Halebid’s Hoysalewara Temple and Belur’s Chennakesava Temple are artistically similar in many fashions. Each of the Hindu temples is built on a star shaped platform with small shrines flanking steps toward temple doors; each temple is adorned by multiple layers of stone friezes depicting horses, lions, elephants, and garlands topped by larger panels of carved deities; and each temple has unique stone screen covered mandapas. What differs at Hoysalewara Temple (and again for those that start at this location before moving on to Belur you’ll want a guide to walk you through the intricacies of Hoysala craftsmanship) is the open space surrounding this complex. Where Chennakesava Temple is entirely engulfed within a massive wall and block courtyards, the Hoysala temple of Halebid is gorgeously set upon a grassy open field butting against a small lake, all under the shade of swaying palm trees and manicured foliage.

Eighty seven years in the making, construction is believed to have started around 1121, yet this awe inspiring temple devoted to Lord Shiva was never completed before the Hoysala Dynasty fell victim to invasion. Intricate carvings have somehow escaped centuries worth of sun, rain and pollution albeit much damage can be spotted.

An archaeological museum within the temple complex houses hundred of Hoysala stone carvings. An entry fee is required, however, unless you fancy yourself a historian, the bulk of what is to see can be viewed simply by walking toward the lake. Many of the artifacts are in plain view behind a ramshackle wire fence. Be careful with cameras as photography is said to be prohibited.

The only other reason to stop at the museum’s small ticket booth is to peruse a thin but rewarding collection of books for sale. Most are written in Kannada while a few titles can be found in English. Finding an attendant for purchases is an exercise in patience.

A statue of Nandi the Bull sits quietly at the end of a path near the lake’s edge. Tourist, tout and monkey free, this is a terrific spot for photos, prayer or lunch. Wash basins and toilets are located adjacent the museum.

Another extra-curricular activity after completing your sightseeing is stopping for a picnic lunch under any number of shade-rich trees near the temple. You’ll find several families with the same idea as it’s a great way to enjoy some time (especially with kids) before moving on.

Extra time should be factored into any itinerary to properly enjoy this temple. Depending on the time of day, late morning/early afternoon sun can be brutal during most seasons. Bring a brolly, hat, lots of sunscreen and bottled water for this tourist delight. Plan a minimum of 1 – 2 hours. If time permits do make a side trip to Kedareswara Temple just a few minutes away.

Also known as gopuras, these rectangular layered towers rise more than 50 meters in height. Construction begins with a stone base sealed by richly detailed wood or metal doors, followed by a hollow superstructure made of brick and lime mortar. A barrel vaulted roof tops the tower which is then capped by gilded pot finials. The theme of each gopuram depicts images associated with the presiding deity of the temple. Elaborate plaster sculptures and carvings of gods and godesses, humans, animals, birds and other objects not always ascribed to Hinduism, are added to the tower’s outer skin. Openings in the middle of the wide sides allow natural light to enter the hollow space of each floor.

Some gopurams can be seen finished in a series of bright paints while others are completed in a simple limestone wash. Traditionally a gopuram was left colorless in a layer of lime. This basic protective coating made for a good weather preventative while also promoting the artistic beauty of the artist’s work. In more recent time, and to much debate, colored paint has been applied to many of the most famous temple gopuras of South India. Some believe it to be an inexpensive solution to combat the effects of India’s weather while others believe it is to make gopurams more easily visible in blinding sunlight. The thought on the latter concept being that light colored paints are hard to see from a distance. Artists trained specifically in the design, construction and maintenance of gopurams are reportedly in high demand as repairs inevitably need addressing among the thousands of temples in South India.

Visitors to smaller temples will find only one gopuram. One gopuram means only one entrance. Larger temples, often enclosed by an outer wall, may have an entrance on each of the cardinal points. Thus, each entrance will be adorned by a gopuram. Smaller gopuras inside a temple complex mark the entrance to the inner sanctums of the main deities. These smaller sized pyramidal gateways share the same construction and ornately finished outer details.

