The 8th century Hindu temple is more commonly known as the Rock-Cut Temple because it’s inner most shrine is cut out of solid rock, something I was keen on seeing before leaving Madurai. My female travel partner and I ventured by foot from our room at Alps Residency (located on the opposite side of Thirupparamkundram Hill) to have a look at this famous temple one evening toward dusk. Having stayed over the night before, we felt comfortable with the distance and lay of the land. That is, until we entered into the town limits. The addition of two foreign tourists seemed an usual sight for this area, and it prompted unlimited stares from both sides of the street. Tuk tuks which normally slow in the hopes of earning a fare zoomed past empty. And foot traffic nearly came to a stop while pedestrians took a good look at us as we continued toward our destination. Is this how eunuchs feel I wondered?

A frenzied crowd of visitors entered and exited Thirupparankundram Temple with constant pace upon our arrival. The exterior is certainly something to behold for first time viewers, another likely reason my travel mate and I drew attention from others. Beautifully carved pillars emblazoned in bright colors support an over-sized mandapa before leading to the sanctum sanctorum marked with an impressive gopuram from above. Puja sellers mixed with food vendors hold position in front of the pillars as if only an obstacle in the way of a better spot to reach customers. A myriad of signs, few of which are written in English, do nothing to aide confused tourists looking for direction to enter the temple.

Another work day had come to an end flooding the streets with impetuous men eager to get their daily needs before heading home for dinner. Families were also beginning to enter temple for evening prayers so I too became anxious to get in before the crowds outnumbered my comfort level. But, the light of the day was slipping fast which meant if I were to get any daytime photos of Thirupparankundram Temple I had to do it right then. My female companion and I walked down an adjacent road to get landscape photos of the temple entrance, an action which only drew more attention to us. I entered into tourist mode looking for the right angles, interesting landmarks, and generally anything of note while my travel partner recapped the crude hand and facial gestures she endured during our walk of notoriety. I felt uneasy in a way I’d never experienced in India up to this point. I was embarrassed for my partner yet awakened to how women are treated at times as tourists, a feeling I surely had not witnessed before as a solo man traveling in India.

My mind quickly assessed our situation; from the late hour, the disappearing light, our distance back to the homestay, and our self generated transportation mode, we were best to skip a visit inside in lieu of a more pleasant walk back to familiar ground. Ultimately our spur of the moment decision to visit Thirupparankundram Temple ended with a slightly sour taste in our mouths. But I’ll be back someday to pay my respects to Lord Subramanya (for whom the temple was built) with a fresh attitude. Until then, don’t let my journey to Thirupparankundram stop you. And of course if you’ve been I’d love to hear your thoughts.

#MadRockCut

Halebid’s Hoysalewara Temple and Belur’s Chennakesava Temple are artistically similar in many fashions. Each of the Hindu temples is built on a star shaped platform with small shrines flanking steps toward temple doors; each temple is adorned by multiple layers of stone friezes depicting horses, lions, elephants, and garlands topped by larger panels of carved deities; and each temple has unique stone screen covered mandapas. What differs at Hoysalewara Temple (and again for those that start at this location before moving on to Belur you’ll want a guide to walk you through the intricacies of Hoysala craftsmanship) is the open space surrounding this complex. Where Chennakesava Temple is entirely engulfed within a massive wall and block courtyards, the Hoysala temple of Halebid is gorgeously set upon a grassy open field butting against a small lake, all under the shade of swaying palm trees and manicured foliage.

Eighty seven years in the making, construction is believed to have started around 1121, yet this awe inspiring temple devoted to Lord Shiva was never completed before the Hoysala Dynasty fell victim to invasion. Intricate carvings have somehow escaped centuries worth of sun, rain and pollution albeit much damage can be spotted.

An archaeological museum within the temple complex houses hundred of Hoysala stone carvings. An entry fee is required, however, unless you fancy yourself a historian, the bulk of what is to see can be viewed simply by walking toward the lake. Many of the artifacts are in plain view behind a ramshackle wire fence. Be careful with cameras as photography is said to be prohibited.

