I always carry a debit card (Visa), my regular credit card (Visa) and of course, my Skymiles American Express (gotta keep racking up frequent flier miles). What works best for each traveler is a personal choice. Below are some helpful tips to cover in preparation of an Indian adventure:

1. Carry a Visa or Mastercard issued credit/debit card. Amex and Discover just don’t have the coverage in India as the other two behemoths.

2. If you can’t get a credit card because of a bad credit history then sign up for a pre-paid credit card. These are widely available through online offers but read the fine print before applying. Applicants send an opening payment which becomes the “spending limit”. At the end of the month a statement is sent, payment is due for any purchases, and the monies received will be credited back to your spending limit much like a regular credit card. This will not only help to improve a low credit score but ensure you have an alternative form of payment beyond cash.

3. At the very least bring a debit card to India. ATM’s are sprawled across the country making cash withdrawals easy both in terms of access and not having to haggle on exchange rates. Your bank will automatically assign an exchange rate based on the open market. A service charge ($2-$5 on average) will be deducted from your bank account so withdraw the daily maximum amount to avoid multiple fees from multiple smaller withdrawals.

TIP: Avoid using debit cards at currency exchanges where additional fees may be incurred on top of ATM service charges.

4. Carry a back-up. Travelers with one card can be stuck should an issuing bank have to cancel accounts abruptly for security reasons. Bring a credit card and separate debit card with your trip’s full budget needs available.

5. India’s ATM PIN system is set to accept four (4) digits only at this time. International travelers will need to change PIN codes from anything more than a standard 4 digit code to prevent declined transactions.

6. Make photocopies of any credit/debit cards before traveling. This should include a front and back copy of each card. Block out the expiration date, personal photo and signature line. Leave a copy with friends, family or spouse and remember to bring a personal copy which can be stored inside your luggage. If you ever lose a credit card or suspect your number has been stolen even though you hold the card, it can be canceled right away. The majority of problems with the cancellation of credit cards occur during travel internationally. Many travelers forget issuer names and numbers wasting valuable time when it could be at your finger tips.

6.5 Consider carrying credit card information in digital form while you travel. Some USB flash drives let you encrypt data, protecting your photocopied information from prying eyes. If you lose your credit card while abroad, simply decrypt the file on a computer. You’ll be able to see a copy of your card and access important information.

7. If traveling with a partner or spouse, stay one step ahead with separate credit cards issued in separate names. Many couples have one account number issued with cards for each name. If one person loses their card, the other card by default is also canceled as they share the same account number. Request separate account numbers for individual cards from your issuing bank.

8. Inform your credit card issuing bank of your travel plans including dates of travel and destination. Some banks and credit unions cut off credit cards that are used 6 or more times in one day, to try and stop thieves from using stolen cards. Communicating with your bank beforehand can alleviate any reactivation hassles.

9. Be aware of conversion fees that many banks assess to convert charges in foreign currencies to dollars. Some banks do and some banks don’t charge a fee, generally 1% of the purchase amount. If you carry several cards, check with the issuers to see which one offers the best deal on foreign currency conversion.

10. Avoid merchant currency conversions. Store owners will offer to convert purchases into your home currency but charge a fee as high as 7%, pocketing the difference without your knowledge. Have charges processed in the local currency to receive the best exchange rate as noted above in tip #3.

Bonus Tips

11. If the magnetic swipe stripe doesn’t work while paying at merchant establishments, don’t keep swiping. Credit cards are blocked after 3 attempts. Avoid the hassle of having to call your bank, explain the situation and reinstate your card by asking the merchant to manually enter the card number. The option to manually issue a charge is usually located at bottom side of machine or by simply entering in the account number. Thanks goes to Shivi Kanwar at www.aapoaapshimla.com for this tip which I was unaware.

#CreditSmartIndia

I’m not a good flyer. Friends and partners have been scarred with semi-permanent fingernail marks from turbulent flights. Even the most comfortable flyers have poked me at some point in a flight and asked me to relax as my anxiety was even spooking their nerves. Over the years I’ve learned the benefit of wearing an eye mask, I’ve learned how soft classical music playing in a headset can lull one to sleep, and I’ve honed how to flirt with the right flight attendant (man or woman) to get little extras. Although I morph into a cocoon-like state as soon as the cabin door closes until the plane makes it’s last revolution toward the gate, I’m still well aware of conversations and actions around me.

