Bargaining is an Expected Way of Doing Business

To say that bargaining is the normal way of conducting business in India would be a gross understatement. The concept of bargaining is instilled at a young age, so much so, it’s not uncommon to see Indians haggling over listed menu prices at a restaurant. Nowhere is this back and forth activity seen more than in the markets of India. Forget that the stalls are ripe with tempting selections begging to be purchased. Real value while shopping in India is found in watching and learning how to bargain.

Savvy shopkeepers keep a steady eye and firm grasp on the bottom-line. They know how to read their customer’s faces, whether it’s a foreign tourist looking to bring home souvenirs or the local housewife shopping for tonight’s food items, and tailor their pricing accordingly. Crafting respectable bargaining skills is a challenge involving time and practice. Shopping takes twice as long as it should when both seller and buyer are trying desperately to meet somewhere in the figurative middle ground.

Not All Goods Can Be Bargained For

Fixed price shops with clearly marked signage and price tags are generally off limits. That isn’t to say I haven’t tried before, the worst you will hear is no. Also, Government emporiums are notoriously fixed priced attracting a large number of tourists uninterested in bargaining. Another version of these are called “cottage shops”. And finally, prepackaged goods sold in India are all fixed price. This includes bottled beverages, mobile phones, music, cosmetics and boxed foods to name a few items. A preset price (inclusive of taxes) is stamped somewhere on the package. It’s rare that a merchant will sell under the M.R.P. or Maximum Retail Price, but it does happen occasionally.

What Works, What Doesn’t, What Irritates

•Avoid taking a taxi, tuk-tuk or rickshaw to the market or specific shop if possible. Drivers earn a commission just for dropping you, regardless of which shop you buy from. You’ll be paying extra right from the start because of this arrangement. Begin a negotiation by telling the shopkeeper no-one brought you to the shop or you did not come with a driver.

Bed sheets to be purchased in Kota, Rajasthan, North India

•Buying the first item at the first shop is a sure fire way to overpay. Get an idea for how much an item(s) generally costs by browsing several shops either fixed price or pay as you wish before settling on one merchant.

•Shop Early! Shop Late! Store owners consider the first sale of the day to be lucky. Arriving shortly after opening might yield a better price. Vegetable cart vendors start their days early, preferring to sell out before noon before restarting in the early afternoon with a fresh batch of goods. Buy early or toward noontime for better pricing from motivated sellers. Cart vendors still out toward early evening are eager to end their days with a last minute bargain sale.

•Buy in bulk. When shopping for fresh produce, you can always bargain for a better price per kilogram when purchasing a large amount.

•Whether you show too much interest or try to play it cool, the store owner knows which item you will like before you do. Avoid time wasting techniques by asking to see other items when you could get right into bargaining for the item you truly want.

•Politely turn down offers for chai or soda. This is meant to make you feel committed to an owner’s shop as well as to buy him more time to tempt you with more goods. If he still brings a refreshment continue to politely refuse at least two more times.

•Begin the bartering process by asking, “How much is this?”, or motioning to a particular item (if there are many) and asking in specifics, “How much is the blue sheet?”. This opening dialogue works even if the item has a price tag on it. The shop keeper now knows you are looking to bargain. If he asks, “How much are you willing to pay?”, begin with an opening offer anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 the price marked.

Strawberries for sale in Mysore, Karnataka, South India

•Offering too little can be humiliating to the store owner, aggravating them enough to end all discussion. Be sure that the item you are looking at isn’t a one-of-a-kind purchase that should command a higher sale price.

•Have a maximum price in mind before negotiating. Conversations can be quick, and before you realize what you have agreed upon, the price is higher than you were able to pay.

•Shop keepers are more willing to settle on a price quickly when shoppers plead with them; “Please, please, please”, said in a non-threatening manner works with sellers you think may be soft at heart.

•Ignore the stories of how many children the seller has to feed, or what medical problems he may be facing at home. You are supporting him by shopping in his store. Overpaying only instills a mindset that tourists will pay more than they should.

•Resist any temptation to argue, or raise you voice, or use excessive body language. Unless the seller changes a price or tries to pull a bait and switch arguing will only get you booted out of a store.

•If the shop keeper doesn’t drop the price enough, thank him for his time and walk out. This works well for items you know you can find elsewhere or in an empty showroom. Nine times out of 10 he will call you back to negotiate. The owner knows you are serious and will now be willing to meet your terms.

•Be upfront with the owner if you plan to use a credit card for payment. He is willing to bargain in the mindset you will pay in cash. Credit card companies charge merchants fees for each sale. Bad feelings come from unexpected plastic payments.