The only other reason to stop at the museum’s small ticket booth is to peruse a thin but rewarding collection of books for sale. Most are written in Kannada while a few titles can be found in English. Finding an attendant for purchases is an exercise in patience.

A statue of Nandi the Bull sits quietly at the end of a path near the lake’s edge. Tourist, tout and monkey free, this is a terrific spot for photos, prayer or lunch. Wash basins and toilets are located adjacent the museum.

Another extra-curricular activity after completing your sightseeing is stopping for a picnic lunch under any number of shade-rich trees near the temple. You’ll find several families with the same idea as it’s a great way to enjoy some time (especially with kids) before moving on.

Extra time should be factored into any itinerary to properly enjoy this temple. Depending on the time of day, late morning/early afternoon sun can be brutal during most seasons. Bring a brolly, hat, lots of sunscreen and bottled water for this tourist delight. Plan a minimum of 1 – 2 hours. If time permits do make a side trip to Kedareswara Temple just a few minutes away.

The style in which this Hindu temple was built couldn’t be any more opposite than the other temples of Chamba. Instead of a stone shikhara and small attached mandapa, the Chamunda Devi Temple is made entirely of wood and sits atop a raised platform of large stones. A covered hallway (mandapa), is seamlessly integrated into the temple construction looking more like a small, humble home with a porch than the temple devoted to goddess Kali.

The mandapa has intriguing carvings in in its multi paneled wood ceiling with numerous heavy brass bells hanging at different lengths. Ceiling carvings show depictions of human figures as well as on the pillars and brackets. Inside the inner shrine, a red cloth can be seen wrapped around the main deity. Visitors will notice all the hindu deities placed around the temple complex are wrapped in the same red cloth embellished with gold trim. Behind the main temple is a small shrine of Lord Shiva in the Shikhara style.

Walking the stone step path requires a minimum of 30 minutes, beginning near the bus stand. Spectacular views of the town’s landmarks below as well as the wooded mountains only add to the experience of visiting Chamunda Devi Temple. Sunsets dipping below the rugged landscape are especially beautiful times to linger on benches under mature trees covering much of the temple property.

Entry is open to all persons.

When built, Hari Rai Temple was away from the original town of Chamba. That is, until the official entrance to this hillside city in northern Himachal Pradesh was moved so as to enter directly through Gandhi Gate and subsequently right past the temple. Today tourists enter Chamba via a different route, leaving this edge of town a dusty stopping point for wayward travelers before turning back toward the more famous Laxmi Narayan Temple.

Temples in Chamba are nearly all designed in the North Indian Nagara style of architecture; a shikhara or layered tower stands directly above the inner sanctum. Hari Rai Temple is an ancient example of this design type, albeit a compact version. It’s squat shikhara and small courtyard, a far cry from the massive temples of South India, sit atop a stone platform accessed via stairs. The temple is famous for it’s stunning bronze image of Lord Vishnu in the form of Chaturmurti (An aspect of Vishnu when he has a body of human being and heads of a man, a lion, a boar and a demon). Visitors will share space with the handful of Indian tourists who come to pay their respects, however, this temple is more popular among Chamba’s full time residents.

Continue past the Hari Rai Temple to view the Shitla Bridge crossing over Ravi River. Legend states the river once flowed so close to the temple that followers had to wade across to reach it.

It’s hard to be unbiased at times when first seeing new sights of India. Some fall into the pattern of ho-hum, I’ve already seen this at INSERT TOWN NAME HERE, or THERE, and then there are tourist destinations like Hadimba Temple in Manali. The ancient temple located in the small village of Dhungri far in the northern reaches of Himachal Pradesh, is mentioned in nearly every India guide book as something spectacular to see. On closer inspection, the question I have is, why?