Once while flying from Amsterdam to Delhi in business class, a group of Indian men had taken a rather large position in the section reserved for just 36 seats. You could say they were loud. You could also say they were obnoxious, running the flight attendants here, there, hell everywhere, for this and that. They stood in the aisles blocking traffic by fellow passengers. They ingested liquid encouragement as easily as fish to water. They laughed, they argued. They snored, they hacked. They were in effect, the consummate annoying Indian.

As luck would have it, I was seated next to the group’s ugly duckling. He was older, maybe mid-4o’s, rotund in size with a balding head partially hidden by a terrible comb over. Unlike the other men in the boisterous group, my seatmate was quiet, shy in fact, and knew very little English. I believe this was also his first time on a plane. He fumbled to find his seatbelt before turning his attention to the battery of buttons inset along his armrest. As I settled into my normal flight routine of setting up a trash bag for the inevitable scraps collected during 8 hours, to taking my shoes off and placing them in the provided shoe bag, I began to notice this gentle man was ardently watching my every move.

Like a child struggling to take his first steps, my seatmate couldn’t figure how to recline his seat nor how to find his tray table let alone find his personal TV screen. This man’s bewilderment at first class flying had created an entertaining sideshow with just one audience member. Apparently the rest of our cabin was also wrapped in their personal cocoons, including this man’s fellow travelers, because it was me who felt his finger tap my shoulder not once, not twice, yes you guessed where this was going…

His English and my Hindi didn’t allow for a mutual verbal communication point so we relied on time tested gestures and finger pointing. Two words he could speak in crystal clear English were government and minister, the latter said while pointing to the ringleader of this group. Ahhhh! I thought. Two words never illustrated more of a point. It all made perfect sense to me; the entitled behavior, the excessive commentary, this was a select group of government workers accompanying a minister somewhere out of the homeland and back. My curiosity to ask where, what, and why was boiling. But then a more realistic question hit me. As India struggles to provide for all it’s faithful residents, why are 10 Indian government officials traveling abroad in business class at a clip of nearly $8,000 a head? Mind you I was there only by the diligent scheming of frequent flier points earned here and there. The answer was simple: Why not Sir?

Finally the shy meager man’s attention turned toward me. He asked, “You do what?” Oh boy, I thought. This was a test. He would expect something glamorous given our position in the plane. “I’m in the import/export business,” I said. “Oh!” he exclaimed, as if I had said something profound.

Miraculously he sprang to his feet, this time knowing exactly how to disengage his seatbelt, rushing to his boss’ side. Hindi Hindi Hindi import export Hindi Hindi. Oh shit. What had I just gotten myself into? Why did I say that? I didn’t really lie. I was in fact importing myself into India with every intention of exporting myself back out in a few weeks.

The minister wanted to meet me, well more like my flunky seat fellow wanted to impress his employer by introducing me to the minister. Why didn’t I just stick to my routine? “Cocoon! Cocoon!” I was shouting in my head.

I approached the minister with trepidation, my once unsure travel companion now confidently standing behind me. Hindi Hindi Hindi Hindi import export USA Hindi Hindi. And just like that, the minister looked an me, shrugged his shoulders and turned his back to me. I had been dismissed like a piece of paper in the toilet or the latest Adam Sandler movie.

“Ladies and Gentleman, we’ve begun our final descent into Delhi, please…”

Never mind him. I had shoes to put back on and trash to collect. It was time to land that bird and get me properly imported back into what I do best, being a tourist.

Aside from Ganesh, Hanuman is one of the most easily recognizable Hindu gods to travelers of India. He is known as the Monkey God, and his popularity in India is something to behold. Thousands of temples devoted to Hanuman are scattered throughout the country. He is the Hindu deity known for courage, strength and devotion. Followers pray to Hanuman to remove sufferings and also to fulfill wishes.

Why the Monkey god? Physically he is half human and half monkey. Many images exist of Lord Hanuman, the most common is of a monkey head atop a strong, very well built human body with two arms and a long tail. He is always with his mace (weapon). Despite his monkey features, he behaves as a human. It is believed Hanuman has unlimited powers, able to fly as well as change the size of his body as needed.

Hanuman played an important part in the Ramayana (great Indian epic). He is depicted as the epitome of loyalty as well as being the wisest and strongest of all the monkeys. He is a devotee of Lord Rama, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, whom he helped in the battle against the demon king Ravana.

Travelers of India will discover small ancillary temples near Vishnu temples because of their relationship in the Ramayana. Many stand alone temples devoted solely to Hanuman also exist and are believed to keep an area free of evil. More common are small shrines or mini temples which pervade city neighborhoods and villages. These sites devoted to the Hindu monkey god Hanumun are easily distinguishable by the bright orange paint covering his face and/or body.

