There is something to be said for being persistent. While staying at Hotel Sunbird near the Keoladeo National Park of Bharatpur, Rajasthan, a young cow paced the drive in front of a side door. I could see her shifting from each side of the door frame as she watched me enjoy my warm breakfast. Knowing her meals were mostly what she could find along the road side, I was pleasantly surprised to see one of the young Indian men on staff bring her some scraps from the kitchen. I didn’t acknowledge the act of kindness out of concern he may feel embarrassed having been watched. But I’m glad this cow knows where to find a few morsels of real food from a soft-hearted animal lover.

Local Indian restaurants called dhabas stretch the landscape of India’s highways from the furthest reaches of the North, to the hottest beaches of the South. Moving beyond the city limits, tourists quickly see buildings large and small covered in signs reading “Punjabi Dhaba, Sharma Dhaba, or just “Dhaba”. They are what feeds the nation’s traveling population on any given day. So just what is a typical Indian dhaba?

Purpose: A need to feed the traveling population within India has been present for decades. It’s only been within the past 10 years, with the increasing growth of foreign and domestic tourism, as well as the increased salable goods transported, that the demand for more food outlets was realized. Dhabas large and small have sprung up along the roadsides of India in hopes of profiting from the sale of traditional Indian food. Generous helpings of cheap, tasty and nourishing food are served to travelers who have sit in the open air on ethnic bamboo-cots that are often fit for kings or queens.

Small dhaba located in Rajasthan

Design: A small dhaba is usually framed in a simple concrete plastered stall or free standing building located just steps from the main road. Plastic tables and chairs are set in front to draw hungry drivers, and to give a sense of comfort for the weary. The kitchen is never a far walk for the waiter. It may be behind a wall or out in the open depending on how much a factor floor space plays in the finished design. A few tables inside may offer relief from the heat with overflow customers relegated to the outside tables with stifling views of the sun.

Large dhabas dwarf their smaller competitors. Parking lots with attendants, grand entrance signs, billboards advertising for miles beforehand, air conditioned dining rooms, lush tropical oasis like settings and sometimes even attached gift shops give the passing traveler reason to stop.

Over-sized dining rooms with heavy tables and chairs cater to the foreign tourist crowd and middle-class Indian who desires more of a true dining experience while on the road. Flat screen TV’s entertain the newer wired generations and sports fanatics looking for the latest scores.

Aloo Gobi, Eggs Burji + Lime Soda Sweet & Tip= Rs 180 ($4)

Cuisine: It is said that the majority of India’s truck drivers are Punjabi, thus the majority of highway dhabas serve Punjabi food. At closer inspection, this isn’t all that true. A well-known imitation Punjabi cuisine has spread throughout the country, capitalizing on the interest of Indians who experiment with new flavors. Dhabas located in the heart of South India advertise REAL Punjabi Food, yet their kitchens are filled with South Indian cooks.

And the same can be said for dhabas located in North India. Curious tourists with an interest in trying South Indian delights are quickly warned not to try them. Drivers and tour guides know full well that the North Indian cooks are not trained or capable of producing the fluffy goodness of idli as a South Indian. And the fabulous chutneys served alongside. Forget it. It’s just not the same.

Wondering what to order? Stick with the popular dhabas who advertise local foods. Each state has a very distinct regional food which really should be sampled only when traveling within that area. Steer away from Hyderabadi briyani when visitng Punjab. And shy away from Momos when passing through Coimbatore.

South India dhaba right off the highway brimming with greenery

Easy On and Off: Successful dhaba owners know, first and foremost, their location must be easy to access from the highway. Ample parking (always free) is typically provided in front of the building. This is marketing 101, attract more customers by the volume of cars in your lot. Travelers are drawn to a place that looks busy, is easy to reach, and is just as easy to return to the main road.

