Sittannavasal is best known for the 9th century paintings adorning it’s rock ceilings. They are considered second only in importance after the Ajanta cave paintings of Maharashtra. Funny enough, the cave temple doesn’t look like much from the road other than a rocky hill surrounded by scrub brush. Vehicles park in an unexciting dirt lot where an uneven path made from a combination of buried rocks and steps, not meant for the out of shape or elderly, begins the ascent to the temple. The climb amounts to a hefty workout best completed with a bottle of water and a sun hat. Halfway up the hill visitors need only turn around to capture the panoramic vista of Tamil Nadu farmland below. This view alone more than excuses the unexpected exercise.

The temple consists of three rooms: A pillared verandah, Ardah Mandapa, and Garbha-griham. The pillared verandah was added years after the cave was discovered in 1916. It’s now used to hang floor to ceiling shades which block out unforgiving sun light pelting the rock hill as well as to provide security from after hour visitors and vandals.

Inside the rocky expanse are multiple carvings of Jain saints. A similar temple, although much smaller, also exists outside Madurai in the town of Thirupparankundram. It stands about 1 km from the Hindu rock cut temple.

Sittannavasal lies on the western slope of the hill. To the East lies a natural cavern with rock beds where Jain ascetics are said to have practiced the most severe penance. To the north of this cavern, still on the eastern slop of the rock, is a small rock-cut temple submerged in a small lake called Navach-chunai. From here visitors can find megalithic monuments like burial urns and stone circles.

Visitors should plan a minimum of 1 hr to explore the temple. Additional time should be factored for further exploring. Find Sittannavasal while moving between Madurai to Trichy and Tanjore, or vice versa.

Entry Fee: Rs 5 Indians, Rs 100 Foreigners

Timings: Open from 9 am to 5:30 pm daily

Photography: Prohibited

Twelve intricately carved colorful gopurams reaching skyward create the view of a towering skyline among the dusty crowded city below. It’s massive scale is filled by a series of cavernous hallways stretching a total of 6 hectares. Interlaced between small shrines and pillared halls are the sanctums of Meenakshi and Sundareshwara. Travelers will know these two gods of Hinduism better as Shiva and his consort Parvati, respectively.

On the day I visited, the sun was shining. Every surface was awash in color. Every color was more vibrant than the last. Expected crowds were no where to be found. Each room, each hallway was inspiring. Each shrine had an infinite amount of stories to tell. Each devotee had a purpose in being there. There was no smell, neither good, neither bad. There were no harsh sounds, only energy. There was no rush. It was effortless. It was rewarding.

Entry and Tour

Entry into Sri Meenakshi Temple is free as is custom with all Hindu temples. Pick-up guides are available near the eastern gateway known for being the common entry point for foreign visitors. Guides are not mandatory yet well advised for first time visitors. Deciphering appropriate directions can be challenging given most signs are written only in Tamil script, similarly most of the temple volunteers speak only Tamil.

A tour begins at Ashta Shakthi Mandapa where the resident temple elephant is on display, posing for photos and accepting snacks as blessings from followers. Next to this hall is the Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa, a spacious columned hall filled with shops selling puja supplies. Garish over-the-top portraits of gods illuminated by twinkling lights are the sole force other than natural sunlight marking pathways. The kitsch factor registers high until closer inspection when the brilliance of individual pieces can be seen. Particular note should be taken of the pillar sculptures in this area which tell stories of Lord Shiva’s miracles as well as the story of Parvati’s birth and her life as the princess of Madurai.

Ashta Shakthi Mandapa leads into the Thousand Pillar Mandapa. There are actually just 985 pillars here, each hand sculptured. A temple art museum housed in this area (filled with photographs, drawings, and paintings plus stone and brass work) is stressed as a highlight, however more impressive is a large statue of Nataraja silently watching over all who stop to pay their respects. Cop a squat on the floor with others to engage in a solemn meditation.

Find your way past the great courtyard to reach Swami Sundareswara Shrine. Non-Hindus will only get as far as the Mukkuruni Vinayagar (Lord Ganesha) shrine, also the last part of a tour. This area is a feast of rituals, marked by devotees who pay respects to many one of the surrounding shrines.

Appropriate attire is required for entry. This means shorts are not allowed for men, for women short skirts and sleeveless shirts are not permissible.

Allow a minimum of 2 hours for a guided tour. Early to mid-mornings or late-evenings are the best times to beat crowds. Water is allowed inside. Toilets are a bit of a challenge to find, plan ahead.