Hanuman’s popularity and celebrated status as a Hindu deity have aided in the complex relationship Indians have with the menacing langur monkeys. These pesky creatures, also known as the Hanuman monkey, can be relentless in their search for food. Many tourist sights and livable areas of India are overrun by the langur monkey. Indians never physically attack a monkey. When shouting and swatting don’t work to keep monkeys away, metal cages are often built around patios, windows and other living spaces. The death of a monkey by way of a moving vehicle is treated as a great loss. Typically a sheet or other covering is used to lie over a still body.

Other names used to reference Hanuman:

Prasannanjayena- cheerful mood

Dhayananjaney- meditative mood

Veeranjaneya- ferocious mood

Bhaktanjaneya- devoted mood

Anjaneya or Anajaniputra- after his mother’s name Anjana

Ramduta- messenger of Rama

Below are the steps to take for making a claim, and get reimbursed for expenses related to lost or delayed baggage at the airport:

What Do I Do?

1. Don’t Panic

Although you are in a foreign country, the airline employees who will assist in filing a claim and retrieving any lost luggage are multi-lingual. Not only do they speak English, they speak Hindi and several other regional languages of India. This allows you to speak with nearly any contact involved in locating your baggage.

2. Don’t Get Angry

Remember you are in India, a land that for all intents and purposes is a peaceful country. Locals may raise their voice, wobble their heads and argue a point ad naseum, yet they don’t take kindly to the same behavior from tourists. Keep your hands off your hips, don’t cross your arms in a closed position against your chest, speak in a calm manner, don’t point, don’t throw your other bags around in disgust and don’t swear.

3. Find an Airline Representative

Because all international flights arrive within a 4 hour window at the 5 largest airports of India, numerous airline representatives can easily be found within the baggage claim area. Locate a representative from the airline flight to India which you were last a passenger on. I.E. If traveling from the USA  on Delta, but transferred to Air France in Paris, you will be looking for an Air France representative. Ask him/her to assist you with the lost luggage procedure.

How Does it Work?

1. Complete a Claim Form

The airline representative will get you to the proper lost luggage desk. From here you will be aided in the completion of a Lost Baggage Claim. Besides general contact information, have the following information handy:

Bag: Color, Style, Brand

Combination to lock (If applicable)

Flight #, Flight Date, Class of service (Coach/Business) & Ticket #

Luggage Claim Tag (Provided from the originating airport ticket desk)

Temporary address in India (Hotel, Guest House, Friend or family home)

Temporary contact #

2. After the Form

Once the form is completed, ensure that any temporary contact information is correct. This should be the location you will be for the next 48 hours. Individual airlines operate one flight to India per day. Your luggage, if located, will therefore not arrive at the earliest until the following day. The airline will courier the bag(s) to the temporary address. If you are in transit upon arrival into India, lost luggage will be transferred to the next location and couriered (if possible) to the temporary address on file at the final destination.

3. Ask Questions

This is the best time to obtain as much information as possible from the representative as passengers cannot reenter the airport after exiting. Ask for a card and/or any contact information of the representative as well as the local office. Ask for a follow up plan if lost luggage does not arrive on the next flight. Get a copy of ALL paperwork and keep in a safe place.

Now What?

1. Get Some Sleep

You will be given a small kit containing some very essential items such as a toothbrush, toothpaste, comb, and other misc toiletries. You may be able to obtain further items from the hotel front desk (if applicable).

2. Go Shopping, Save Receipts

Save any receipts for items you bought as a result of lost or delayed luggage. This would include clothing, toiletries, accommodation, food, etc.

3. Retrieve & Check Luggage

Luggage will be delivered directly to the temporary address on file. If staying at a hotel or other accommodation, the courier will drop at the lobby. Ensure all items are inside the bag immediately. You will need to file an additional claim for any missing items.

My luggage was delivered at the time promised directly to the hotel lobby in Delhi. It was shrink-wrapped for security purposes which aided in keeping the contents safe.

4. Get Paid

Once you arrive home you should submit your receipts along with a brief letter explaining any purchases as a result of the lost or delayed luggage. A contact address will be provided with the paperwork as well as a time line for submission.

I submitted receipts for clothing (new undershirt, shirt and socks) plus two nights at a local hotel since my plans were not to stay in Delhi. Within 10 days of submission a letter from Air France was received confirming my expenses. Within 4 days from this letter, a reimbursement check for $197 arrived.

What Can I Do To Prevent This From Happening to Me?