Open Early, Late and even 24 Hours: Breakfast, lunch and dinner is always on the menu at the nearest dhaba. Travelers rising with the sun can order a cup of chai as easily as the night owl seeking a full meal around midnight.

Toilets: Tourists should be prepared for less than ideal sanitary conditions when searching for toilets, located in the rear, side or separate building adjacent the smaller dhaba. Tourists who followed my advice for bringing TP and wet wipes at all times will have no trouble maneuvering past the Indian toilets.

Larger dhabas know their customer base well, providing cleaner, western facilities often with TP, soap and hand towels.

Wash basins separate from the toilets are always easy to find for a quick hand wash before and after meals.

Employees: It’s a man’s world out there. No where is this more true than Indian dhabas. Men are responsible for the preparation, cooking, serving and cleaning at all dhabas. Females are rarely ever seen other than as cashiers in the busier larger dhaba.

Amenities: Attached hotels plus fun parks, food markets and more are appealing to the customer who needs to stop but maybe isn’t hungry.

This blanket ban on food imported from Japan since the earthquake, which ravaged the northern part of the country, is the first of it’s kind. India mainly imports a small volume of processed food items, fruits and vegetables from Japan. The official statement also said, “Weekly reviews will be carried out by Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI).”

India is a largely self-sufficient country in terms of food sourcing and production. Rice, sugar, lentils, vegetables, fruit, spices, coffee, and tea are just some of the staple crops consumed within, and exported from the country. While the ban will have a slight financial effect on various markets where Japanese imports are relied upon, the food ban carries more social significance of a government appearing concerned for the safety of it’s population.

Construction of the gardens began in 1927 as a beautification phase after the completion of the Krishnaraja Sagar Dam (KRS). The dam (known as Kannambadi to the locals) is a stunning engineering feat. It is located at the confluence of the rivers Cauvery, Hemavati and Lakshmanathritha. Built of a mixture of limestone and brick powder (rather than customary cement), the dam was a multipurpose project designed to supply water for nearby agricultural lands as well as to supply hydroelectric power. The lake which formed behind the dam is one of the largest in India. And it also supplies the numerous fountains located throughout the gardens.

Design

Modeled on the design of the Shalimar Gardens of Kashmir in the Mughal style, the garden is enriched with a number of terraces, parterres, fountains, running and cascading waterchannels, water chutes, lush green lawns, flower beds, shrubs and trees. The River Cauvery below the giant dam divides the garden into two parts which are then divided into 4 areas.

Brindavan Garden

Nearly 2 million people visit this area of the garden complex annually. Sixty (60) acres of meticulously laid out landscaped lawns intertwine with thousands of fountains in different shapes and size, each lit with colorful lamps and set to music. Everyone from couples, families, groups of friends and lots of tourists both foreign and local, come together in the early evening to watch the lighting of the gardens.

Main Gate

Entrance is through the Main Gate area off the enormous parking lot. Public toilets are stationed before the ticket booth. A model of India Gate, Delhi, welcomes visitors into this part of the gardens. From here, food and other refreshments can be purchased before wandering into the other garden areas. This is a very popular spot for locals to meet their friends as well as a perfect opportunity for those with a strong stomach to try some favorite street foods of India.

South Brindavan

Cauvery Statue of South Brindavan

Visitors move toward the area of the garden near the Cauvery Statue known as South Brindavan. Distinct styles of terrace gardens can be seen here. Bougainvillea and allamanda plants are grown on the slopes of the terraces. A lawn is maintained in the terrace garden with annual and perennial flower beds, ornamental hedges in the periphery, dwarf statues and multiple fountains. Water is continuously sprinkling water due to the water pressure of the dam in its full capacity.

North Bridavan

This is the most photographed and most enjoyed area of the gardens. Four extensive terraces  graduate to the top of a ridge. From here, visitors have a birds eye view of the gardens.

Children’s Park

Located beside the South Brindavan towards the right is the Children’s Park. Kids can play on a slide, concrete animals, birds and aquatic species and other structures.

