Twelve intricately carved colorful gopurams reaching skyward create the view of a towering skyline among the dusty crowded city below. It’s massive scale is filled by a series of cavernous hallways stretching a total of 6 hectares. Interlaced between small shrines and pillared halls are the sanctums of Meenakshi and Sundareshwara. Travelers will know these two gods of Hinduism better as Shiva and his consort Parvati, respectively.

On the day I visited, the sun was shining. Every surface was awash in color. Every color was more vibrant than the last. Expected crowds were no where to be found. Each room, each hallway was inspiring. Each shrine had an infinite amount of stories to tell. Each devotee had a purpose in being there. There was no smell, neither good, neither bad. There were no harsh sounds, only energy. There was no rush. It was effortless. It was rewarding.

Entry and Tour

Entry into Sri Meenakshi Temple is free as is custom with all Hindu temples. Pick-up guides are available near the eastern gateway known for being the common entry point for foreign visitors. Guides are not mandatory yet well advised for first time visitors. Deciphering appropriate directions can be challenging given most signs are written only in Tamil script, similarly most of the temple volunteers speak only Tamil.

A tour begins at Ashta Shakthi Mandapa where the resident temple elephant is on display, posing for photos and accepting snacks as blessings from followers. Next to this hall is the Meenakshi Nayaka Mandapa, a spacious columned hall filled with shops selling puja supplies. Garish over-the-top portraits of gods illuminated by twinkling lights are the sole force other than natural sunlight marking pathways. The kitsch factor registers high until closer inspection when the brilliance of individual pieces can be seen. Particular note should be taken of the pillar sculptures in this area which tell stories of Lord Shiva’s miracles as well as the story of Parvati’s birth and her life as the princess of Madurai.

Ashta Shakthi Mandapa leads into the Thousand Pillar Mandapa. There are actually just 985 pillars here, each hand sculptured. A temple art museum housed in this area (filled with photographs, drawings, and paintings plus stone and brass work) is stressed as a highlight, however more impressive is a large statue of Nataraja silently watching over all who stop to pay their respects. Cop a squat on the floor with others to engage in a solemn meditation.

Find your way past the great courtyard to reach Swami Sundareswara Shrine. Non-Hindus will only get as far as the Mukkuruni Vinayagar (Lord Ganesha) shrine, also the last part of a tour. This area is a feast of rituals, marked by devotees who pay respects to many one of the surrounding shrines.

Appropriate attire is required for entry. This means shorts are not allowed for men, for women short skirts and sleeveless shirts are not permissible.

Allow a minimum of 2 hours for a guided tour. Early to mid-mornings or late-evenings are the best times to beat crowds. Water is allowed inside. Toilets are a bit of a challenge to find, plan ahead.

Negotiate a fee with guides prior to embarking on a tour. A good guide will have relationships with shop owners across the street who, albeit begrudgingly, will allow tourists to use their rooftops as an aerial photo opportunity for a small fee. Tourists will have to endure pressure to browse in the shop(s) afterward, a fair deal given the views above.

#MadMeenaskhi

The well groomed tourist path encircling Rajasthan, located in the northern expanse of India, skips Bundi by a wide margin in favor of more popular destinations such as Jaipur, Pushkar and of course, Jodhpur. Yet Bundi Fort, perched high above the city within the Aravali Mountains, offers a magnificent panoramic vista highlighted in pops of blue which easily rivals that of Jodhpur. Many different explanations for the blue hue have been given over the years, none of which anyone has officially settled on. So I went on a quest to find the real reason both Jodhpur and Bundi have a strong affinity to the color blue.

Some say that blue is associated closely with Lord Shiva, one of Hinduism’s most revered gods whose skin turned blue at the expense of drinking poison, and that the blue houses of the old city belong to families of Shiva followers. While this is a justifiable explanation, it fails to explain why dozens, hundreds or even thousands of villages across North India don’t also partake of the blue paint given Shiva’s immense popularity in this region.