The reasons a bag may be lost or delayed are numerous. The following are suggestions on how to best prepare in case of a delay:

1. Mark Your Bag Well

-Use a baggage strap to help your luggage stick out from the crowd.

-Place a baggage ID inside any checked bags.

2. Pack Smart

Pack any essential toiletries needed as well as a change of clothes in a carry-on bag. Remember to follow the airline security rules for liquids and sharp objects. All prescribed medications should be packed in this bag to avoid any medical complications. All electronics should be included in this bag. Money, credit cards, ID and any travel documents should also accompany this bag. Make a list of all items you must have if your luggage was lost or delayed upon arrival to India. These items should be in a airline size approved carry-on bag.

3. Be Prepared

Have all contact information readily available upon arrival to India. This includes any travel agency contact person, hotel, driver, or onward flight information.

4. Don’t Worry

Really, don’t. It won’t do any good and your bag will most likely arrive the following day.

An idea was born that international tourists need separate personnel to look after their needs and safety, as well as manage tourist inquires and complaints, all while ensuring that the language barrier doesn’t hamper individual’s enjoyment or security while in India. Although still a novel concept in many parts of India, travelers can find dedicated Tourist Police officers stationed at many of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. Officers are dressed in uniform with ID cards and badges which clearly distinguish themselves from other police officers.

What Do They Do?

1. Avoid harassment to the tourist by touts.
2. Help tourist in getting transport and lodging at appropriate rate and without much hassle at Railway Station, Airports Bus Terminals, important tourist places, malls etc.
3. Provide safety and security against cheats and bag lifters etc. at these places.
4. Contain crime like pick pocketing, eve-teasing (harassment), drugging etc.
5. Provide information related to the city or region and other adjoining tourist places.

What Can They Help Tourists With?

1. Guide the tourist about the location of tourist places, distance and available transport to reach desired destination.
2. Help tourist in procuring tickets for museums, resorts, transports, movies and also to protect them from touts and black marketers.
3. Ensure that no peddlers, jewelers, shopkeepers, touts, cheats and beggars etc. harass them.
4. Help tourists in general problem solving regarding their stay in the city.
5. Guide tourists about local of Art and Culture, Shops, Banks, Phones etc.
6. Guide tourists on local conditions of law and order, security and hazards and places of medical help.
7. Guide tourists on matters relating to passport, visas, exchange of currency, and immigration issues.
8. Help sorting out matters like sickness, loss of theft of belonging, assault or involvement in criminal cases.
9. Guide with local custom and tradition.

Where Can I Find Tourist Police?

Know of other Tourist Police locations? Drop me a line at scchopp@fullstopindia.com.

Agra, Uttar Pradesh

1. Taj Mahal
2. Agra Fort

Bangalore, Karnataka (Green Police)

Locations vary

Chandigarh

1. Sukhna Lake
2. Rock Garden
3. Rose Garden
4. Shopping Plaza-17
5. Railway Station
6. Airport
7. ISBT-17
8. ISBT-43

Chennai, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Delhi

1. Airport- Indira Gandhi International T1, T2, T3
2. New Delhi Railway Station
3. Hazarat Nizammuddin Railway Station
4. Raj Ghat
5. Red Fort
6. Qutub Minar
7. Palika Bazar
8. Janpath
9. India Gate
10. Pahar Ganj (Railway Station Side)

Deoghar, Jharkhand

1. Baidyanath Dham Temple
2. Nandan Pahar
3. Satsang Ashram
4. Naulakha Mandir
5. Rama Krishna Mission
6. Trikut Parvat
7. Rikhia Ashram

Goa

1. Calangute
2. Miramar
3. Vagator

Jaipur, Rajasthan

Locations vary

Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh

Locations vary

Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Kochi, Kerala

1. Vasco da Gama Square
2. Kamala Kadav
3. Prince street
4. Fort Kochi beach
5. St.Francis Church
6. Jewish Synagogue
7. Dutch Palace
8. Jews Street
9. Mattanchery Boat Jetty
10. Marine Drive Ernakulam
11. Bolgatty Palace
12. KSRTC Bus Stand
13. Ernakulam Junction Railway Station
14. North Railway Station

Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Kolkata, West Bengal (Paschim Banga)

1. Howrah Station
2. Sealdah Station
3. Airport- Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International
4. Alipore Zoo
5. Kalighat Temple
6. Victoria Memorial
7. Park Street
8. New Market
9. Sudder Street

Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Mumbai, Maharashtra

Locations vary

Mysore, Karnataka (Green Police)

Locations vary

Rameswaram, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Udhagamandalam, Tamil Nadu

Locations vary

Easily my new favorite hotel in Delhi, Hotel Shipra changed my perceptions of what a budget hotel in this city would be. Clean, spacious and comfortable rooms can be found here as well as the needed amenities such as room service, laundry and luggage assistance. Located in the bustling area of Laxmi Nagar in the Northeastern part of Delhi, consider this a place for long term stays or travelers on a budget. Although not located near many of the popular tourist sites of the city, my criteria for this stay was totally based on cost.