Government Fruit Orchard

The terrace gardens of North Brindavan during the nightly lighting

A fruit orchard spanning 75 acres near the North bank of the Krishnaraja Sagar Dam is also open to the public. Crops grown in the orchard include: Mango, Guava, Sapota, Litchi, Roseapple, Bilimbi, Aonla, Avacado, Malayan apple, Arecanut, and Coconut.

Naguvana Horticulture Farm

Various types of fruit plants and coconut trees are grown here within the 30 acres devoted to this area established in in the early 1970′s. Every year a 10-month Horticulture training program is organized for the rural youth of the nearby district.

Chandravana Horticulture Farm

Coconut and mango are grown in this 5 acre island farm located in the center of the Cauvery River.

Timings

Bridavan Gardens opens at 6 AM daily, however the crowds don’t appear until 6 PM. It is best to arrive early, around 5 P.M., to avoid the hassles of finding parking and waiting for the long queue to cycle past the ticket booth.

Garden lighting: Monday-Friday: 7:00 – 7:55 PM. Saturday and Sunday: 7:00 – 8:55 PM.

Entry Fee: Adult Rs 20 Child Rs 15 Camera* Rs 50. *Camera tickets are checked multiple times throughout the garden by plain clothed attendants. Keep your ticket handy.

Accommodation: Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden Hotel sits atop the highest point of the park with stellar views of the terrace gardens below. The Elephant Bar is a terrific place to grab a drink before the lighting begins. And the on-site restaurant serves delicious meals beginning at 6 PM. The upscale atmosphere doesn’t come cheap.

I first learned of this famous food and drink chain during a stop in Shimla, Himachal Pradesh, where the clientele was local business men dressed in office attire discussing the pressing matters of the day. Here in sunny Kerala, in the southern tip of India, the clientele was smiling children and their school teachers. Tables packed with young kids on a field trip had taken over the dining room, leaving just enough space for my travel companion, driver and me.

Indian Coffee House is well known for several things; Efficient service, good food, honest pricing, no frills. One large menu board is posted for all customers to select from the available South Indian foods. Waiters dressed in bright white matching uniforms circulate the dining room to take orders, deliver food, clear plates and finally, take your money. An order of parotta, vegetable biryani, and vegetable subji arrived within a matter of minutes served on metal plates. Utensils are offered to foreign tourists, a funny sight when viewed against a dining room full of young kids and adults eagerly ingesting the South Indian foods with their hands.

Waiters in crisp white uniforms delivering food, and serving refills from the large metal pot, at Indian Coffee House

If there was ever a time to ask for help perfecting the traditional Indian way of eating, it was now. Food and conversation flowed easily with our table mates, as did the refills of food provided via metal pots, ladled over remains of initial portions by the restaurant’s busy waiters.

Customers can grab a full lunch at Indian Coffee House within 30 minutes. Combine this with clean toilets downstairs and easy parking, it’s no wonder hungry tourists in transit stop in Pattikkad. Smiling, laughing faces both young and old came free of charge on this day.

Cost for 3 people, tip included: Rs 120 ($2.80)

Wondering what to do in Kolkata? Ditch that stale preplanned travel agency itinerary for an authentic tour of the city with Calcutta Walks. Strap on your favorite pair of comfortable walking shoes, you’re about to embark on a guided trek through one of the largest cities in India.

The young upstart enterprise is tackling the West Bengal capital city, long steeped in both Indian and British history, with four explorers from various backgrounds in life. CalWalks (as it is affectionately referred) offers a bevy of traditionally styled historical walks alongside some rather quirky themed adventures. Themed walks explore the historic buildings and avenues of Kolkata or the confluence of cultures in a walk through a local bazar; Go on a religious exploration into the sourcing, crafting and livelihood of Hindu idol makers or tour the European areas of what was once the capital of the British Empire in India.