From the moment visitors step out of their car or arrive by tuk tuk or taxi, they are accosted by touts. And these aren’t the annoying young Indian men hawking postcards or selling various trinkets one doesn’t need. These touts are a mix of older and younger Himachali women carrying bright white, massive angora rabbits. Rabbits you say? Yes, rabbits. Because nothing says “Look at the photos of my trip to India” like posing with a complete stranger holding a rabbit behind a pagoda temple. After a few weeks or even days of India travel it becomes rather easy to dismiss street sellers. Yet these Indian woman have honed their selling tactics to crack even the coldest of hearts. Indian tourists stop to pose, giggling through the click click click of their family’s camera. From the way they are reacting to the rabbits it seems as if this is their first encounter of seeing an animal. Clearly they are from the city. Probably Delhi.

Hadimba Temple is also known as Dhungri Temple due to it’s location within the village which shares the same name. Dirt paths through the dark forest of deodar trees line the way to the temple from the jammed parking lot of cars and buses. But just as you thought you could move beyond the rabbits to take in the fantastic architecture of Hadimba Temple, here come the yaks. Yaks you say? Yes, yaks. Because nothing says “I went to India and all I got was a photo on this lousy yak” like, well, riding a yak. It starts to sink in that this whole experience is nothing more than one big tourist trap. Waving off a yak ride is much easier than trying to say no to the rabbit ladies who flash sad faces and walk as if they have the hips of 80 year grannies.

Finally it’s time to explore the temple, a rather spectacular building completed in 1553. A four tiered pagoda roof tops the base made of wood timbers and mortar. It’s main facade is made entirely of intricately carved wood paneling. The religious history of the Hindu temple is quite involved, and goes beyond the few Hindu deities which most foreign tourists come to know during their travels. Suffice to say the temple was named after a demoness, Hadimba, who meditated here. She eventually attained the position of Durga. Thus, the sanctuary is built over a rocky crevice covered by a large rock that is worshiped as a manifestation of Durga.

A 3 day event held every May at Hadimba/Dhungri Temple of Manali, adds even more circus to the already withstanding fair-like setting of rabbits and yak rather than any religious connection. Rides, merchants, bands and dancers come together to celebrate the local people and their culture. What it amounts to as a small county fair designed to bring tourists into Manali. Foreign travelers may be turned off by the enormous amount of garbage and clutter which amasses by the end of the festival, as well as the size of crowds.

Hadimba Temple is best seen early in the day before the usual sightseeing crowds gather. Dense forest encapsulating the temple creates beautiful photo backdrops, and the winding pathways leading to and from the temple are perfect for scenic walks. At a distance of only 1.5 kms from the hill station of Manali, it’s easily walkable from the Mall. I wouldn’t recommend it be at the top of your list of things to do in Manali, however it’s a popular destination to take an early morning stroll if you have spare time.

#HadimbaTemple

First mention of a visit to Karni Mata Temple in the dry, dusty town of Deshnok, Rajasthan, generally leads to the same response. “Ewwww, no thanks”! A quick glance of any India travel guide description turns the stomach of most readers. Yet, many visitors take time to travel the short distance from Bikaner (30 kms). Curiosity gets the best of most tourists, especially when they see local residents clamoring through the front gate in hopes of spotting the white rat. Yes, rat.

Constructed by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner, in the early 1900s as a tribute to the rat goddess, Karni Mata, the Hindu temple is home to thousands of rats who live in harmony among the tourists, priests and followers. Karni Mata, a mystic matriarch from the 14th century, was an incarnation of Durga, the Hindu goddess of power and victory. Deshnok became the chosen location as Durga’s father found her future husband in the remote Rajasthani village. Time-lines are sketchy, although there are claims the rats have reportedly been living here for 6 centuries.

A daily diet of milk, water and sweets provided by the temple keeps the rats scampering throughout the complex. As with any Hindu temple, no shoes are allowed, forcing would be visitors sometimes to make a hard decision. Do I walk bare foot over the marble floor where thousands of rats have roamed? After the initial reluctance, a change in body language tends to wash over those that had doubts. In fact, it’s well known to be good luck if a rat crosses your feet. Another rumor of good luck lies in eating any uneaten portion of food a rat previously nibbled. This one might stretch the imagination too far. No reports of sickness, plague or other medical issues have been reported.