First things first, you’ll want to find a hotel room. Given Chamba is a little off the beaten tourist path, the choices in hotels fall short from some of the more well known hill station locations of Himachal Pradesh. An HPTDC hotel lies near the entrance of town. It’s clean and comfortable interior combined with ample parking is a popular choice for residents of the area, especially during wedding season. If you have even a hint of visiting Chamba during Mid-September through October, book a room well in advance as wedding parties overtake this modest size hotel.

For a second option with relatively easy access to town plus parking, head directly for Hotel Aroma Palace. Tucked behind the main road, a bevy of rooms on several floors offer choice views of the Chamba in all budget levels. Even the most reasonable rooms provide all the comforts of home.

Chamba’s charm isn’t immediately noticed as the calamity of the city shocks new arrivals. It takes a good day to get your running shoes in this crowded, lackluster city with a personality that shows only after spending some time exploring the sights. Don’t come looking for a gastric epiphany during your stay. Chamba’s restaurants are dingy at best. Instead, experience a buffet of tastes near the chaugan where chaat vendors serve up only the most popular Indian foods for rock bottom prices. Come early to eat in peace or wander over closer to 7 P.M. when the locals come out en mass to enjoy the evenings.

Staying in touch with friends and family back home isn’t hard in Chamba. Numerous STD/ISD phones can be found in the market. Internet cafes are also easily found however speed and equipment offered varies wildly. The best deal in town is along the inner road leading to Bhuri Singh Museum.

Two days is ample time to complete a tour of Chamba, unless rafting or trekking is on your agenda. River rafting is a relatively new adventure sport for this area, thanks to the successful draw of tourists to the Beas River rafting tours near Manali-Kullu. Numerous trekking trails through the Chamba Valley toward Mcleodganj and Manali begin near Chamba, which is really what brings foreign tourists to this more obscure area of North India.

What to See and Do in Chamba

Chaugun

Easily the main attraction of Chamba, the chaugan is a large grassy field used for sports, festivals, picnics and evening strolls. British occupants used it as a polo and cricket ground. Today, you can always find someone, from kids to adults, no matter what time of day, enjoying the great expanse located next to the heart of Chamba.

Hari Rai Temple

A visit to Hari Rai Temple takes tourists past the fire brigade, the chaugan, and finally to the eyesore called Gandhi Gate. Ravi River, which is believed to have once flowed as high as the base of the temple, is just a short walk away down a steep hill.

Chamunda Devi Temple

With commanding views of the city and mountainous vista, this temple was only accessible by steps many years ago. Sunrise and sunset are terrific times to enjoy worship.

Laxmi Narayan Temple

Shikhara style temples dating back to the 10th Century, 6 in total, will captivate those who visit. Hand carved stone stacked directly above inner shrines are capped by wooden umbrellas for a unique architectural style only seen in northern Himachal Pradesh.

Chamba Church

You’ll only need 10 minutes or less to experience what’s left of Chamba’s only Christian church. Scottish architecture clashes with neighboring homes and businesses, a homage to the Church of Scotland which occupied this building for decades.

Bhuri Singh Museum

A little pre-visit reading will greatly enhance what museum guests see inside Bhuri Singh Museum. Two floors of local and regional treasures from paintings, weapons, to clothing, are displayed behind glass cases. Although the staff doesn’t speak much English, nearly every sign is written for Hindi and English readers. The real treasures are old photographs depicting Chamba in it’s earlier years when the town oozed charm and character.

Rang Mahal

Crumbling walls shadowed by overgrown trees aren’t the best reasons to pay a visit to what was once the royal residence of Chamba. What is worth taking note are the local artisans who occupy the former palace rooms. Painters, weavers and carvers work in relative silence as visitors shop below from a handful of shops equally as run down as the palace.

Shopping

Chamba’s marketplace is a hodge-podge of daily basics of vegetables and plastic cups set against modern electronics. An endless stream of people watching is worth a sit wherever you can find a free space. Stroll through the hillside alleys for a look inside smaller shops next to residential homes and offices.

The style in which this Hindu temple was built couldn’t be any more opposite than the other temples of Chamba. Instead of a stone shikhara and small attached mandapa, the Chamunda Devi Temple is made entirely of wood and sits atop a raised platform of large stones. A covered hallway (mandapa), is seamlessly integrated into the temple construction looking more like a small, humble home with a porch than the temple devoted to goddess Kali.