Guests reach the Delhi hotel lobby by crossing a narrow lane which runs directly in front of the building. Mind the vehicle and scooter traffic that speeds past this road with little warning in addition to heavy foot traffic. A rent-a-cop stands guard round the clock as well as playing doorman for arriving and departing guests. The lobby is covered in dark woods and fabrics. A small seating area is provided near the front desk. Off the right rear of the lobby is the on-site restaurant offering Indian food and Continental meal service. Skip the overpriced fare as a simple breakfast of two boiled eggs, gobi parantha and chai cost me Rs 192. Instead, walk down to the VS3 Mall just a few blocks from the hotel. Here you can find multiple US fast food joints such as KFC, McDonalds and Pizza Hut. Indian sit down fare is ready available around every corner.

Back in the hotel, the cheaper room option held twin beds. I was pleasantly surprised with the mini fridge, A/C ( not used), ceiling fan and 100+ channels on TV. The bathroom had full time running hot water including a shower and Western toilet. Now, the room did not have a lot of charm but it was functional, clean, and secure. Cost with tax was Rs 2149/night or $48/night.

A Metro station with the overhead line running directly in front of the cheap New Delhi hotel is just a few blocks distance. Taxis are abundant and easy to flag down although most needs can be met by a short walk in either direction. For internet run across the busy multi-lane road to the cyber cafe located on the second level. Rs 13 buys you an hour of service, cheapest I’ve found yet!

UPDATE 6 February 2012: Shipra Laxmi Nagar appears to be permanently closed. A remodel project which began more than a year ago has yet to be completed, and any signs of reopening are not to be found.

Itinerary

Start in Bangalore (Bengaluru), Karnataka, toward Hassan. Short stop at Sravanabelagola. Continue to Hassan for overnight stay. Explore Belur and Halebid (Halebidu) the next day. Return to Hassan for overnight stay before heading back to Bangalore.

Transportation

Car and Driver- Individual costs vary based on type of vehicle (compact, SUV, A/C, non A/C) and amount of passengers.

Cost: Starting at Rs 1000 and up from Bangalore. Tip: Cut costs by starting service from Hassan.

Train- Yesvantpur Kawr Express (#16515) is the best option. Depart Bangalore at 7:30 am, arrive Hassan at 11:40 am. Service runs Monday, Wednesday, and Friday only. Hire a car and driver from here or use KSRTC local buses to move about.

Cost: AC Chair Car Rs 293 or Second Seating Rs 93.

Bus- KSTDC offers a daily bus tour of Belur, Halebid and Sravanabelagola. Depart Bangalore at 6:30 am, return to Bangalore at 10 pm.

Cost: Rs 935 AC Volvo; Rs 825 Non AC

Room

Most tourists opt to stay overnight in Hassan where a plethora of dining choices exist as does some form of night life in the way of market crawling or pick-up cricket games. Belur and Halebid each have one recommendable hotel closer to the temples. I found myself at Southern Star Hotel in Hassan’s newer urban sprawl neighborhood. It’s within easy walking distance of the main square, restaurants, shopping and temples. Rooms are spacious and clean, bathrooms come with full time running water, and satellite TV. Advertised WiFi didn’t work during my stay. Breakfast included!

Cost: Rs 3000 per night not including tips to bellboys and waiters (breakfast).

Food

Lunch between Bangalore and Sravanabelagola was found at one of my favorite places, the highway dhaba. Chicken briyani, palak paneer, dal makhani and roti was far too much for myself, travel partner and driver. We did our best to make a dent. The final tab of Rs 376 was a bit steep until you factor in clean toilets, fan cooled seating and a relaxing atmosphere among potted greenery. Our big lunch was enough to carry us through dinner and into the next morning.

We all enjoyed a fresh coconut water as a snack outside the entrance to Vindhyagiri Hill in Sravanabelagola. Rs 10 x 3.

Breakfast included with hotel room was more than enough to start the day. However, a small and very popular neighborhood food stall is just a few blocks away serving delicious piping hot chai. This is a fun place to stop after an early morning walk. Two cups and a boxed mango juice: Rs 20.