Negotiate a fee with guides prior to embarking on a tour. A good guide will have relationships with shop owners across the street who, albeit begrudgingly, will allow tourists to use their rooftops as an aerial photo opportunity for a small fee. Tourists will have to endure pressure to browse in the shop(s) afterward, a fair deal given the views above.

#MadMeenaskhi

The 8th century Hindu temple is more commonly known as the Rock-Cut Temple because it’s inner most shrine is cut out of solid rock, something I was keen on seeing before leaving Madurai. My female travel partner and I ventured by foot from our room at Alps Residency (located on the opposite side of Thirupparamkundram Hill) to have a look at this famous temple one evening toward dusk. Having stayed over the night before, we felt comfortable with the distance and lay of the land. That is, until we entered into the town limits. The addition of two foreign tourists seemed an usual sight for this area, and it prompted unlimited stares from both sides of the street. Tuk tuks which normally slow in the hopes of earning a fare zoomed past empty. And foot traffic nearly came to a stop while pedestrians took a good look at us as we continued toward our destination. Is this how eunuchs feel I wondered?

A frenzied crowd of visitors entered and exited Thirupparankundram Temple with constant pace upon our arrival. The exterior is certainly something to behold for first time viewers, another likely reason my travel mate and I drew attention from others. Beautifully carved pillars emblazoned in bright colors support an over-sized mandapa before leading to the sanctum sanctorum marked with an impressive gopuram from above. Puja sellers mixed with food vendors hold position in front of the pillars as if only an obstacle in the way of a better spot to reach customers. A myriad of signs, few of which are written in English, do nothing to aide confused tourists looking for direction to enter the temple.

Another work day had come to an end flooding the streets with impetuous men eager to get their daily needs before heading home for dinner. Families were also beginning to enter temple for evening prayers so I too became anxious to get in before the crowds outnumbered my comfort level. But, the light of the day was slipping fast which meant if I were to get any daytime photos of Thirupparankundram Temple I had to do it right then. My female companion and I walked down an adjacent road to get landscape photos of the temple entrance, an action which only drew more attention to us. I entered into tourist mode looking for the right angles, interesting landmarks, and generally anything of note while my travel partner recapped the crude hand and facial gestures she endured during our walk of notoriety. I felt uneasy in a way I’d never experienced in India up to this point. I was embarrassed for my partner yet awakened to how women are treated at times as tourists, a feeling I surely had not witnessed before as a solo man traveling in India.

My mind quickly assessed our situation; from the late hour, the disappearing light, our distance back to the homestay, and our self generated transportation mode, we were best to skip a visit inside in lieu of a more pleasant walk back to familiar ground. Ultimately our spur of the moment decision to visit Thirupparankundram Temple ended with a slightly sour taste in our mouths. But I’ll be back someday to pay my respects to Lord Subramanya (for whom the temple was built) with a fresh attitude. Until then, don’t let my journey to Thirupparankundram stop you. And of course if you’ve been I’d love to hear your thoughts.

#MadRockCut

Exploring the cavernous Sri Meenakshi Temple of Madurai is an experience unlike many other temple visits in India. Foreign tourists are wisely advised to hire a guides in order to navigate the multiple layers once inside the temple complex. A good guide can help you find that perfect stairwell, one that leads to lofty heights above rooftops where only Sri Meenaski’s numerous gopurams continue on. From there you can fully appreciate the craftsmanship each of the 12 gopurams exudes. Hand crafted idols painted in rich colors tell a story for each new layer swooping upward. No two gopurams are alike. Each one more brilliant than the last.

Popular Tamil film actress Sneha prepares for her next scene on location at the Thirumalai Nayaka Palace in Madurai. By lucky chance my visit to the palace coincided with the film’s shooting. In order to get this shot I had to move quickly in-between the multiple cameras, lighting and crew that surrounded the Kollywood star.

Once you edge your way beyond the crowd into the wide pathway leading to the massive palace doors, a quiet tone begins to quell the conversation of horns and people left behind on the street. The entrance is no more than a crack in the solid wood doors where one has to turn sideways to scoot through. This process is rather amusing compared to most, over-the-top procedures endured at various palaces across the country.

