples. The words Hoy Sa’la mean “strike Sa’la!”, hence the carved image is of Sa’la, the legendary head of the Hoysala Dynasty, killing the tiger. It is from this real life act that the dynasty name, Hoysala, originated.

The shikhara or tower above the inner sanctum of Chennakesava Temple is gone. No detail is given as to why the common architectural feature of most Hindu temples is missing.

Flat stones make up the entire temple couryard surface. Glaring South India sun bakes the stone to an unforgiving temperature upon which bare feet singe quickly. Walking between numerous temples is an exercise in short sprints between shaded area to shaded area. Red colored runners made of jute or some other natural fiber can be seen extending from the entrance to Chennakesava Temple, and then around the upper platform base. These mats are to be used to avoid the hot stones. Unfortunately they are not provided beyond Chennakesava Temple.

Why Visit Chennakesava Temple

Few major Hoysala sites remain as well kept as that of Belur Chennakesava Temple. Architectural details found here are some of the finest examples of Hoysala Dynasty. Numerous books have been written delving into specific artists, their techniques used and the relevance of included images. However tourists can get an abbreviated version through pick-up guides that humorously walk visitors through a brief history of the temple while pointing out it’s most important features. Plan on a minimum of 1 hour to visit the temple bearing in mind some tourists spend days here.

What to Know

Temple tank of Chennakesava Temple

Admission is free and open to people of all faiths. Cameras are allowed without charge but may you may be asked not to photograph certain deities.

Puja ceremonies run daily at 9 am, 3 pm, and 7:30 pm.

Pick-up guides are available upon entry. Foreign languages beside English must be prearranged through a travel agent. Avoid any guide offers outside the temple and arrange a fee upfront for ALL people in your party. A general guideline would be no less than Rs 100, no more than Rs 250 per person up to 2 people. Additional small fees inside the inner shrine are requested (and can be declined) to operate lights which illuminate ceiling carvings.

Shoes are not allowed inside and may left at an attended shoe stall. Beware of outrageous fees assessed by attendants spoiled by the wealth of temple visitors. Rates of more than Rs 10 per pair of shoes is laughable and should not be paid. If in doubt, leave your shoes alongside the pile locals use for free just outside the main entrance.

Commencing from Delhi Safdarjung Railway Station, the special train will also make stops at Jaipur and Agra before continuing directly to Goa. One full day of sightseeing in North Goa and one full day of sightseeing in South Goa is included in the package. Local ground transportation will be on 55 seat, Non AC buses.

Four levels of travel, ranging from budget to deluxe class, will all include the following amenities: rail travel, transportation for sightseeing, hotel accommodation, and meals onboard and offboard (Breakfast + morning Tea / Coffee + Lunch + Dinner). The IRCTC is offering an additional 5% early bird discount to those travelers who book their tour before December 18, 2011.

As the days rolled past, creeping closer and closer to what would have been a day started by watching the Thanksgiving Day Parade on TV, I sorta forgot about Tom the turkey. I was too busy being immersed into the ancient surroundings of a foreign culture. Along with the sights of India, my days were filled with new smells, new tastes, and new body languages to decipher. I didn’t have time to be homesick.

So as the last Thursday of November fell upon the country, albeit many hours earlier than in the United States, the only reminder I had of Thanksgiving in India was a small blurb on the front page of a local newspaper. “Oh yeah”, I thought to myself. As America slows down for one day to give thanks the majority of the world moves about unaffected. There was no special menu for dinner later that night. No turkey and all the trimmings. In fact I think I may have been fasting on Thursdays for that trip (don’t ask). It’s humbling to finally realize that the bubble we live in at home is not reality outside of our borders. And that’s OK, because that’s what it means to travel: to get away, to experience new ways of living, to leave the comforts of home so we can appreciate them even more when we return.

I’ve thought about that one holiday away from home many times since. Surely there must be one turkey cooked somewhere in the country. How do the expats of India celebrate Thanksgiving? What about the tourists who are missing Thanksgiving this year? Did they purposely plan their holiday away or was it motivated by something else?

Whatever the reason, I wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving, where ever they are this year.

An inaugural launch chugged out of Dibrugarh on November 19, 2011, before regular passenger service kicks off on November 26. The train route was christened Vivek Express after the name of great Indian saint Swami Vivekananda.

Vivek Express (15906 Dn, 15905 Up) will travel with 18 coaches: 6 general (unreserved) second class coaches, 7 second class sleeper coaches, 1 two-tier air-conditioned coach, 2 three-tier air-conditioned coaches, 2 SLR’s, and one pantry car. Fifty-two (52) scheduled stops along the Vivek Express route will bypass many of the largest cities before ending at the southern most tip of India, also known as Cape Comorin. View Entire Vivek Express Schedule

Fares have been set as follows: General Rs 381, Sleeper Rs 673, AC 3-tier Rs 1878, AC 2-tier Rs 2573. Tourists of India will find this new route to be an exceptional value if not a once in a lifetime opportunity to see parts of India previously thought unaffordable.

Hanuman Temple, South India

Aside from Ganesh, Hanuman is one of the most easily recognizable Hindu gods to travelers of India. He is known as the Monkey God, and his popularity in India is something to behold. Thousands of temples devoted to Hanuman are scattered throughout the country. He is the Hindu deity known for courage, strength and devotion. Followers pray to Hanuman to remove sufferings and also to fulfill wishes.

Why the Monkey god? Physically he is half human and half monkey. Many images exist of Lord Hanuman, the most common is of a monkey head atop a strong, very well built human body with two arms and a long tail. He is always with his mace (weapon). Despite his monkey features, he behaves as a human. It is believed Hanuman has unlimited powers, able to fly as well as change the size of his body as needed.

Hanuman played an important part in the Ramayana (great Indian epic). He is depicted as the epitome of loyalty as well as being the wisest and strongest of all the monkeys. He is a devotee of Lord Rama, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, whom he helped in the battle against the demon king Ravana.

Travelers of India will discover small ancillary temples near Vishnu temples because of their relationship in the Ramayana. Many stand alone temples devoted solely to Hanuman also exist and are believed to keep an area free of evil. More common are small shrines or mini temples which pervade city neighborhoods and villages. These sites devoted to the Hindu monkey god Hanumun are easily distinguishable by the bright orange paint covering his face and/or body.

Small village shrine for Hanuman

Hanuman’s popularity and celebrated status as a Hindu deity have aided in the complex relationship Indians have with the menacing langur monkeys. These pesky creatures, also known as the Hanuman monkey, can be relentless in their search for food. Many tourist sights and livable areas of India are overrun by the langur monkey. Indians never physically attack a monkey. When shouting and swatting don’t work to keep monkeys away, metal cages are often built around patios, windows and other living spaces. The death of a monkey by way of a moving vehicle is treated as a great loss. Typically a sheet or other covering is used to lie over a still body.

Other names used to reference Hanuman:

Prasannanjayena- cheerful mood

Dhayananjaney- meditative mood

Veeranjaneya- ferocious mood

Bhaktanjaneya- devoted mood

Anjaneya or Anajaniputra- after his mother’s name Anjana

Ramduta- messenger of Rama