Still others explain that blue is associated closely with India’s priestly caste of Brahmins. Therefore the blue houses of the old city surely belong to families of that caste. Consequently they are frequently called “Brahmin Houses”.

Confused as to who was closer to the truth, I asked my guide at Bundi Fort (who wished to remain unnamed). The well educated, sharp and witty man offered four simple reasons why blue was the predominate color in Bundi and Jodhpur.

1. Blue paint is 40% cheaper than other colors. Thus, blue homes are believed to belong to owners of less means.

2. Built in theft deterrent. Thieves are more likely to think the owners of homes painted in colors other than blue are rich.

3. It’s a natural repellent to mosquitoes and other insects. Various ingredients such as limestone additives to copper sulphate to indigo dye are added to whitewash to achieve the blue tint. Which agent really works to repel insects is arguable.

4. Blue paint deflects the sun’s rays making homes cooler in summer time.

Simple answers for a simple question. Find yourself atop Mehrangarh Fort and Bundi Fort for the best glimpses into the blue cities of Rajasthan, another fascinating find of India that does not disappoint.

#BlueRJ

Aside from Ganesh, Hanuman is one of the most easily recognizable Hindu gods to travelers of India. He is known as the Monkey God, and his popularity in India is something to behold. Thousands of temples devoted to Hanuman are scattered throughout the country. He is the Hindu deity known for courage, strength and devotion. Followers pray to Hanuman to remove sufferings and also to fulfill wishes.

Why the Monkey god? Physically he is half human and half monkey. Many images exist of Lord Hanuman, the most common is of a monkey head atop a strong, very well built human body with two arms and a long tail. He is always with his mace (weapon). Despite his monkey features, he behaves as a human. It is believed Hanuman has unlimited powers, able to fly as well as change the size of his body as needed.

Hanuman played an important part in the Ramayana (great Indian epic). He is depicted as the epitome of loyalty as well as being the wisest and strongest of all the monkeys. He is a devotee of Lord Rama, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, whom he helped in the battle against the demon king Ravana.

Travelers of India will discover small ancillary temples near Vishnu temples because of their relationship in the Ramayana. Many stand alone temples devoted solely to Hanuman also exist and are believed to keep an area free of evil. More common are small shrines or mini temples which pervade city neighborhoods and villages. These sites devoted to the Hindu monkey god Hanumun are easily distinguishable by the bright orange paint covering his face and/or body.

Hanuman’s popularity and celebrated status as a Hindu deity have aided in the complex relationship Indians have with the menacing langur monkeys. These pesky creatures, also known as the Hanuman monkey, can be relentless in their search for food. Many tourist sights and livable areas of India are overrun by the langur monkey. Indians never physically attack a monkey. When shouting and swatting don’t work to keep monkeys away, metal cages are often built around patios, windows and other living spaces. The death of a monkey by way of a moving vehicle is treated as a great loss. Typically a sheet or other covering is used to lie over a still body.

Other names used to reference Hanuman:

Prasannanjayena- cheerful mood

Dhayananjaney- meditative mood

Veeranjaneya- ferocious mood

Bhaktanjaneya- devoted mood

Anjaneya or Anajaniputra- after his mother’s name Anjana

Ramduta- messenger of Rama

The clean, quiet environment of Jagdamba Temple, backdropped by the gorgeous rolling Dhauladhar Mountain Range, starkly contrasts that of Chamba’s temples situated within it’s crowded city center. Numerous homestays and/or guest houses are situated near the temple within walking distance.

Jai Jagdambe Mandir is open to all faiths, yet Shaivas from near and far are sure to appreciate Khajjiar’s newest tourist attraction the most. Plan to take 10-15 minutes exploring the impressive effigy resembling one of Hinduism’s more popular and important gods before moving onward.