A once opulent palace, which won many admirers, still impresses the casual traveler.King Thirumalai Nayak built the structure in 1683 with the help of an Italian architect; the finished result was aclassic example of the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture and reportedly four times larger in size than what presently remains. The palace was divided into two major parts, named Swargavilasa and Rangavilasa. Today, only the courtyard of Swargavilasa (Heavenly Pavilion) and a few adjoining rooms greet tourists.

Large rounded wall columns bear the weight of ornately finished crown molding wrapping it’s way around the open-air courtyard. The former open space was used for various functions but now has been converted to seating for the nightly sound and light show.

The dance hall located next to the courtyard houses a display of archeological objects, some several centuries old. Oddly, these rare and seemingly priceless works are on full display with no lock or covered cabinet to protect from curious hands.

A partial restoration took place in the 19th century by then Governor of Madras, Lord Napier. Elements of his efforts still show in the richly painted ceilings and murals seen throughout the multiple rooms on display.

Some accounts state the palace is in disrepair, rotting and just a shell of it’s former self. And while this may be true when held against the glory days of the Nayaka rule, this historical landmark is worth seeing.

Tourists should plan on a solid hour to properly explore the palace. Due to the long history, including the partial demolition by Thirumalai’s grandson, visitors would be smart to hire a guide. Pick up guides are available near the ticket booth for a nominal tip.

Entry fee Rs 50 + Rs 50 camera fee.

Monkeys and locals linger after closing of the hill top temple

The small town of Thirupparankunram, 6 km southwest of Madurai, lies behind the sacred granite hill where visitors must climb 500+ stone cut steps to reach the hill top temple. Hindu mythology considers this place as one of the six sacred abodes of Murugun, the son of Shiva. This granite hill was the site of his marriage to Devayani, the daughter of Indra.

Beginning of 500+ steps leading to the top

Accessed right off the main road, visitors are greeted with the spectacular sight of red and white striped steps leading to the top. The red color symbolizes energy while white is the color of peace, purity and truth. A temple is a symbolic combination of both the colors. Mandapa-like structures are placed at ascending heights marking progress as well as white and black oval numbers painted every 10 steps. Atop these carved pillar structures are mini-gopurams adorned with richly detailed deity painted carvings.

Don’t confuse this temple with the rock-cut temple (Thiruparankunram Temple) located on the backside of the granite hill. While the rock-cut temple is packed with locals, sadhus, beggars and the usual street gawkers, my travel partner and I were virtually alone during our climb to the top.

Pace yourself with updates painted every 10 steps

We knew the temple hours had passed before embarking on the mini-trek, yet we were compelled to see the views and what devoted followers endured to perform their puja. We needed to stop many times to catch our breath. The steps are rather tall requiring a person to be in fairly good physical condition.

Fortunately Kamal, the caretaker extraordinaire from our stay at Alps Residency, had come along as our guide. As we reached the top, he grabbed a sizable stick which he explained was protection from the numerous monkeys that laid claim to the hill top. Views from the top steps take the eyes across the landscape for several kilometers before the typical Indian haze cuts in. Farm fields, a few roads and the river can be seen from the temple. And as we already knew, the gates to the temple were closed. A family of 4 was mingling around the entrance, maybe just leaving or caught by the seemingly early 6 PM closing time. The small temple, seemingly hanging onto the cliff edge, was neither glitzy nor glamorous. No throngs of followers were to be found here

Tourists should plan several hours for this stop, mainly allocated for the time it takes to maneuver up and down the rock steps. Temple is open from 9-6. No admission fee, shoes are allowed up to the top.

Don’t let the lackluster website of Alps Residency question a different location for your stay in Madurai. On the contrary, this property should be your only consideration for superior service and comfort. I must thank owner Krishna Kumar, for having me and my travel partner as his personal guests during our short visit to Madurai. He couldn’t have made us feel more at home.

Glass dining hall at Alps Residency

City limits of Madurai are several kilometers away leaving behind the noise and congestion the populated area is known for. The tree lined gated property of Alps Residency, is actually in Thirupparankunram; a small town centered around the sacred granite hill. Short walks in either direction lead to the town center, the rock-cut temple and Thirupparankunram Temple.

After a day of sightseeing tourists can relax in the generously sized guest rooms with views (depending on your room) of the hill, landscaped property or swimming pool under construction. Staying on-site all day isn’t a bad idea either. After breakfast, taken in the A/C cooled glass dining hall, relax on the front verandah soaked in sunlight or retreat to your private sunning patio. All the comforts of home can be found in the newly built residence from a flat screen TV, mini fridge, WiFi, large comfortable beds and of course, western facilities ensuite.