•Only spend what you have, never go to the ATM. The seller will be far less likely to bargain if he knows you have the ability to get more cash. Also, you become a target with others around by mentioning the need to stop at the ATM. At the same time, don’t show that you are carrying excess cash.

•Lay down the exact amount you are willing to spend in cash up front. Store owners are always willing to bargain when they see your interest and ability to pay are serious.

•It’s not uncommon for a competing seller nearby to hear an offer and agree to it without direct communication from you. Continue working with the seller in front of you unless he is unwilling to match or beat that offer.

#indiabargain

New tourists to India may not even notice the cheap and understated way of old fashioned object association advertising. But local drivers know exactly how to spot businesses in India. Low air pressure? Look for a tire leaning against a tree or hung over a metal pole. Need a new mattress? Look for a stack of them piled right up to the roadside collecting dust and dirt. Fresh vegetables for tonight’s dinner? Look for any number of mobile vegetable carts brimming with the freshest produce who come running up to your window with the first tap of the brake lights.

Unlike the western world where business regulations require signage for nearly everything, and homogenized store names leave prospective customers confused about which goods are sold, Indians need only look for the exact item they desire along the highways. Mind the roadsides of India on your next car ride. You might just find that kilo of sugar you needed.

Any tourist with preconceived notions that India is just a dust bowl, third world country, has not heard of The Ridge located in the center of beautiful hilly Shimla, Himachal Pradesh. Meandering lanes run like arteries to Mall Road, the heart of The Ridge amongst scented pines and rhododendron forests, green pastures and snow capped peaks. The wide open mixed-use space is a delight among locals and nature enthusiasts as well as travelers interested in a change from the mundane sightseeing itineraries.

The Ridge is famous for many things, but locals will tell you it is best for shopping. Roads lined with boutiques, cafes, bars, restaurants plead passers-by to stop in. High ticket, foreign apparel companies have entered into this market with great success as the burgeoning Indian middle class is infatuated with western influenced clothing. Coffee houses such as Barista and Coffee Cafe day are also finding great success not only from this same customer, but the wandering tourist in need of an espresso fix.

Running east to west, The Ridge is connected on both ends to other well known areas. On the eastern end of The Mall is a wooden crafts market or Lakkar Bazaar. Scandal point on the western end is a popular meeting area as well as the highest point of the Mall area. As tradition states, it’s name is derived from a popular tale regarding the King of Patiala and his crush over the daughter of the Viceroy of India. One day while she was taking a stroll in this place, the King of Patiala kidnapped her. From that period on, the place came to be known as the Scandal Point of Shimla.

Once the preferred summer escape by the British, Shimla’s past is evident in the multiple buildings still standing from it’s former ruler. Fleur-de-lis emblazoned black rod iron gates line the pathways leading to The Mall. Gaiety Theatre sits proudly near the center square, a perfect picture backdrop to highlight the stark differences between the two worlds within one. And on the east end of The Mall, another historical monument is the majestic Christ Church. It’s iconic yellow washed walls can be seen from all angles on approach and is well known for being the second oldest church in Northern India.

Be wary of drivers who claim there is nothing to see in Shimla. Because of the dense population, narrow steep roads, and limited numbers of highly sought after parking spots, drivers routinely wave off Shimla in favor of more accessible destinations. Insist on seeing Shimla, and specifically The Ridge. It will change any traveler’s perceptions of India, win fans of those interested in history and nature, and wow friends & family at home with spectacular photos of the surrounding mountain tops.

Things to Do at The Ridge:

Christ Church

Tudor Library

Gaiety Theatre

Statues of: Mahatma Gandhi, Indira Gandhi and Dr. Y S Parmar – the first Chief Minister of the state of Himachal Pradesh.

Summer Festival: (Held Late April/Early May) A series of cultural programs including local folk songs/dances mark this festival held in the famous Ridge Ground.

Winter Sports Festival: Shimla is the only place in Asia to have a natural ice-skating rink. Ice-skating normally begins in early December and continues till February. The competition is interspersed with fancy-dress shows, dances and lively music.

Indian Coffee House: Famous South Indian chain of small cooperatives which has spread across the country.

Scandal Point

Bar Hop: Numerous clubs welcome foreign tourists. No dress code, casual but respectful.

Each net is held by a cantilevered structure made of bamboo and teak requiring a minimum of 4 men to operate. Modest yields coming from each haul translate into humble earnings. Flimsy shacks made of bamboo poles covered in well used plastic tarps or stray pieces of fabric serve up the fresh catches of the nets a mere footsteps behind. The concept of selling freshly caught seafood to the public and local chefs right along the narrow beach is not unique, but it is a delightfully different and unexpected side of India.