Image

Ganesha is recognized by his elephant head, symbolic of auspiciousness, strength and intellectual prowess. The largest and strongest animal of India, the elephant is gentle, affectionate and loyal; These are also the qualities of Ganesha. Although he is a powerful god, he is known as a loving, forgiving deity. Ganesha’s large head is symbolic of the wisdom of the elephant. His large ears allow him to hear everything yet able to separate good from bad, reality from the unreal.

He is a short man, usually shown with red or yellow skin, and four to ten arms and a pot belly. It is said his obesity  is symbolic of the whole universe for which his belly contains. His trunk, always bent, is a symbol of discrimination. Ganesha uses it to remove obstacles to achieve religious ends. According to the strict rules of Hindu iconography, Ganesha figures with only two hands are taboo so he is primarily shown with four arms.

Vehicle

Ganesha’s vehicle is the mouse or rat. It is symbolic of a rat’s ability to creep through small holes, to slip unobserved into places not thought possible, a representation of wandering, wayward minds. Idols of Ganesha show the rat or mouse as subservient to the elephant god; an implication that the powers of Ganesha’s discrimination have tamed the rodent.

Symbols

As many as 57 symbols have been attributed to Ganesha. He is normally shown with one hand in the abhaya pose of protection and refuge and the second holding a sweet (modaka). Sweet balls are symbolic of the sweetness in the realization of the inner self. In the two hands behind him he often holds an ankusha (elephant goad) and a pasha (noose). The noose is to convey that worldly attachments and desires are an illusion, thus a trap. The goad is to prod man to the path of righteousness and truth. The broken tusk that Ganesha holds like a pen in his lower right hand is a symbol of sacrifice, which he broke for writing the Mahabharata (One of the two major Sanskrit epics of ancient India, the other being the Ramayana).

Birth

Multiple tales tell of slightly different origins for Ganesha. The most popular story ( in the most basic form) tells us that Mother Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, once wanted to take a bath. She created a boy from the dirt of her own body, asking him to stand as a guard outside while she bathed. As this transpired Lord Shiva returned home to find a stranger at his door. As instructed by his mother, the boy prevented Lord Shiva entrance. In anger, Shiva cut off the boy’s head, upon which Parvati was stricken with great grief. In an act to console her, Shiva sent out his troops with instructions to obtain the head of the first living being encountered. They found an elephant sleeping and thus brought back its head. Shiva then attached the elephantine head to the body of the boy and revived him. He named the boy Ganapati or commander of his troops, and granted him a boon that anyone would have to worship him (Ganesha) before beginning any undertaking.

Names

One hundred Eight (108) names are synonymous with the Hindu god Ganesha. Among the most commonly spoken are Ganesh, Ganesha, Ganapati, and Vinayaka. These names are born from the manifestations of Ganesha. According to the Ganesha Purana (Book of Ganesha), Lord Ganesha had four manifestations. Other accounts place 32 other manifestations upon Ganesha.

Followers

Devotees of Ganesha are known as Ganapatyas. His images can be found in households, businesses and temples across the country, for he is much admired by all. Tourists with travel around India will also fall in love with the portly man who holds great respect among Indians.

Hindus worship the holy plant in morning and evening times. In fact, tulsi is so revered in India, a Hindu household is considered incomplete if it doesn’t have a tulsi plant somewhere in residence. Specially built planters with images of deities installed on all four sides are popular choices for familial tulsi plants. Travelers will see most temples have a potted tulsi plant located within high traffic areas. The stems, leaves, seeds and even the soil are considered as holy. Tradition calls for the plant base to be covered in a layer of cowdung where at night, a lamp is lit near it.

Modern stories tell a tale of a woman known as Tulsi believed to be one of Lord Vishnu’s lovers. His wife Lakshmi, jealous of her husband’s affections toward this other woman, turned her into a plant. Depending on who you speak with, some people believe that Tulsi and Lakshmi are the same person. Yet in traditional Hinduism, Tulsi is worshipped as a deity. She is considered as an incarnation of Sri Mahalakshmi who was born as Sri Vrinda. Tulsi devi is also known as an exalted devotee of Lord Krishna. Scriptures stress on the importance of worshipping Tulsi devi to make progress in the path of devotion. The glories of Tulsi devi are mentioned in Skanda purana and other devotional literature of Hindus.

