Together with the main building (Shahi Palace) and 2 sister properties (Hotel Star Haveli & Hotel Oasis Haveli) within short walking distance, Shahi Palace promises rooms starting from Rs 350 up to Rs 1850. But upon my arrival with no advance booking, the only rooms available were priced at Rs 1550 and Rs 1850, the highest end of the scale. I was met by very curious faces and an almost resistant attitude behind the front desk to show me the rooms. My options were in the newer built haveli buildings fitted with carved doorways and windows finished with brightly lit accent alcoves displaying regional art. Colorful silk drapes perfectly framed windows and dark wood doors seal entry to all rooms. Blended with the famous Jaisalmer golden stone, the newer buildings are rich, delicious to the eye and spotlessly clean. Although I knew there were budget options available, I had been targeted as a rich American. There was no break on the pricing (even with a 3 night stay) but assuaged with information the entire property was sold out the following night. Because of my commitment to 3 nights, they would bump that booking.

Guest rooms are perfectly comfortable in this dusty desert city on the western edge of Rajasthan. Large, spacious beds with crisp linens make sleeping an easy feat if it weren’t for the endless barking dogs throughout the night. Large bathrooms come with western toilets and showers. However, be sure to rise early for enough hot water to satisfy even the shortest showers. Unfortunately there are no TV’s to catch up on world news but all 3 buildings are equipped with WiFi.*

Breakfast is not included in the room rates. Tax is extra if paying with a credit card (a practice which is against their merchant agreement policy). *WiFi is not included in the room rate, a small incidental not shared with me until after I had agreed to the room even though I specifically asked if there was WiFi. Rates are billed at Rs 30 per hour. Guests must buy blocks of time from the front desk where a username and password must be generated to allow individual WiFi access. A public computer is available in each building which was in constant use during my stay. Room service is not available in the sister properties. Want a cup of chai to start your day? You’ll need to walk over to the rooftop of Shahi for that. In fact, if you want anything to eat outside of Shahi Palace, you’ll be required to patronize the rooftop restaurant.

The hub of the operations lies at Shahi Palace. From here the bookings for rooms, safaris and any other reservations travelers require are completed. Bills are settled here and the rooftop restaurant is accessed from this building. Both Haveli accommodations are tended by a staff member who is posted inside the efficient lobbies of each building. From this post they greet guests, answer questions, provide additional towels & soap, and in theory watch the safety of paying guests, turning away strangers from the front door. But the younger Indian male on staff in my building took a liking to the younger Spanish female guests who arrived the same day as me. His demeanor initially went from smile filled greetings and questions about my comfort to uncomfortable displays of affection inside the haveli lobby. The following days saw him sleeping throughout the day and spending his nights in the female’s guest room. So much for making my stay in Jaisalmer unforgettable.

View from Hotel Oasis Haveli of Jaisalmer Fort

Finally, the camel bookings at Shahi are grossly inflated from market prices nearby the fort. A reservation inquiry email from Shahi quoted me rates from Rs 500 to Rs 1050 for Camel and Jeep safaris. In person, those rates were quoted as Rs 800 to Rs 1700 for the same services.

With recommendations by several leading guide books as well as travel websites, Shahi Palace may have once been motivated to satisfy their guest’s needs. Today it’s a business run with indifference, relying on the constant stream of tourists who trust what they read. Contradictory pricing, hidden fees, lack of standard services at other lesser priced guest houses/hotels, and staff who partake in extra curricular activities before the comfort of their salary paying guests make Shahi Palace and it’s sister properties (Hotel Star Haveli & Hotel Oasis Haveli) an accommodation to be skipped.

A popular stop over point for travelers on their way to Bikaner and Jaisalmer, Mandawa and the Shekhawati Region of Rajasthan are home to several fascinating well-preserved painted havelis, forts and temples. The elegantly restored fort-palace Castle Mandawa sits smack in the middle of this small, dusty village of India roughly halfway between Delhi and Bikaner.

On approach, you’re a bit shocked to find the hotel in Mandawa sitting so close to the main road. Traffic here is fast, loud and constant. Up a small hill from the road, past the large main fort gate you come into a small gravel courtyard receiving area. First impressions have you wondering what you may be in for until you see the beautifully painted entrance restored like many of the havelis in town. Friendly, helpful staff dressed in familiar “traditional” Rajasthani attire are quick to assist. Check in is smooth and efficient.

The layout of the palace hotel of India is a hodgepodge of hallways, rooms and walkways. Be sure to mind your head as some of the doorways are quite low. Finding our way to the room from the front entrance took a little practice which adds to the experience.

Inside the room there was plenty of space for two of us to spread out. This extra space applied to the bathroom as well. The shower was oddly placed toward the end of a narrow room,but hey, we had a shower with hot water. The toilet did make horrible noises throughout the night adding to the charm. The matching double beds complete with canopies were comfortable yet squeaky when tossing.

Our guest room was on the top level providing great views of the countryside as well as the grounds of the castle. With few options in this town for neat & clean food, we opted for the buffet dinner served in the outdoor courtyard. Open sided tents line the grassy area, low shrubs hug the pathways to the buffet line or back to the rooms. Inside the tents are large glass tables with comfortable wicker chairs. Bright exterior lights bouncing off the castle walls lit up the dining area with strung lights inside the tents adding to the already relaxing atmosphere.

I had high hopes for the food based on the other accommodations but that is where this Indian hotel fell short. My travel partner and I sampled several dishes, all of which were bland. With the hotel catering to so many foreign tourists I understood their need to keep things rather simple, but there were no other choices for those that wanted spicy Indian food. Several Non-Indian dishes were options as well but I chose to skip those based on the previous choices. I may have been a bit picky; looking over at other tables the guests were not only enjoying their portions but going back for more. After the disappointment of the buffet, I ate packed cereal bars in the room.

For entertainment we were told we “may” get to see a rather famous fire torch artist perform. Sure enough, he arrived and performed, probably like clockwork every night. The display was nothing more than an older gentleman wielding two lit torches doing an odd walk/dance to music back and forth through the main pathway. The other tourists loved the performance but given my food experience, I was rather numb to the whole idea by then.

Breakfast was served upstairs in a central dining area. We woke early that morning to walk Mandawa before the locals rose. Upon returning we found our food choice was a bland buffet of mixed continental dishes. I enjoyed the coffee, picked at my plate and settled for more cereal bars once we left the hotel.

Guide books have been writing more on Castle Mandawa as the Shekhawati Region of the state of Rajasthan continues to grow in popularity. Given the location in the area, it’s a wise choice to bunk for the night and day trip to the other haveli tourist attractions. Food service my have improved since my 2005 stay. Barring uncertain food, the blaring temple music that starts at the crack of dawn may be hard for some to overcome.