Pike’s Place Market in Seattle, Washington or Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, California, are two remote comparisons to the simple splendor of the Chinese fishing nets. Similarly with the other two locations, tourists roam the brick tiled boardwalk of Vasco da Gama Square perusing the fresh treats, taking photos and asking questions. All this occurs around the frenzied verbal calls and hand gestures inviting inquisitive (or more likely hungry) travelers to just “come have a look”. Should a tourist be tempted enough to turn from casual observer into customer, Fort Kochi is littered with restaurants willing to prepare a full meal to an individual’s specifications. Freshly caught fish can go from water to grill to plate in under an hour. Perfection.

Visitors of the fishing nets who get too curious may find themselves involved in some lighthearted audience participation. Fishermen signal tourists to come forth, walking along the thin bamboo planks up the the net structures. From here the basic operating instructions are relayed to the amusement of the working men. Participants will be expected to leave a little baksheesh for the fishermen efforts.

Of course with the draw of tourist money, so comes the omnipresent street vendor peddling anything from henna stamps to postcards to ice cream. The mixture is rather comical making this a must stop opportunity for souvenir loving travelers.

Visitors can plan roughly an hour to adequately see the nets and surrounding stalls. This area is part of the larger walking tour of Fort Kochi but can also be accessed via the plentiful tuk tuks and taxis which idle nearby in the square. The famous Kathakali dance performances also take place within walking distance to the nets. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and flip flops in case the beach beckons. Ample eating establishments serving a wide array of cuisine including Indian fare are a stones throw from here.

Top Newspapers Print & Online

More than 5500 newspapers are published within India. That means foreign tourists have a wealth of sources to rely on for news coverage not only about India, but the headlines from home.

Asian Age – Delhi, Kolkata, London & Mumbai

Business Standard – National

Central Chronicle – Madhya Pradesh

Daily Excelsior – Jammu & Kashmir

Deccan Chronicle – South India

Deccan Herald – Bangalore / National

Express India – National

Financial Express – National

Hindustan Times – National

Indian Express – South India

Kashmir Observer – Kashmir

Kashmir Times -  Jammu & Kashmir

Mid Day – National Tabloid

News India Times – USA based Indian-American publishing

News Today – Chennai

Star of Mysore – Mysore / Karnataka

The Assam Tribune – Assam

The Hindu – Chennai

The Navhind Times – Goa

The Pioneer – North India

The Sentinel – Assam / Northeast India

The Statesman – Kolkata

The Telegraph – Kolkata

The Times Group:

The Times of India – National

The Economic Times – India’s largest and world’s second largest financial daily

Navbharat Times – Popular Hindi daily newspaper

Maharastra Times – Popular Marathi daily newspaper

Mumbai Mirror – Leading morning newspaper in Mumbai

The Tribune – Chandigarh

Popular / Noteworthy Books

Tourists looking to get a sense of India as a country can delve into a travel guide for basic background information. Though, to really understand the dynamic inner-workings of South Asia, any of the recommended books will shed new light on old stereotypes. These titles slowly draw readers into the daily life of India through comedy, tragedy, suspense, and faith.

Top Magazines Print & Online

Business Barrons – Business

Business Today – Business

Cosmopolitan – Women’s Fashion and Issues

Dimdima – Children’s Focus

Elle India – Women’s Fashion

Femina – Popular Women’s Issues

India Today – Weekly News

Men’s Health India – Men’s Fitness

Money Today – Financial News

Screen – Weekly Movie Magazine

Women’s Era – Women’s Issues

Wonder Woman – Women’s Issues

Verve Magazine – Premiere Women’s International

2. Calculate the cost to get to India from your location. Keep in mind that airports across the country are serviced by various airlines sometimes offering lower rates to attract business. It may actually be cheaper to fly into a neighboring city and catch a puddle jump to your original destination than booking a direct flight.

Average airfare: $1100 – $2000 (Coach)

3. Are you traveling solo, with a family, using a car & driver service or booking a group tour? Factor in the cost of an organized package (sold through travel agencies) inclusive of hotels, transportation and in some cases, entrance fees to major attractions. Budget travelers can locate ticket costs for trains and buses through the National websites.

4. With few exceptions, all your meals will be purchased from the outside. Fortunately India is well known to cater to budget travelers. But for those who want to savor the fine wines and tastes of spice, food costs can reach higher. Budget according to how you eat at home. You’ll probably need three meals a day and snacks for every person in your trip. Reduce expenses by carrying snacks in your luggage that are within easy reach during long car trips, plane rides or train travel. Research meal costs on hotel websites to get a general idea of expenses in each city based on your travel level. Keep costs down by following this trusty measure: 1 person, 1 dish/ 2 person, 1 dish/ 3 person, 2 dish/ 4 person, 3 dish/ 5 person, 3 dish/ 6 person, 4 dish etc.