When Tulsi devi was on the earth, she was married to demon Jalandar. He was the king of oceans and had immense powers. When demoniac people get powers they exploit it by harassing others. Demon Jalandar did the same thing. He started exploiting everyone around. But as he was married to a great devotee, none of demigods could harm him. Finally Lord Vishnu intervened the matter as He was kind to His devotees. Lord Vishnu disguised himself as Jalandhar and stayed with Tulsi. When Tulsi devi came to know about this she decided to give up her body and turn into a plant. Lord Vishnu changed Himself as stone called Shaligram. Then Lord Vishnu declared that those who perform the sacred marriage of Tulsi devi with Vishnu will get great merits and devotion.

Whether observing the modern or traditional version, Vaishnavites or followers of Lord Vishnu worship the tulsi leaf believing it’s the one that pleases Lord Vishnu the most. Many establish small forests in their houses by planting dozens of tulsi plants. Such miniature basil forests are called ‘Vrindavan’ or ‘Tulsivan’. They also wear beaded necklaces made of tulsi stems whose manufacture is a cottage industry in pilgrimages and temple towns.

Tulsi plant on display in a typical Indian household courtyard

Other rituals involving the holy basil include special Tulsi puja in the Kartik month. It is the time of the Tulsi vivah (marriage). On this day ‘Tulsi’ is decorated and colored as a bride. And it is a common custom to place a sprig of tulsi near the head of a dying person.

Within the ayurvedic industry tulsi is considered the queen of herbs. It is known as the”elixir of life” promoting longevity and a cure-all for many common ailments such as the common cold, headaches, stomach disorders, inflammation, heart disease, various forms of poisoning and malaria. Indians will also boastfully claim tulsi is a natural repellent to mosquitoes, flies and other harmful insects. Additionally the aromatic leaves, while harsh to the taste buds, can be taken as a digestive after meals.

The holy Yamuna River, also referred to as Jamuna, begins at the Yamunotri glacier near Banderpoonch peaks, in the Mussoorie range of the lower Himalayas. Yamunotri, source of River Yamuna also forms the seat of Goddess Yamuna. Readers of the wildly captivating read, Sacred Waters, will recognize Yamunotri’s significance as one of the four pilgrimage sites comprising the Char Dham Yatra. There is a sacred shrine of Yamunotri or Yamnotri, near this source at an altitude of 3235 m. Pilgrims make their way to a temple dedicated to the Goddess Yamuna, after the winter snow melts around May until the following November. A hot water pool at Yamunotri is used for the preparation of Prasad or offering, which is cooked in cloth bags by dipping them in the hot water. According to legends, Yamuna was Sun God or Surya`s daughter, and was the sister of Lord Yama, the God of Death. Indian folklore states people who dip in the sacred waters of Yamuna River are not besieged by death or fear.

The river provides irrigation and drinking water and generates electric power. The surroundings of the river attracts abundant wildlife and ecological species. Yamuna has also become severely polluted as with many of India’s rivers. Eighty percent of the country’s urban waste goes directly into the rivers. To combat the effects of years of runaway waste from manufacturers, slums, and the public casually using the river as a landfill, India has thus far spent $500 million in conservation and reclamation efforts. But reports show the pollution levels have continued to rise. With the 2010 Commonwealth Games hosted in Delhi, India began another round of investment into Yamuna’s health. An additional $500 million has been planned for the construction of new water treatment plants and other ancillary projects.