A local Rajasthani band plays under the shade of the courtyard as followers perform puja with the Brahmin priest inside the main shrine. Rats dash to and fro with smiles and cheers from foreigners. As for the white rat, I was “lucky” enough to spot one right before leaving.

Plan an hour for the rat temple of Deshnok. Deshnok, Rajasthan, offers little else for sightseeing so there is no need to stay on after viewing the Karni Mata rats. Refreshments plus various trinkets are sold across the street from Karni Mata Temple.

Bus and train service run daily between Bikaner and/or Jodhpur. Taxis as well as private car service can also be hired in either city.

#KarniMata

A book from 2009, by author Susan Sessions Rugh titled Family Vacation, recently caught my eye. Retro in style, the book creatively captures the heart of the age-old family vacation. Colorful family photos mixed with travel advertisements from the late 50′s through mid 60′s recount an era when it was so easy to pack up the kids into a station wagon, all points heading West. And it dawned on me that traveling India is like a classic 1950′s family vacation.

Arrival

Tourists fly into 1 of the 5 major airports of India; where, if they pre-booked a tour using an Indian travel agency, they are greeted by a local representative.  Each guest is welcomed with a traditional garland of marigolds, placed over their heads, followed by “namaste” as two palms pressed together signal a warm Indian style hello. Sound familiar? A very similar welcome is performed for visitors to the tropical island of Hawaii; Just swap out marigolds for the traditional Hawaiian lei and “Aloha” as the customary greeting.

Transportation

Wood paneling emblazoned on the sides of station wagons were all the rage during the 40′s, 50′s and 60′s. Families crammed themselves into the inside open cargo space leaving little to no room for luggage. The result? Bags were strapped to the roofs of these behemoths in all sorts of crazy fashions. One hoped it didn’t rain, and prayed the straps would hold as a fast moving semis roared past.

Flash forward to the automobiles in India today to find SUV’s the most popular choice to move around visiting groups and families. Indian drivers play the traditional role of the father helping to secure excess luggage overhead while adjusting seats for passengers inside. Indian SUV’s can hold as many as 7 adults in relative comfort as their luggage soars above them. One thing that hasn’t changed is the hope for no rain, and that the precious cargo stays in place as traffic speeds past.

Monuments

Interstates were becoming a more common means to travel quickly between two points during the 1960′s. But families relied on the more familiar, smaller highways as their means to move about on vacation. Why? Roadside attractions sprung up throughout the country as the automobile craze brought more and more traffic into formerly undiscovered areas. Word of mouth spread from town to town, state to state, turning some local monuments into famous, must see destination sites.

India is experiencing this same boom as expanded, well groomed roads spread further into the countryside. Foreign tourists freely travel from city to city often stopping to stretch tired legs at respected local temples, once opulent grand forts and palaces, and famous gardens. These monuments built in traditional Hindu and Muslim buildings provide glorious photo opportunities to share with relatives back home. Handicrafts sold nearby entice tourists to draw out their wallets in the same way as American gift shops. Who can pass up the chance to purchase a hand-made, one-of-a-kind rock carved in the shape of Ganesh? Not me!

Food

Popular "Palace" of Rajasthan offering a large buffet for hungry tourists

Owners of diners off-the-beaten-path desperately wanted to draw the hoards of vacationing families of the past. It just took some simple marketing tactics. Adding the word “famous” or “favorite” to a restaurant’s name peaked the interest of parents eager to keep vacations fun and exciting. The chance to tell friends and family back home that you ate at Ruth’s Famous Cafe overtook the logic in driving 20 or more miles off the main highway. And once there, the dining experience was a mixture of kitsch and adequate food. T-shirts and trinkets added to the experience while siphoning funds from dad’s wallet.