Average cost of meals: Rs 50 – 400 (Budget to Mid-Range for two persons, per meal)

5. Sightseeing costs can quickly mount so do your homework beforehand. Most recommended travel guides provide current entrance fees as well as any camera or hidden costs. Add this to your budget under remembering to figure in small tips for things such as bathroom attendants and temple shoe keepers.

Average entry fee cost: Rs 100 – 500 (Protected sites or Indian Government run monuments are always the most expensive)

6. Hotels, hostels, B & B’s…this category is one of the easiest to stay in line. Mid-Range to Four and Five star hotels commonly have websites with built-in reservation systems for convenient booking. But they offer a general street rate which they hope you will take. There isn’t much bargaining at luxury hotels unless you retain an agency who has connections. For Mid-Range and budget, the room rate is in your hands. Simple negotiating can get you in the door for 20, 30, 40 sometimes 50% off the advertised rate. Budget on the high end to cover any surprise costs or dead-end haggling.

Trekkers Rs 200 | Budget Rs 300 – 800 | Mid Rs 900 – 2000 | Luxury Rs 2000 and up

7. Factor in tips & gratuity. Although not common among locals, unknowing tourists over the years have set a standard of minimum 10% tipping for services. Foreigners are most often met with an outstretched hand for luggage handling, bathroom attendants or an entry fee to use a bathroom, waiters, shoe watchers at temples and various monuments…the list can get exhaustive.

8. Shopping in India is a must. Merchants in every village, town and city will be beckoning you to come see their shop, just have a look. And don’t think you won’t be tempted at some point along your travels. Include a slush fund for these purchases. This will keep you on track during those weak moments.

9. Estimate any other charges, fees, or extra services which will require money. Internet cafe’s/services, postal stamps, ATM withdrawal fees, temple donations, medical expenses, etc.

10. Review all categories ensuring figures used are realistic based on research and/or information from knowledgeable sources. Add up all the totals for your travel budget. Too much? Trim fat where possible or make notes next to questionable items (I.E. room costs) that may be lower in person after some negotiation. Sticking to your budget will reduce travel stress, unwanted bills when you return home, and keep you from running short well before the end of your trip.

Heavy foot and vehicle traffic marks MG Road as a tourist and local favorite

After a few hours of crossing Bangalore in a car, darting from one tourist sight to another, stretching your legs on MG & Brigade Road is a welcome find. Travel guides will certainly point you in this direction given the access to Western and Indian shops as well as hotels, cafes and numerous restaurants. My travel companion and I had plenty of freedom to roam as our room was well within walking distance from here.

Parking is a nightmare unless you have a scooter. Plan accordingly if traveling by car + driver. Tuk Tuk’s are everywhere providing taxi service to and from this destination. Once here you’ll find yourself immersed in the young urban youths as well as the up and coming middle class filling the streets. Western clothing dons nearly every shopper here making the high number of foreign tourists fit right in. Everything from McDonald’s to KFC to Benneton is at your fingertips.

For a quick pick me up, head to Cafe Coffee Day. Starbucks “Indian style” offers a huge menu of coffee, tea and sweets perfect for a quick jolt of energy.

Brigade Rd filled with international brands and more

EmGee’s Restaurant located on, you guessed it, MG Road provides an immaculate choice in dining for this area. Pure veg cuisine is served in a very modern, dark wood with glass and metal interior. My partner and I caught this in-between meals however felt confident recommending it based on outward appearances. The long canopied entrance, host station and peek inside appeared extremely neat and clean. We were warmly greeted as we looked around viewing the menu and decor.

Do watch your traveling party while browsing the streets. Traffic is very dense, quick and impatient. It’s best to cross at intersection when you can find a light in your favor. And although it didn’t feel as if we were being watched as tourists, one eye was always scanning the crowd for potential theft opportunities.

This is one of the biggest commercial and busiest shipping areas of Bangalore. Give yourself at least an hour for rapid window shopping on MG and Brigade or up to all day if serious shopping interests you.

Across the street from the Red Fort lies Chandni Chowk, an area completely dedicated to shopping, trading and eating. While the Red Fort offers tranquillity, Chandni Chowk is its opposite. It is an enormous area, packed with all sorts of shops, bazaars, people of all kinds. The main street offers all kinds of shops, and it overflows with all kinds of traffic. But you can also dive into the alleys that branch off on all sides. Wherever you go, it bustles, boils, is full of sounds and smells, in one word: it is exciting!