Open season of the famous Char Dham Yatra pilgrimage does not translate well with the tourist season. Travelers unable to dip in the clean Yamuna source will have to set their sights upon its flow further downstream. Himachal Pradesh holds several beautiful spots to visit the river in a pure form. Beyond HP, tourists can easily spot the Yamuna in Delhi, however a better opportunity rests in Agra. Spectacular views come from the high perch near the rear minarets, an area most visitors don’t venture toward. Near the Taj Mahal there is a nature walk with backside views of the monument as well as the river. Allahabad presents the final opportunity to view the Yamuna. Here the popular pilgrim spot, Triveni Sangam, is the site of confluence of river Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati. It is also the site for Maha Kumbh Mela.

Shiva literally means “auspiciousness, welfare”. He is the third god of the Hindu Triad and is the destroyer of all evil. He represents darkness (tamas), and is said to be the ‘angry god’. However, according to Hinduism, creation follows destruction. Therefore Shiva is also regarded as a reproductive power, which restores what has been dissolved. As one who restores, he is represented as the linga or phallus (Shivalinga), a symbol of regeneration.

He has a 1,008 names, including Mahadeva (the great god), Mahesh, Rudra, Neelkantha (the blue-throated one), and Ishwar (the supreme god). He is also called Mahayogi, or the great ascetic, who symbolises the highest form of austere penance and abstract meditation, which results in salvation.

Shiva is believed to exist in many forms. His most common depiction is as a dark-skinned ascetic with a blue throat, usually seated cross-legged on a tiger skin.

Shiva’s hair is matted and coiled on his head, adorned with a snake and a crescent moon. Ganga is always depicted flowing out of his topknot. Shiva has four arms and three eyes. The third eye, in the middle of his forehead, is always closed and only opens to annihilate an evil doer. A garland of skulls, rudraksha beads, or a snake hang from his neck. Shiva also wears snakes as armlets and bracelets. The serpent race, despised and feared by all other creatures, found a place of honour on Shiva’s sacred person, simply because he was moved by their plight.

In one hand, Shiva holds his trishul, the Pinaka. The trishul usually has a damaru or waisted drum tied to it. In another hand, he holds a conch shell and in the third, a rudraksha rosary, a club, or a bow. One hand is usually empty, raised in a gesture of blessing and protection. The other points to his feet, where the devotee is assured of salvation. He wears a tiger or leopard skin around his waist, and his upper body is usually bare, but smeared with ashes, as befits an ascetic. His third eye is believed to have appeared when Parvati, in a playful mood, covered his eyes with her hands. Immediately, the universe was plunged into darkness and there was chaos. To restore order, Shiva formed another eye on his forehead, from which emerged fire to restore light.

The light from this eye is believed to be very powerful, and therefore destructive. Shiva opens his third eye only in anger, and the offender is burnt to cinders.

The name Shiva does not appear in the Vedas. However he is identified with the Vedic god Rudra, lord of songs, sacrifices, nourishment, the healer of diseases and provider of property. According to the Shiva Purana, Shiva is said to have five faces, corresponding to his five tasks, the panchakriya: creation, establishment, destruction, oblivion, and grace. His five faces are associated with the creation of the sacred syllable Om.

Lord Shiva is said to live on Mount Kailash, a mountain in the Himalayas. His vehicle is Nandi the bull and his weapon, the trishul. Shiva’s consort is Parvati, who is also believed to be a part of Shiva. One of the most popular forms of Shiva is that of Ardhanarishvara.

According to a story in the Puranas, Brahma was unsuccessful at creation. He propitiated Shiva who took this form and separated Parvati from his body. Parvati has many incarnations, like Kali, Durga, and Uma. Their sons are Kartikeya and Ganesha.
Shiva is believed to have a large number of attendants, called ganas. These mythological beings have human bodies with animal heads. Shiva’s son Ganesha is the leader of the ganas.

Across the country, there are hundreds of temples and shrines dedicated to Shiva. He is usually worshipped in the form of a shivalinga, and also as an idol. He is worshipped by offering flowers. Ketaki Brahma Bel leaves, milk, and sandalwood paste are also pleasing to him. There is a special arati to Shiva and many hymns and poems in his praise.