Indian highways are littered with signs from restaurant owners hoping to draw hungry passing tourists into their establishments. Many use the tactic of adding “Fort”, or “Palace” to their signs as a way to peak the curiosity of foreign travelings eager to see famous sights or find unknown local haunts. Large parking lots of tourist vehicles greet passengers who quickly realize the attraction is nothing more than a tourist trap.

But for the tourist traveling with a driver, good food can be found at well known Indian restaurants called dhabas. These local cafes are located directly off the roadside providing easy parking, large menus, toilets, and a place to stretch. Smaller dhabas offer quick service of cheap, filling food in a comfortable spot with easy access back to the highway. Larger dhabas entice customers with vibrant garden surroundings, gift shops, clean western toilets, flat screen TV’s and play areas for kids.

Accommodations

Clean, honest family motel with large rooms, food and parking for low rates

Drive-in motels were the common choice for the tired traveling family of the 1950′s-60′s. Clean rooms, pools, easy parking and a place to grab breakfast were enough to draw in car after car. Newer, larger hotel chains offered more amenities leaving older mom and pop’s to linger on the vine.

Tourists of India with pre-planned, travel agency itineraries, are typically booked into modern hotel chains offering the usual amenities of western brands. Yet smaller, independently owned motels offer more character, service, experience and value. Owners can help arrange local visits to popular locales, suggest the best eateries in town as well as offering room service of freshly prepared meals on site, recommend local merchants to design clothing or where to shop.

Come one, come all! The highways of India are waiting for you to rekindle the feel of a 1950′s vacation.

Image

Ganesha is recognized by his elephant head, symbolic of auspiciousness, strength and intellectual prowess. The largest and strongest animal of India, the elephant is gentle, affectionate and loyal; These are also the qualities of Ganesha. Although he is a powerful god, he is known as a loving, forgiving deity. Ganesha’s large head is symbolic of the wisdom of the elephant. His large ears allow him to hear everything yet able to separate good from bad, reality from the unreal.

He is a short man, usually shown with red or yellow skin, and four to ten arms and a pot belly. It is said his obesity  is symbolic of the whole universe for which his belly contains. His trunk, always bent, is a symbol of discrimination. Ganesha uses it to remove obstacles to achieve religious ends. According to the strict rules of Hindu iconography, Ganesha figures with only two hands are taboo so he is primarily shown with four arms.

Vehicle

Ganesha’s vehicle is the mouse or rat. It is symbolic of a rat’s ability to creep through small holes, to slip unobserved into places not thought possible, a representation of wandering, wayward minds. Idols of Ganesha show the rat or mouse as subservient to the elephant god; an implication that the powers of Ganesha’s discrimination have tamed the rodent.

Symbols

As many as 57 symbols have been attributed to Ganesha. He is normally shown with one hand in the abhaya pose of protection and refuge and the second holding a sweet (modaka). Sweet balls are symbolic of the sweetness in the realization of the inner self. In the two hands behind him he often holds an ankusha (elephant goad) and a pasha (noose). The noose is to convey that worldly attachments and desires are an illusion, thus a trap. The goad is to prod man to the path of righteousness and truth. The broken tusk that Ganesha holds like a pen in his lower right hand is a symbol of sacrifice, which he broke for writing the Mahabharata (One of the two major Sanskrit epics of ancient India, the other being the Ramayana).

Birth

Multiple tales tell of slightly different origins for Ganesha. The most popular story ( in the most basic form) tells us that Mother Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, once wanted to take a bath. She created a boy from the dirt of her own body, asking him to stand as a guard outside while she bathed. As this transpired Lord Shiva returned home to find a stranger at his door. As instructed by his mother, the boy prevented Lord Shiva entrance. In anger, Shiva cut off the boy’s head, upon which Parvati was stricken with great grief. In an act to console her, Shiva sent out his troops with instructions to obtain the head of the first living being encountered. They found an elephant sleeping and thus brought back its head. Shiva then attached the elephantine head to the body of the boy and revived him. He named the boy Ganapati or commander of his troops, and granted him a boon that anyone would have to worship him (Ganesha) before beginning any undertaking.