For lunch, my travel partner plus driver all shared veg palav, puri, roti, South India thali + kheer for just Rs 150 (tip included) at Vishnu Regency. It was more than we could finish.

I decided to splurge at Hotel Ashok adjacent Hassan’s central business district. Upscale and clearly more expensive than my hotel, every bite of paneer tikka, dal makhani, naan, and gulab jamun was more delicious than the last. Total bill + tip: Rs 500.

Sightseeing

Why spend so much on food and hotel on this trip? Because the actual sights are all free to enter. Hindu and Jain temples never carry an entry fee except occasional camera and mandatory shoe stall fees. The Hassan Hoysala Circuit is 100% free of any entry fees.

Sravanabelagola: I did pay Rs 10 to have two pairs of shoes stored during my exploration. An additional Rs 10 donation was given inside the temple.

Belur: A tour guide is highly recommended. My cost was Rs 300 total for two people, for two hours of service. His offer to ride along to Halebid was declined, a savings of at least an additional Rs 200 + Rs 50 lunch. Oh, and don’t forget about the Rs 10 fee to use the lamp inside Chennakesava Temple, and another Rs 5 for a shoe storage tip.

Halebid: 100% free. I took my chances and left my shoes outside the temple entrance. Skipping the archaeological museum was an additional savings given the majority of artifacts on display can be seen from outside.

Miscellaneous

What did I leave out? Since I traveled by car and driver, costs associated with tuk tuk rides or bus fare between towns were not factored in.

Additional costs incurred but not mandatory: Rs 150 book on Belur, Rs 500 carved stone figurines bought outside Chennakesava Temple, Rs 50 for coke and water along the way, and Rs 10 for a temple donation at Kedareswara Temple (not on package tour itineraries).

Total Cost

In total I spent Rs 7761 ($146 USD) for two days, two people. This includes lodging but not transportation costs. Need it cheaper? Several budget accommodations are available in Hassan. Rely on KSTDC buses for transportation. Skip sit-down restaurants for cheaper yet filling chaat vendors.

I only found out about Love Travel Guides the best way a traveler discovers anything, by accident. The books were a recommendation by Mariellen Ward (founder and writer of BreatheDreamGo) to an avid reader who sought Mariellen’s advice on traveling India. The reader was so happy with the guide books she mentioned them in a post I happened to stumble across on Facebook. I quickly ordered Love Delhi and Love Jaipur, Rajasthan, unsure of whether each book was part journal, part guide or all journal or…what?.

Days later I received the hand books in the mail. Two unassuming, uncomplicated, and utterly brilliant guides were directing me, a traveler of India since 2005, to unknown places in two cities I thought were previously well discovered. Each book is divided into 8 categories with topics such as Must’s (What to know and do), Delicious (where to eat and drink), Adventurous (sightseeing of the common, and not so common kind), and Essential (transportation, communication and more), all designed to be the anti mass tourist book. Love Travel claims, “using this guide is like being chaperoned by a good friend.” They couldn’t be more right. And while the topics aren’t groundbreaking, the recommendations inside each category are atypical of what Lonely Planet and the rest of the lot share ad naseum. Love Travel Guides attack a city the way a local would from a morning stroll through the flower gardens of Jaipur to a jewelry pilgrimage during mid-day before ending the night with drinks at a palace hotel before moving on the dinner at a local’s favorite restaurant. Additional sightseeing for surrounding areas are included relative to the main city covered.

Activities for guys, activities for gals, this is definitely not the journal I feared. Each book is handmade in India of hand-loom khadi covers. A sturdy elastic band attached to the back cover can be used as a bookmark, a nice feature given these guidebooks are not suited for dissection as are the commercial books I have recommended be ripped up by state for easier packing. Absent are the usual full color photos replaced by two color illustrations. Readers become explorers free from spoon fed entries of the usual sights and sounds of India using Love Travel Guides. Of course the biggest and best tourist sights are mentioned, but in a way as to say, after you’ve finished a gastro tour through the old market, and lazily picking through old book shops or renting bicycles for a spin around Connaught Place, you might want to drop by Red Fort. Trust me, you won’t see that on any other itinerary soon.

Anyone thinking about a trip to India will be feel as if they’re already on Indian soil after turning back the front cover. Don’t let the $40 price tag deter you; travelers of all budgets can make use of Love Delhi, Love Jaipur, Rajasthan, Love Mumbai, and Love Bengaluru.