The mandapa has intriguing carvings in in its multi paneled wood ceiling with numerous heavy brass bells hanging at different lengths. Ceiling carvings show depictions of human figures as well as on the pillars and brackets. Inside the inner shrine, a red cloth can be seen wrapped around the main deity. Visitors will notice all the hindu deities placed around the temple complex are wrapped in the same red cloth embellished with gold trim. Behind the main temple is a small shrine of Lord Shiva in the Shikhara style.

Walking the stone step path requires a minimum of 30 minutes, beginning near the bus stand. Spectacular views of the town’s landmarks below as well as the wooded mountains only add to the experience of visiting Chamunda Devi Temple. Sunsets dipping below the rugged landscape are especially beautiful times to linger on benches under mature trees covering much of the temple property.

Entry is open to all persons.

The clean, quiet environment of Jagdamba Temple, backdropped by the gorgeous rolling Dhauladhar Mountain Range, starkly contrasts that of Chamba’s temples situated within it’s crowded city center. Numerous homestays and/or guest houses are situated near the temple within walking distance.

Jai Jagdambe Mandir is open to all faiths, yet Shaivas from near and far are sure to appreciate Khajjiar’s newest tourist attraction the most. Plan to take 10-15 minutes exploring the impressive effigy resembling one of Hinduism’s more popular and important gods before moving onward.

When built, Hari Rai Temple was away from the original town of Chamba. That is, until the official entrance to this hillside city in northern Himachal Pradesh was moved so as to enter directly through Gandhi Gate and subsequently right past the temple. Today tourists enter Chamba via a different route, leaving this edge of town a dusty stopping point for wayward travelers before turning back toward the more famous Laxmi Narayan Temple.

Temples in Chamba are nearly all designed in the North Indian Nagara style of architecture; a shikhara or layered tower stands directly above the inner sanctum. Hari Rai Temple is an ancient example of this design type, albeit a compact version. It’s squat shikhara and small courtyard, a far cry from the massive temples of South India, sit atop a stone platform accessed via stairs. The temple is famous for it’s stunning bronze image of Lord Vishnu in the form of Chaturmurti (An aspect of Vishnu when he has a body of human being and heads of a man, a lion, a boar and a demon). Visitors will share space with the handful of Indian tourists who come to pay their respects, however, this temple is more popular among Chamba’s full time residents.

Continue past the Hari Rai Temple to view the Shitla Bridge crossing over Ravi River. Legend states the river once flowed so close to the temple that followers had to wade across to reach it.

It’s hard to be unbiased at times when first seeing new sights of India. Some fall into the pattern of ho-hum, I’ve already seen this at INSERT TOWN NAME HERE, or THERE, and then there are tourist destinations like Hadimba Temple in Manali. The ancient temple located in the small village of Dhungri far in the northern reaches of Himachal Pradesh, is mentioned in nearly every India guide book as something spectacular to see. On closer inspection, the question I have is, why?

From the moment visitors step out of their car or arrive by tuk tuk or taxi, they are accosted by touts. And these aren’t the annoying young Indian men hawking postcards or selling various trinkets one doesn’t need. These touts are a mix of older and younger Himachali women carrying bright white, massive angora rabbits. Rabbits you say? Yes, rabbits. Because nothing says “Look at the photos of my trip to India” like posing with a complete stranger holding a rabbit behind a pagoda temple. After a few weeks or even days of India travel it becomes rather easy to dismiss street sellers. Yet these Indian woman have honed their selling tactics to crack even the coldest of hearts. Indian tourists stop to pose, giggling through the click click click of their family’s camera. From the way they are reacting to the rabbits it seems as if this is their first encounter of seeing an animal. Clearly they are from the city. Probably Delhi.

Hadimba Temple is also known as Dhungri Temple due to it’s location within the village which shares the same name. Dirt paths through the dark forest of deodar trees line the way to the temple from the jammed parking lot of cars and buses. But just as you thought you could move beyond the rabbits to take in the fantastic architecture of Hadimba Temple, here come the yaks. Yaks you say? Yes, yaks. Because nothing says “I went to India and all I got was a photo on this lousy yak” like, well, riding a yak. It starts to sink in that this whole experience is nothing more than one big tourist trap. Waving off a yak ride is much easier than trying to say no to the rabbit ladies who flash sad faces and walk as if they have the hips of 80 year grannies.