There are many stories in the Puranas about the origin of Shiva. According to the Vishnu Purana, at the beginning of this kalpa Brahma wanted a child and meditated for one. Presently, a child appeared on his lap and started crying. When asked by Brahma why he was crying, the child replied that it was because he did not have a name. Brahma then named him Rudra, meaning “howler”. However the child cried seven more times and was given seven more names. Shiva therefore has eight forms: Rudra, Sharva, Bhava, Ugra, Bhima, Pashupati, Ishana, and Mahadeva, which, according to the Shiva Purana, correspond to the earth, water, fire, wind, sky, a yogi called Kshetragya, the sun, and the moon respectively. During the samudra manthan, when poison was churned out of the ocean, Shiva is said to have swallowed it to save the world from destruction. As he drank the poison, Parvati clasped his throat tightly so that the poison remained there and darkened his neck. Because of this, he is known as Neelkantha, the blue-necked one.

Shiva granted a peculiar boon to a demon called Bhasmasura, who wished that if he placed his hand on anyone’s head, that person would turn to ashes. No sooner was his wish granted than he menaced Shiva himself, who took to his heels and was saved by Vishnu, in the form of Mohini, the enchantress. Induced by Mohini to join her dance, the demon soon killed himself by placing his hand on his own head. Shiva and Mohini combined their energies and produced Hari-hara putra (Vishnu-Shiva’s son), later identified with Sasta or Aiyappa, a celibate tribal deity in Kerala, whose cult is now enormous in India.. He lives on in Mohiniattam, the feminine counterpart of Kerala’s dance theatre, Kathakali.

Shiva is the creator of dance and of the first 16 rhythmic syllables ever uttered, from which the Sanskrit language was born. His dance of anger is called the Roudra Tandava and his dance of joy, the Ananda Tandava. All the gods and sages were present when he first danced the Nadanta Tandava, a characteristically vigorous dance, and they begged him to dance again. Shiva promised to do so in the hearts of his devotees and in a sacred grove in Tamil Nadu, where the great temple of Chidambaram was built, the only one in all India dedicated to Shiva as Nataraja, the lord of dance. It is believed that on the 13th day of each bright lunar fortnight (see Hindu Calendar), after 6 o’clock in the evening, falls a sacred hour called Pradosha. Worshiping Shiva at this time is akin to worshiping all the powers in the universe, for this is the time when all the gods are believed to have assembled on Kailash to lose them in the ecstasy of Nataraja’s dance. Source- Gurjari.net

Vishnu, (from the Sanskrit root ‘vish’, to pervade) is the second god of the Hindu triad and as the preserver of the universe represents mercy and goodness. He is said to be the cosmic ocean nara, meaning water, which was the only thing in existence before the creation of the universe. For this reason, he is also known as Narayana, or “one who moves on the waters”.

Vishnu is represented as a dark man with four arms. In one hand, he holds a club, in another a conch shell, in the third, a discus (Chakra), and in the fourth, a lotus (Kamal). He is usually dressed in yellow robes and therefore also known as Pitambara, or “one with yellow garments”. The river Ganga is said to originate from Vishnu’s feet. He is also depicted as resting on a coiled serpent Seshnaga or Ananta which floats on the cosmic ocean. According to the Mahabharata, Vishnu’s abode, Vaikuntha, is made of gold and jewels. However, he is usually depicted reclining on Seshnaga, who floats on the cosmic ocean. His vehicle is Garuda (Eagle- Half Man, Half Bird), and his weapon is the discus, Sudarshana Chakra.

Vishnu’s consort is Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and fortune. She is believed to have emerged from the samudra manthan, and considered to be the daughter of Bhrigu and Khyati. She is a fair woman who wears red clothes, and is always depicted as sitting or standing on a red lotus (see Kamal). She is often worshipped by herself as Sri, Bhagya Lakshmi and Dhana Lakshmi, the goddess of all things auspicious, of good fortune and wealth.