Read more about Mariellen Ward and travel that changes you at BreatheDreamGo.com.

A total of 22 different popular tourist sights are available for download. Of the 22 Chhattisgarh travel brochures online, 9 are offered in both Hindi and English languages, 8 are available only in Hindi, and 5 are offered in English only. The most popular sightseeing destinations are highlighted along with nearby attractions, recommended accommodations, and personalized information on how to reach the region.

India state tourism board travel brochures consistently highlight important local sightseeing places which popular brand name guide books such as Lonely Planet and Rough Guide overlook. Foreign travelers and Indian nationals looking for the path less taken will find fresh ideas in the CTB guides. With online downloads, prospective trips can be planned and budgeted from the comfort of home. No more waiting to reach a tourist info center only to find you’ve already missed something special.

Download all 22 here, and let’s go visit Chhattisgarh!

Background

Chennakesava Temple (Keshava Temple) is said to have been commissioned in 1116 by King Vishnuvardhana in memory of his victory over the neighboring Cholas. Another theory exists which states the temple was built when King Vishnuvardhana converted from Jainism to Vaishnavism, as advised by Guru Sri Ramanujacharyaand.

It took more than 100 years to complete the exceptionally large and lavish temple which boasts a new style of architecture for which the Hoysala’s became well known. They conceived their shrines as star shaped structures rather than the traditional cubical form. Chennakesava Temple is a exemplary example of this new found style of building, and remains a premiere Hoysala monument. Students of architecture as well as historians are marveled by it’s form. The temple is currently a proposed UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Temple Complex

Entry into Chennakesava Temple complex is via a seven-storey gopuram which can be seen well in advance of arrival. Just one entrance gateway allows visitors and followers to pass through the massive stone wall surrounding the collection of temples.

Chennakeshava Temple stands directly opposite the entrance gopuram and instantly draws tourists forward. Three distinct pieces of architecture can be seen within the soapstone monument: A platform, an open hall and the shrine. First, the platform or jagati, stands several feet tall from ground level. It is an essential part of the over-all design of the monument. Eight steps lead to the outer platform ring flanked by miniature shrines. This platform provides a walkway around the exterior of the temple. An additional eight steps lead into the the second part of the monument, the open hall or mandapa. Traditionally mandapas are open column hallways which extend from the inner shrine. In the case of Chennakesava Temple, stone pillars protrude from a parapet wall about 6 feet high to hold up the roof. Ornate stone screens were later installed between the roof and the parapet walls thus giving the illusion of walking into an enclosed room. Lavish sculptural decorations and depictions, some of them extremely delicate, span the hall. Finally, the larger than usual inner pavilion or Navaranga is finished in stunning fashion. Forty monolithic pillars in either stellar or circular shape are covered in hand carved motifs. The presiding deity is a 6 foot manifestation of Lord Krishna or Keshava, an avatar of Lord Vishnu for whom the temple is dedicated.

One of the many architectural highlights of Chennakesava Temple is the 42 bracketed figurines called Madanikas or celestial nymphs (figures of women in ritual dancing poses) attached between the roof and top section of pillar along the exterior walls. Of the 42 Madanikas, 38 are found outside while the remaining 4 figurines are located within the stunning Navaranga ceiling. The detail rich carved stone figures are said to be exclusive to Belur. Unfortunately they are also susceptible to weather. Time has worn away many of the finest details while some of the carvings are missing substantial pieces altogether.

The other major architectural highlight of Chennakesava Temple are the rows of friezes along the outer temple wall. The lowest frieze depicts 650 charging elephants, no two shapes alike. Their presence symbolizes stability, tremendous strength and are considered the weight lifters of the temple. Above the elephants are lions, symbolizing courage. Horses are shown on the next row, a symbol of speed. The next row of bead garlands represents beauty. The fifth row shows small figures of men and women dancing and playing musical instruments. Finally a sixth row depicts ladies in various poses.

Garuda Stambha

This pillar, customarily found in front of many Vishnu temples, stands adjacent the Keshava Temple. Garuda, Lord Vishnu’s carrier, once could be seen atop the stone pillar. Weather has damaged the figure beyond recognition. Tour guides are particularly quick to demonstrate how the stone pillar is seemingly floating above the rock base. To illustrate this marvel, paper is pulled between the two surfaces. And yes, it really does appear to be floating.
 

Kappe Chennigaray Temple

Similar in style to Kesava Temple, while less opulent, is Kappe Chennigaray Temple. The two cell temple is situated south of the main temple and also rests on an elevated platform. Far less detail can be seen along the stone walls and pillars aside from a beautiful 6 1/2 foot high sculpture of Chennakesava inside. Bracket figures can also be seen attached to four navaranga pillars, as found within the Keshava Temple, along with Hoysala emblems and lotus medallions.
 

