The proximity of the two storied, open-roof restaurant to the popular Kathakali dance hall allows guests the option of stretching tired legs before dinner. Patrons ascend narrow rickety metal steps to reach the modest sized rooftop dining area. Packed with 7 tables each able to seat 4, there were 0 customers. It was too late to turn back. The owner was coming up the steps with menus, water and a giant smile. My mind was quickly conversing with my gut instincts to run. It was obvious my driver had some sort of a relationship with the owner for which he would receive a complimentary meal or some sort of baksheesh for bring me here.

Heat and humidity, a long drive earlier in the day and even more sitting during the Kathakali dance performance left me with little appetite. That evening’s special of grilled prawns spoke to me which I combined with an order of peas curry. A foreign couple found their way up the stairs and into the chairs overlooking the street followed shortly by yet another couple. Nearly every table was filled by the time my simple fare arrived. South Indians doesn’t fuss with food like their northern counterparts. An unassuming plate of grilled prawns served with lemon wedges, no gravy, came with no sides or garnish and unfortunately no spices. The accompanying peas in a deliciously light curry sauce helped offset the rather dry prawns.

Couples will really enjoy the intimate atmosphere of Krishna Kripa Seafood. Low lighting mixed with simple tableclothes and potted plants makes for a kitschy and relaxed setting in the equally laid back coastal city of Kerala.

On a walk early the following morning I stumbled across Krishna Kripa during the daylight. It’s owner and fellow staff men were already awake, cleaning and prepping for that evening’s crowd. Alongside the building was my driver washing his car. In exchange for my business the previous night he received dinner, a place to sleep, bathe, park and wash the car, and breakfast. Call that true Fair Trade.

With only one night in Fort Kochi this would not be my first recommendation, however, it’s reasonably priced compared to the more affluent choices closer to the tourist properties. At just Rs 855, this was a meal easily swallowed by the wallet.

Rendezvous, a Lonely Planet pick, was the preferred choice among the myriad of options after said afternoon. My travel partner and I were looking for a relaxing, breezy atmosphere in hopes of escaping the stifling heat. What we found was a roof top covered “garden” with views onto the street below. Potted plants added a touch of nature and ceiling fans blowing at full speed were just what was needed after a day of sun and sweat soaked sightseeing.

Although we were early for the dinner crowd, the seating area steadily filled to capacity by the end of our meal. You’ll be hard pressed to find an Indian employee here as nearly all the servers, cooks and odd job employees were of Asian nationality. Their no-nonsense personalities were somewhat off-putting yet we weren’t there for a show, just some good food. I asked about that evening’s “Seafood Harvest” special which was described as a sampling of fish, oysters, shrimp…a little bit of everything.

Comically, what arrived was an array of various seafood on a platter large enough for the Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing. The server didn’t mention the portion size was easily enough for 4, leaving me to forage through 3 types of fish, 2 types of shrimp, 2 types of calamari, oysters on the half shell, scallops and real escargots still in their original shell. It was overwhelming but deliciously superb fare. Surrounded by foreign tourists at every other table and eating seafood prepared every way but Indian, all I could do was shake my head. Another layer of India had exposed itself to me this night; This was a side of the country seemingly so far from the dusty dhabas which line the highways between her major cities and the narrow cement walled, dimly lit eateries of every wayward town.

Under the canopy of darkness and somewhat cooler ocean breezes, my travel partner and  I laughed at the Rs 600 cost for the feast that had been prepared. The recommendations for Rendezvous were spot on.

End the evening with dessert at L’Orient, a Pondicherry must.

TIP: Tuk Tuk from your accommodation site to the restaurant for Rs 30 or less and leisurely walk back afterward. The cooler breezes will have set in by nightfall allowing a decent walk without the sun and humidity combo.

Casual, laid back, breezy, full of happy tourists; Just a few ways to describe Moonraker’s, a triple story restaurant found on the beach drag of Mamallapuram. Although there are many other options for diners, and several on the waterfront, Moonraker’s has perfected the art of attracting hungry guests.  The owner has built up a network that runs deep in this bustling, but small beach side community of Tamil Nadu. Besides the strong recommendation my travel partner and I received from our driver, any tourists walking past the open air seating area are barraged by several employees whose sole purpose is to entice customers into staying.

With high temps, unforgiving sun beating us down, and shirts soaked in perspiration, we made the short walk from our hotel to check out the menu around 4 in the afternoon. Many seats were filled, music was playing while smiles were found all around (all good reasons to come back). Closer to dinner time we found ourselves standing in the front entrance. The two of us were given the choice of dining on the main level or upstairs. Not wanting to miss a view and the opportunity to snoop, I chose the upper level. To reach the narrow stairwell, guests walk past the mostly exposed kitchen where “Today’s Fresh Catch” is laid out on a waist high table. Come at the right time to find this platter overflowing with options. But, as the night lingers on, the supply of mouthwatering sea meats exhausts itself.

Up the flight of stairs we were directed past the first floor where it appeared mostly locals were dining. Not another soul was to be found on the cozy second floor. Six tables were stuffed into a drab, rectangular room. On one end was a hand washing basin next to the small, efficiently sized waiter station. A narrow aisle flowed past chairs and tables to the front end wall capped at waist height. No windows, no shutters, just open access to the world outside. Fans lining both side walls blew tornado like breezes through the empty shell, which my partner and I were thankful for. The air was still hot and muggy, a perfect recipe for ordering a Kingfisher and lime soda sweet.

Moonraker’s menu is simple: pick something from the fresh catch then decide which way you want it cooked. We chose the jumbo prawns in a garlic sauce and a mixed seafood grill. I empathized with our waiter who was in a constant state of running the steps. Drinks and food were picked up on the main level to be delivered two flights up. Other guests ventured the stairs as we waited for our wait time was moving into a quizzical period…as if he could read our minds, the waiter appeared to give reassurance food was coming soon. That is until the power went out. Aww, the rolling blackouts of India.

Within 10 minutes entrees arrived piping hot on no-nonsense plates. A few slices of lime was the only garnish needed for these non-fussy meals. Massive, not jumbo, sized prawns sat in a pool of delightfully seasoned garlic sauce. My plate of mixed grill would have been better served with some sort of gravy side dish, yet the lack of any seasoning let the natural flavors hit my taste buds.

TIP: Be sure to tip your waiter directly. Our waiter was up-front in thanking me for handing his gratuity personally. He asked me not to mention any tip to the owner (a sign that the owner wanted a percentage) while explaining tips left at the cashier below would not be passed along.

By the end of our meal, most of the tables were filled with the same type of smiling faces that sold us on returning just a few hours earlier. Maybe it’s the relaxed nature of visiting the beach or just the carefree environment the owner has created for his restaurant. Add a delicious meal with friendly service and you’ll see why this place is the appeal of hungry tourists.

Cost: Rs 920 (tip included)