Vishnu is a very popular deity and is widely worshipped. The Vishnu Purana details the benefits of his worship. He has a 1,000 names, whose repetition is believed to bring great merit. He is also worshiped as Satyanarayana. Apart from this, there are many other vratas and festivals related to Vishnu. A variety of ammonite fossils, the shalgrama shila, is believed to be a form of Vishnu and is widely worshiped. There is also a specific arati associated with Vishnu, which eulogizes him. Those who believe in the supremacy of Vishnu over Shiva are known as Vaishnava. They can be distinguished by their tilaka, which is different from that of Shiva. Vishnu as the preserver is not mentioned in the Rig Veda. In the text, he is considered to be the manifestation of solar energy. His role as the preserver was established by the Puranas.

The Padma Purana describes him as the Supreme Being, identifying him with Brahman . It states that Vishnu, wanted to create the universe. To this end, he divided himself into three parts: from his right side, he produced Brahma the creator; from his left, he produced Vishnu, the preserver; and from his middle, he produced Shiva, the destroyer.

Vishnu has several avataras. According to the Puranas and the Mahabharata, whenever there is an imbalance between good and evil on the earth, Vishnu, as the preserver, is born to re-establish the balance. The Bhagavata Purana, among other sources, say that there are 22 avataras of Vishnu. However, the widely accepted belief is that there are 10 avataras, known as the Dashavatara. All the 10 avataras are revered, but the seventh, Rama, and eighth, Krishna, are believed to be great heroes and worshiped as gods in their own right. Of Vishnu’s 10 avataras, the first four are believed to have occurred in the Krita Yuga, the fifth, sixth, and seventh in the Treta Yuga, the eighth in the Dvapara Yuga, and the ninth in the Kali Yuga. The tenth avatara has yet to appear, and it is believed that he will come at the end of the Kali Yuga.

10 Avataras of Vishnu

1. Matsya, the fish:  Appeared in the Krita Yuga. Vishnu assumed this form to save Vaivasvata, the seventh Manu, from the universal deluge that occurs after each Manvantara.

2. Kurma, the tortoise: Assumed to act as a pivot for Mount Mandara and protect the earth during the samudra manthan.

3. Varaha, the boar: Hiranyaksha, a demon, had dragged the earth to the bottom of the sea. He had also obtained a boon from Brahma, ensuring that he would not be killed by any of the creatures he named. However, while doing so, Hiranyaksha omitted to name the boar. Therefore Vishnu assumed this form and dived to the depths of the ocean. After defeating the demon, he balanced the earth on the horn above his snout and surfaced safely with her. Narasimha, the man-lion. After severe penance, another demon, Hiranyakashipu, had been granted a boon by Brahma.

4. Narasingha, the lion: Vishnu according to which he would die neither by day nor at night, neither indoors or outdoors, and be killed by neither man nor beast. Considering himself invincible, he became a tyrant. In order to kill him, Vishnu assumed the form of a man-lion. He killed Hiranyakashipu at twilight on the threshold of his palace. But the demon’s son Prahalada was an ardent devotee of Vishnu and won his favor.

5. Vamana, the dwarf: The first avatara to appear in the Treta Yuga. Vishnu assumed this fifth incarnation to subdue Mahabali, a demon king, who by performing severe austerities, controlled heaven, earth and hell. The gods were shorn of their power and significance. When Mahabali performed an important sacrifice, Vishnu turned up as Vamana, the dwarf-Brahmin son of Kashyapa and Aditi. He asked Bali to grant him as much land as he could cover in three steps. When Bali agreed, as he was bound to by custom, Vamana grew to a gigantic size, and in two.

Vishnu steps covered heaven and the earth. However, he left Patala, the netherworld for Bali, who had to offer his own head for Vishnu’s third step to be completed.

6. Parashurama, ‘Rama of the axe’, a Brahmin, born to the sage Jamadagni and his wife Renuka. His father suspected his mother of infidelity and ordered Parashurama to behead her with his axe. He did so and when his father granted him a boon in reward, he asked to have his mother back. She was deified later as an incarnation of Parvati.