Apart from walking around to take in the wares of the silversmiths, bicycle repair shops, washing machine outlets, wedding dresses, food outlets, and almost anything else you could think of, it is also great to just stop somewhere and let the frenzy go by. I stood on the central reserve of the road from where you get a close view of the traffic. The serious, sweaty faces of the bicycle-rickshaw drivers driving with heavy loads behind their backs, women walking by with their colourful saris whirling behind them like a flag, cows walking the street, salesmen trying to lure you into their shop.

Crossing the street brings you back to the sheer excitement of the shouts of salesmen, a boy pushing a heavy cart warning people in his way, people negotiating over a deal. As soon as you go into the narrow alleys, the hustle diminishes. Here, you can find small, quiet shops selling silver, an old lonely man selling mangoes on the street, monkeys running on the roofs. Chandni Chowk also boasts a temple and a mosque, among other sights, but the main attraction, according to me, is the endless theatre of every day life that unfolds right under your eyes. Source-Wikipedia

Chandni Chowk, meaning Silvery, Moonlit Square, once had a canal running through it. Laid out in 1648, it was Shahjahanabad’s most elegant boulevard lined with mansions and grand shops. Foreign tourists flock to Jami Masjid, the largest mosque in India and positioned to one end of Chandni Chowk. Tightly packed stalls selling everything from jewelry, clothes, shoes and more line the current day alleys and lanes. Behind every corner, travelers can find shops tucked behind another bend where only pedestrians could possibly fit.

The best way to explore the area used to be catching a taxi or tuk-tuk to Red Fort and then transferring to a cycle rickshaw. Unfortunately, the Delhi High Court placed a ban, May 2006, on the use of cycle rickshaws within Chandi Chowk. Just a year later, in May 2007, this was ban was formally challenged but suffice to say the master plan of Delhi is seen without cycle rickshaws. These days, set off with comfortable walking shoes. Congestion, shopping, eating and general sightseeing will have you on your feet constantly.

Highlights of Chandni Chowk

Digambar Jain Temple

Bird Hospital

Gauri Shankar Temple

Sisganj Gurudwara

Fatehpuri Masjid

Jama Masjid- India’s largest mosque. Be aware of specific rules for female and non-muslim visitors

Sunehri Masjid

Markets of Chandi Chowk

Khari Baoli- One of Asia’s biggest spice markets

Kinari Bazaar- Gold market

Churiwali Galli- Bangle sellers lane

Chawri Bazaar- Copper, brass items

Titan watches have become my best purchases providing daily memories of India. My first two styles were found in Jaipur, Rajasthan with the help of my friend and driver Rakesh. He suggested I take a look at the Titan brand, manufactured by the Indian TATA group and well known across India. A short walk in nearly any market will typically yield many locations where one can browse inventories. Prices start around $40 running well into the thousands but you won’t see many price points beyond $200 in stores. High ticket items can be found on their website.

After returning home, a quick search taught me Titan Industries is the world’s sixth largest wrist watch manufacturer while being India’s leading producer of watches. Three manufacturing facilities around India export watches to 40 countries around the world. Impressive.

My initial purchases were wearing very well through my second and third visit. But, shortly after my 2008 trip, the battery in one watch died while the dial on the other watch broke off. I made several reminder notes to bring both watches with me during my Oct 2009 journey.

Delhi held my best options for selection and repair so, with Rakesh in tow, I scoured Connaught Place looking for the Mecca of Titan showrooms. After an hour of walking and asking directions, we only found one over-priced looking store. Defeated, hungry and tired, I went back to my hotel thinking my watches may not be repaired. Later that night I decided to walk Laxmi Marg where the hotel was located. Luck was on my side as I located a small storefront after a short walk. The next day Rakesh helped translate the repair order to the owner and his assistant. The owner, a firm, authoritative figure, seemed curiously intrigued at my interest in Titan. This grew to smiles when my repair need turned to a purchase.

In Jaipur, the store owner informed me that Titan was exclusively fixed price. This meant, no bargaining. When asked about a discount in Delhi, the owner very quickly offered 10% off even if a credit card was used. So, a purchase was made and a return visit to pick up my repair was arranged for the following evening. Unfortunately when we returned the next night, the watch in need of TLC, oddly enough, needed more time. One week at least, I was told, to repair the watch. Since I was on my way to the airport in a matter of hours this quest would have to wait until the next trip. In the meantime I could satisfy my disappointment with yet another purchase. With a swipe of my credit card and another 10% off, I left India with 2 more Titan watches.