Finally it’s time to explore the temple, a rather spectacular building completed in 1553. A four tiered pagoda roof tops the base made of wood timbers and mortar. It’s main facade is made entirely of intricately carved wood paneling. The religious history of the Hindu temple is quite involved, and goes beyond the few Hindu deities which most foreign tourists come to know during their travels. Suffice to say the temple was named after a demoness, Hadimba, who meditated here. She eventually attained the position of Durga. Thus, the sanctuary is built over a rocky crevice covered by a large rock that is worshiped as a manifestation of Durga.

A 3 day event held every May at Hadimba/Dhungri Temple of Manali, adds even more circus to the already withstanding fair-like setting of rabbits and yak rather than any religious connection. Rides, merchants, bands and dancers come together to celebrate the local people and their culture. What it amounts to as a small county fair designed to bring tourists into Manali. Foreign travelers may be turned off by the enormous amount of garbage and clutter which amasses by the end of the festival, as well as the size of crowds.

Hadimba Temple is best seen early in the day before the usual sightseeing crowds gather. Dense forest encapsulating the temple creates beautiful photo backdrops, and the winding pathways leading to and from the temple are perfect for scenic walks. At a distance of only 1.5 kms from the hill station of Manali, it’s easily walkable from the Mall. I wouldn’t recommend it be at the top of your list of things to do in Manali, however it’s a popular destination to take an early morning stroll if you have spare time.

#HadimbaTemple

Nag Panchami is the traditional Hindu festival of snakes celebrated within the months of July or August, whichever the fifth day of the bright fortnight in the month of Shravan falls. Hindu mythologies are filled with stories and fables about snakes, and there are no shortage of legends revolving the origin of this celebration.

Celebrated during the rainy season of summer, Nag Panchami occurs as rain from the annual monsoon floods the holes in which various snakes of India inhabit. Naturally they come out in search of dry ground be it gardens or inside homes. The belief is that this festival will counter the increased possibility of a snake bite during this time. Snakes are collected in earthen pots and brought to various temples across the country where to be worshiped. Temples devoted to Lord Shiva, an admirer of snakes, are particularly favored during Nag Panchami.

Indians at home observe Nag Panchami in different ways. A day long fast occurs in some areas of India while in other areas it is customary for wives and new brides to visit their premarital homes. Women rise early to bathe afterward dressing in fine saris. Other gestures include the offering of milk and silver jewelry to images of snakes or clay figures which are sold in neighborhood markets. Milk and flowers are even left as a sign of devotion near snake holes. Good fortune is said to come from any snake which drinks the milk. And yet in other areas, cow dung is used to create images of snakes at the entrance to homes to welcome the snake god.

Temple rituals include snakes (collected in pots) fed milk and rice before being set free.

What Isn’t Discussed

Sadly, India has set a record for having the highest snake mortality in a single day during these festivities.

While it is true that monsoon conditions flood the homes of snakes who rarely bite humans unprovoked, thousands of snakes are collected for Nag Panchami. Folklore says no humans are bitten by the snakes during worship. To ensure this, snakes are starved, kept in tiny boxes or bags without ventilation for days, their teeth are pulled out and finally their mouths are sewn shut. Hot needles are used to pierce the venom duct of snakes which cause the animals glands to rupture. Adding a final insult to the worshiped Nag Panchami idol, the eyes of some snakes are impaired when the tikka applied during puja trickles down from their hoods.

Because the snakes are starved of water they drink the milk offered to them. Milk is not a part of their natural diet. Most die as a result of dehydration, allergic reactions and other painful causes. It is estimated that up to 2000 snakes die in Mumbai alone during Nag Panchami.

It is a crime for snake charmers to catch and exploit snakes for business purposes or even own them according to the Wildlife Act and Prevention of Cruelty Act-1972. That doesn’t stop scores of people from continuing the cruel practices mentioned above. Little repercussions come from those caught.

Where To See

Baltis Shirale village: Reportedly the largest collection of snakes in the world. Celebrations attract visitors from all over the world. And organizers claim no-one has ever been bitten.