Names

One hundred Eight (108) names are synonymous with the Hindu god Ganesha. Among the most commonly spoken are Ganesh, Ganesha, Ganapati, and Vinayaka. These names are born from the manifestations of Ganesha. According to the Ganesha Purana (Book of Ganesha), Lord Ganesha had four manifestations. Other accounts place 32 other manifestations upon Ganesha.

Followers

Devotees of Ganesha are known as Ganapatyas. His images can be found in households, businesses and temples across the country, for he is much admired by all. Tourists with travel around India will also fall in love with the portly man who holds great respect among Indians.

Visitors to the temple are greeted at the roadside by an imposing bank of steps. Above and slightly out of sight is the main hall, which stands on 50 pillars beautifully decorated with carved figures in stone. Two over-size elephant statues carved of stone welcome visitors and devotees at the main entrance located at the top of the stairs. An inscription referring to Maharaja Jagat Singh is also to be found here. To reach the main shrine, visitors must climb a marble flight of 32 additional steps. It is at that point where a brass image of Garuda, a figure of half-man and half-eagle, sits protected under a small raised shrine. This huge idol stands as if it is guarding the doorway of Lord Vishnu.

The main shrine houses the remarkable four-armed image of Lord Vishnu carved out of a single piece of black stone, shrouded in flowers. The outer walls of the shikhar (or steeple) above the idol are decorated with sculptures of dancers, musicians, horse riders and elephants. Walls and ceilings inside the temple are decorated with painted scenes. Four smaller shrines encircle the main shrine housing the idol of Lord Vishnu. These shrines are dedicated to Lord Ganesha, Sun God, Goddess Shakti and Lord Shiva.

Welcome elephants of Shree Jagdish Temple

Every year, people from far and near come to visit this holy place of worship. The temple continues to be an important pilgrimage stop for sadhus passing through the lake city. Women selling flower garlands sit patiently awaiting tourists and religious followers in front of the main staircase. Sadhus are situated along the main staircase on flat slabs of stone where they pray, eat, sleep and beg for money before they travel to their next destination. Shree Jagdish Temple of Udaipur provides a good opportunity for tourists to snap photos of authentic sadhus; permission should be asked beforehand along with a small offering of Rs 5-10 for each person photographed.

Entry is free. Removal of shoes in mandatory. Be prepared for large groups of tourists and locals.

Once the ruler of Mysore, Tipu Sultan completed construction of the palace within the fort (built in 1537 by Kempe Gowda, who was the founder of Bangalore) by 1790. Bangalore Fort provided safety for Tipu Sultan against the imposing British. But the armed forces whom Tipu had grossly defeated twice before, became a more challenging opponent. In 1791, just one year after the completion of the palace, all that remained of Bangalore Fort was the palace and the armory. Today, visitors enter through Delhi Gate, the only part of the fort that still exists.

The palace structure, built primarily of teak wood, is a replica of his summer retreat Daria Daulat Bagh located in Srirangapatnam. Two-stories of intricately carved arches, pillars and finely embellished balconies greet the curious. The original painted decorations are all but gone, not surprising given the palace’s age. Gardens on both sides of the main pathway lead from the fort’s wall to the palace entrance. Brilliant pops of color are present as far away as the roadside.

A well maintained temple devoted to the Hindu God, Lord Ganesh, still stands on the property attracting some followers. Islamic and Hindu architecture somehow mix between the palace and temple respectively. And the tourist flow is steady. The popular and rather congested market of Krishnarajendra City, is steps away from the fort entrance. This creates a bit of a parking issue for car services making it reason #1 why drivers may defer travelers from this site. Tuk tuk’s, buses and taxis will easily get any traveler to the main entrance if your driver won’t.

Entry Fee: Rs 100 / Camera Rs 25

Open Daily: 8:30 – 5:30