The real highlight of my stay was getting to know the caretaker, Kamal. This young, outgoing but shy man had nothing but smiles any time he walked past. Any request was greeted with a yes, not that I had many.

Kamal and FSI Author

Kamal’s English inflections were amusing with even the simplest words bringing smiles to both my travel partner and me. Set a time for breakfast or dinner and he was punctually ready to greet you in the dining hall, meal on hand. Guests, by default, are served a Continental breakfast unless Indian is requested. Our request both days was met with a curious, yet large smile and a jubilant “really?” from Kamal.

The dinner menu at Alps Residency is rather edited requiring careful consideration. We enjoyed a terrific meal of chicken chilly and aloo masala our first night. So good in fact, I expressed an interest in eating fish for dinner the following evening. This request was met with a special run to market the next morning at 6 AM., and the meal did not disappoint.

Idli with outrageously spicy, yet tasty chilly chutney

You have to dig past the surface to find information on the historical temples and sites nearby Alps Residency. Off the tourist path, other than the guests transported beyond the front gates, don’t expect to see many, if any, other tourists venturing out on the road. The neighborhood is a bit unflattering requiring smart concentration of your personal space. Females should not venture out without a male when walking into town. But don’t let this deter you from experiencing a completely different side of Madurai. Krishna Kumar has several exciting projects planned to grow his booming property so get here while the intimate charm of just 4 guest rooms persists.

Customers are faced with two dining options: A/C hall or non A/C. Some restaurants charge extra ( 15% and up) for the use of the A/C dining room, but Bell Jumbo does not. Inside the cool dining room are rows upon rows of perfected lined tables and chairs. It’s like walking into a cafeteria at any school except the diners are a eclectic mix of Hindus, Muslims, Jains and Sikhs. Not to mention the foreign tourists spilling in and out.

Several servers speedily walk through the organized rows dispensing orders of food, refilling water pitchers and clearing tables. Our menus were brought just as we sat down next to the wall lined with glass. Enough sun shines through these windows to keep the lights off. With so many choices on the extensive Indian, Continental and Chinese menu, our server had to wait a few moments to get our order. Waiting for the meal gives diners an excellent opportunity to people watch. Gazing through the faces seated around us was like pinning countries on the world map. European tourists far outnumbered any other location besides local Indians.

Orders were frantically pushed out of the kitchen as waiting servers picked up trays of hot, steaming goodness. Our meal of dal fry, veg biryani and raita was basic in concept but high on flavor. The temperatures were pushing 95º making a light lunch a smart choice.

You won’t find music overhead, no place mats or any other frills at Bell Jumbo at this Tamil Nadu favorite. High turnover, low cost and good food served quickly is the concept here and worth a repeat visit. Total Cost Rs 370 ($8.20)

A morning of sightseeing in the hot, unforgiving heat of Madurai actually left me hungry come lunchtime. My driver, Selvamraj, recommended Hotel Supreme as a neat and clean, comfortable place to grab lunch. I took him at his word and climbed the steps into the hotel lobby. Easy signage led me to the entrance for Surya, the veg restaurant. Starting off my experience was ice cold air blowing through the dining room…ahh, relief.

Madras Thali

The usual staples are on the menu but what the businessman lunch crowd seems to go for is the smartly priced thali specials. My travel partner and I each chose to follow the herd, ordering the Bombay and Madras thali.

With limited wait time our thalis (hindi = plates) arrived taking up much of the table. These were not your usual thalis, these plates were massive. An impressive array of bowls filled with various dishes surrounded the outer rim leaving our “breads” in the middle. Like clockwork, the server came with a serving bowl filled with rice to dispense onto each plate. Seconds are generally available anytime you order thali.

My Bombay version was far more than I could work through. Unfortunately I left at least half behind so come very hungry or plan to share with another. Once the plates were cleared hot water with lemon was brought to clean the hands. Afterward, the bill arrived with a plate of bananas and beetle leaves stuffed with sweets.

Lights are turned off thanks to the large picture windows allowing sunlight in. The service was extremely prompt and friendly which makes up for the slightly drab decor. As a tourist, many times you’re forced to eat at hotels due to time constraints and/or the driver’s concern for your satisfaction. Hotel Supreme was an excellent choice located in the crowded markets of Madurai, just 2 blocks from the rail station.

Rs 275 ($6) included both thali, 1 bottled water, lime soda and tip.