Parashurama was born to annihilate the Kshatriyas, who had fallen into evil and oppressive ways, led by the insolent king of Mahishmati, Kiratarjuna, who eventually killed Jamadagni. In revenge, Parashurama tried to wipe out the entire Kshatriya caste 21 times, but each time a few escaped. According to the Puranas, Parashurama was successful in his last attempt . He then went to the shores of the Arabian Sea and flung his bloodied axe into the ocean, which yielded up the verdant, spice-laden land of Kerala. Thereafter, he retired to meditate. He appears briefly both in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.

7. Rama, the ascetic-prince of Ayodhya: Widely worshipped in the north as the embodiment of human perfection and the killer of the demon-king Ravana, but remains controversial for the treatment of his consort, Sita. After being kidnapped by Ravana and rescued by Rama, she had to undergo a public ordeal by fire to prove that she had been left chaste while in capture. Though Agni himself returned her with all honour to Rama, he nevertheless banished her to the forest some years later, while she was pregnant, because of the ramblings of a drunk washerman berating his own wife.

8. Krishna, the eighth incarnation: Krishna was born to destroy his evil uncle, Kansa, who had usurped the throne of Mathura. He played a crucial role in the Mahabharata and fully revealed his divinity as the expounder of the Bhagavad Gita to Arjuna. Like Rama, Krishna is a popular deity and is widely worshiped. His death is believed to have marked the beginning of the Kali Yuga.

9. Buddha, the enlightened one: Founder of Buddhism. The inclusion of the Buddha as one of the Dashavataras is clearly an attempt to incorporate Buddhism into Hinduism. Vishnu is believed to have taken the form of the Buddha to encourage evil people to despise the Vedas, and reject the caste system and the deities. In this way they would effect their own destruction. This incarnation appeared in the Kali Yuga.

10. Kalki, the rider: This tenth incarnation of Vishnu is yet to appear on earth. It is believed that Kalki will ride a white horse and wield a flaming sword with which he will destroy all evil. The coming of this fierce horseman will mark the end of this present age of evil, the Kali Yuga, after which purity will reign once again in another Treta Yuga. Source- Gurjari.net

Kathakali is based on Hinduism and is a highly charged and powerful drama that combines devotion and physical virtuosity with symbolic storytelling, to produce one of the most impressive and vibrant forms of theatre in the world. Source- Kathakali.net

Although the show was scheduled to start at 6:30 PM, the performers apply their customary make-up on the same, intimate-sized stage, where the program takes place. Guests begin arriving as early as 5, when the doors open, to find the best seats. There are no rules here; guests may approach the stage to snap as many photos they desire with very little attention paid by the performers. Once the make-up is applied by the individual performers, paper which completes the appearance of dancers wearing a mask is applied by another artist. Together with the individual performers, this artist works (with very little words) in an efficient manner to apply specially cut paper around the make-up.

The show begins with a fast moving, informative introduction to Kathakali; Specifically regarding the facial expressions and their meaning. Wearing two hats, the speaker also makes up one of the musicians who have moved onstage by now. The background is set, the house lights fade, and the show begins. An hour later, like clockwork, the audience applauds and we’re free to leave.

Would I return to see this performance again? Absolutely! It didn’t hurt that Selvam had called ahead requesting two front row seats for my travel partner and me. This gesture, along with my earlier reluctance to attend, began to feel like a Dr. Aziz- Passage to India moment. I narrowly missed insulting my driver. To see a dance performance so seeped in Indian tradition, is not to be looked upon as a tourist trap as much as an opportunity to understand just one more thin layer of the onion that is India.

A suggestion for those who will also take in this show: Wear light weight clothing and carry in a bottle of water or some refreshment. The theater is tight in size. Even as the A/C blew, the internal temperature rose higher and higher as the performance went on and on. Outside the theater is a small juice bar serving up delicious fruit smoothies along with many other cold drinks. Drinks are allowed in the theater.