Rama Temple

Far less attention has been afforded to the somewhat dilapidated Rama Temple devoted to the 7th incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Few architectural details can be found inside or outside the drab stone building constructed with a traditional open air mandapa. The elevated platform from which the temple is built upon is a fraction in height compared to the other neighboring temples. Large sun soaked sections of the stone platform base are used by temple volunteers to dry fruits and other foods. Few tourists venture this far from the main attraction.

Saumyanayaki Temple

This temple located south-west of the Keshava Temple blends of a mixture of architectural elements seen at both the Rama and Keshava Temple. An elongated mandapa extends from the inner sanctum over the elevated platform and staircase onto the stone courtyard. Stone columns similar to Rama Temple’s simplicity can be seen holding up the furthest extension which was later added to the original design. Circular monolithic columns support the roof section covering the elevated platform entrance. A shikhara can be seen only from a side view as it is blocked from the height of it’s mandapa. A miniature shrine is attached to the tower above the mandapa, topped with elegant carvings of peacocks and lotus flowers.

Marriage Hall

Veera Narayana Temple

Small, compact and eye catching, Veera Narayana Temple exterior is covered in gorgeous carvings of both Vishnu and Shiva faiths. Fifty-nine large images can be seen along the outer wall including Vishnu, Shiva, Brahma, Ganesha, Parvati, and Saraswati. Also sitting on a slightly elevated platform, this is the only temple of it’s kind within Chennakesava Temple complex.
 
 
 

Andal Temple

A temple for female gods. Andal Temple is devoted to the goddess Andal, also known as Ranganayaki Temple. It’s compact elevated platform is adorned with friezes of elephants, scroll work and scenes from the Puranas (ancient Hindu literature). An open-air mandapa, supported by circular columns, is attached to the inner sanctum. Barely visible is a squat shikhara above the inner shrine. What really captures visitor’s attention is a row of 31 large deity images.

What The Guidebooks Won’t Tell You

Be sure to look for the Hoysala royal emblem upon entering Chennakesava Temple. This emblem is a trademark of all Hoysala Dynasty temples, found at the entrance of almost all their temples. The words Hoy Sa’la mean “strike Sa’la!”, hence the carved image is of Sa’la, the legendary head of the Hoysala Dynasty, killing the tiger. It is from this real life act that the dynasty name, Hoysala, originated.

The shikhara or tower above the inner sanctum of Chennakesava Temple is gone. No detail is given as to why the common architectural feature of most Hindu temples is missing.

Flat stones make up the entire temple couryard surface. Glaring South India sun bakes the stone to an unforgiving temperature upon which bare feet singe quickly. Walking between numerous temples is an exercise in short sprints between shaded area to shaded area. Red colored runners made of jute or some other natural fiber can be seen extending from the entrance to Chennakesava Temple, and then around the upper platform base. These mats are to be used to avoid the hot stones. Unfortunately they are not provided beyond Chennakesava Temple.

Why Visit Chennakesava Temple

Few major Hoysala sites remain as well kept as that of Belur Chennakesava Temple. Architectural details found here are some of the finest examples of Hoysala Dynasty. Numerous books have been written delving into specific artists, their techniques used and the relevance of included images. However tourists can get an abbreviated version through pick-up guides that humorously walk visitors through a brief history of the temple while pointing out it’s most important features. Plan on a minimum of 1 hour to visit the temple bearing in mind some tourists spend days here.

What to Know

Temple tank of Chennakesava Temple

Admission is free and open to people of all faiths. Cameras are allowed without charge but may you may be asked not to photograph certain deities.

Puja ceremonies run daily at 9 am, 3 pm, and 7:30 pm.

Pick-up guides are available upon entry. Foreign languages beside English must be prearranged through a travel agent. Avoid any guide offers outside the temple and arrange a fee upfront for ALL people in your party. A general guideline would be no less than Rs 100, no more than Rs 250 per person up to 2 people. Additional small fees inside the inner shrine are requested (and can be declined) to operate lights which illuminate ceiling carvings.

Shoes are not allowed inside and may left at an attended shoe stall. Beware of outrageous fees assessed by attendants spoiled by the wealth of temple visitors. Rates of more than Rs 10 per pair of shoes is laughable and should not be paid. If in doubt, leave your shoes alongside the pile locals use for free just outside the main entrance.