Temples in Rajasthan, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh are also well known for their Nag Panchami festivities. Travel in these or other areas where festivities are active will be delayed. Plan accordingly.

Naga Panchami Calendar

2011: August 4

2012: July 24

2013: August 11

For more than 400 years, Chamunda Devi Temple has overlooked the colossal Dhauldhar ranges of the Himalayan mountains. Situated along the river Ban Ganga banks, roughly 15 kms from Dharamsala, you’ll find one of the most beloved and visited temples dedicated to goddess Durga A.K.A. Chamunda.

The sacred temple enjoys brisk daily traffic, heavier on the weekends, and crushing throngs of devotees on Durga Puja, eager for a chance to view the spiritual rock below the main entrance. Local legends speak of healing powers from this cave structure representing the stone lingam, an embodiment of the Hindu god Shiva. The temple is constructed on two floors accessed through a large covered pathway adorned with beautifully sculpted figures of Hinduism’s most recognizable idols, painted in vibrant colors. It isn’t until reaching the outer area of Chamunda Devi Temple that you suddenly realize the scope of it’s presence along the river.

Lions, snakes and monkeys, oh my! Over-size statues of revered Hindu deities and their respective symbols watch over the large pond lying adjacent the temple and Banganga River. Nooks and crannies filled with religious figures are colorfully displayed behind annoying metal fences. And as if that wasn’t enough to deter anyone looking for a picture or to deface property, shards of glass have been embedded into the cement bases. Local villagers and visiting families wade in the river’s rushing waters. You’ll find some even doing laundry or more appropriately relaxing over a picnic lunch. An arched walkway takes the less adventurous over the river to the awaiting handicrafts center. Shopping, paddle boat rides in the holy pond, lunch by the river, all under the watchful eyes of colorfully painted mythological figures, blends itself into a theme-park atmosphere not to be missed.

India travel guides give nary a mention to this unique find. That isn’t to say it’s hard to locate, and don’t confuse Chamunda Devi Temple, located in the North India state of Himachal Pradesh, with the multitude of temples by the same name in other Indian states. Buses or taxis from neighboring Dharamsala, Baijnath or Kangra will instantly know of it’s whereabouts.

#ChamundaHP

Behind the bustling market stalls in the tranquil town of Kangra lies one of the most magnificent temples of North India. Behind the cricket field, behind the innumerable stalls selling everything from fresh chicken to puja offerings, Bajreshwari Devi Temple stands tall among its surroundings. Yet reaching the popular Hindu temple devoted to goddess Bajreshwari presents a bit of a challenge requiring patience, and a good guide.

It is not known when Bajreshwari Devi (A.K.A. Vajreshwari) was built. History reports that the temple was attacked in 1009, by Mohammed Ghazni, a Muslim ruler who amassed a vast wealth from repeated raids of India. In 1905, a devastating earthquake flattened the original temple along with much of Kangra and the nearby Kangra Fort. Fifteen years after the horrific quake, Bajreshwari Devi Temple was reopened in 1920, one of only a few remaining temples of Kangra’s glorious past.

The annual festival of Makar Sankranti is famously celebrated at Vajreshwari Devi. The holy tradition of applying ghee to the goddess idol, followed by a washing of cold water 100 times is still performed. Afterward the idol is decorated by flowers. This practice continues for a week.

Visitors arriving to Kangra town by car must park at a  central parking lot teaming with tourist buses and private cars. Cross the street to find a cobbled pathway meandering through the brimming Kangra bazaar. Twists and turns, steps and steep inclines mark the path toward the noteworthy temple. Stalls lining the market sell everything visitors and pilgrims may need including ready made puja offerings. Lost? Simply ask, “temple?”, from any merchant and you’ll be sure to receive a wave of their hand in the right direction. The ever clanging bell used to wake the gods will guide you the rest of the way.

Expect the lines to be long to reach the inner sanctum. Bajreshwari Devi Temple is a busy pilgrimage site for traveling Hindus and of course, tourists. Relax afterward in the marble courtyard as many families do, shop in the market, watch the local kids play cricket, or visit the ruins of Kangra Fort just 3.5 kms away.

Entry is free. Removal of shoes in mandatory. Be prepared for large groups of tourists and locals.

#BajreshwariKangra