Unlike other city walks throughout India, CalWalks isn’t focused solely on the heritage aspect of their city. Locals as well as traveling tourists will find the East Kolkata Wetlands Walk, Birdwatcher’s Walk, Photographer’s Walk, and Food Lover’s Walk a fresh alternative to the more conventional tours. And for those looking for the “real India”, Calcutta Walks offers planned walks in a category they dub, Offbeat Tours. Visit a Bengal weavers village to see first hand where some of the muslin cloth famous to this area is produced. Creep into a side of Kolkata, the rest of India refers to as the ‘Dead city’, exploring the British, Scottish, Armenian, Jewish, Greek, Chinese, and War cemeteries which line Park Street. Learn to cook Bengali food with a walk through a local market before heading off to a cooking demonstration, either by a regular housewife or by the owners of the finest restaurants of the city.

Victoria Memorial Walk with CalWalks

Regular half day and full day city tours last for up to 4 hours and more than 6 hours respectively. Costs vary based on length of walk, package type and additional customization. Can’t walk for that long or just don’t feel like it? Take a motorbike or cycle tour through the city. Customized coach and car tours are also available.

Feeling tired from all this activity? Calcutta Walks has partnered with artists to hoteliers to retired professionals, even past princesses, to offer authentic overnight homestays. Continue your day away from the commercial side of India by spending the night in a typical Indian household. Wake up to a traditional Bengali breakfast and a new way of looking at India.

The proximity of the two storied, open-roof restaurant to the popular Kathakali dance hall allows guests the option of stretching tired legs before dinner. Patrons ascend narrow rickety metal steps to reach the modest sized rooftop dining area. Packed with 7 tables each able to seat 4, there were 0 customers. It was too late to turn back. The owner was coming up the steps with menus, water and a giant smile. My mind was quickly conversing with my gut instincts to run. It was obvious my driver had some sort of a relationship with the owner for which he would receive a complimentary meal or some sort of baksheesh for bring me here.

Heat and humidity, a long drive earlier in the day and even more sitting during the Kathakali dance performance left me with little appetite. That evening’s special of grilled prawns spoke to me which I combined with an order of peas curry. A foreign couple found their way up the stairs and into the chairs overlooking the street followed shortly by yet another couple. Nearly every table was filled by the time my simple fare arrived. South Indians doesn’t fuss with food like their northern counterparts. An unassuming plate of grilled prawns served with lemon wedges, no gravy, came with no sides or garnish and unfortunately no spices. The accompanying peas in a deliciously light curry sauce helped offset the rather dry prawns.

Couples will really enjoy the intimate atmosphere of Krishna Kripa Seafood. Low lighting mixed with simple tableclothes and potted plants makes for a kitschy and relaxed setting in the equally laid back coastal city of Kerala.

On a walk early the following morning I stumbled across Krishna Kripa during the daylight. It’s owner and fellow staff men were already awake, cleaning and prepping for that evening’s crowd. Alongside the building was my driver washing his car. In exchange for my business the previous night he received dinner, a place to sleep, bathe, park and wash the car, and breakfast. Call that true Fair Trade.

With only one night in Fort Kochi this would not be my first recommendation, however, it’s reasonably priced compared to the more affluent choices closer to the tourist properties. At just Rs 855, this was a meal easily swallowed by the wallet.

Skip the masala gravy for a dry variation on this traditional Indian meal

The video below from one of my favorite cooking sites shows simple step by step preparation for paneer tikka masala.  As with the marinade, the gravy spiciness can be adjusted. You can always serve with a side of curd or raita to cool the palette.

Variation

Skip the masala gravy. Place the marinaded paneer pieces on a baking sheet. Set the oven to broil and cook for 10 minutes on the first side. Turn the pieces over and broil for 6 additional minutes. You can also add chunk pieces of tomato, onion and green pepper as desired. Serve immediately over rice or as a side dish. Easy, tasty and healthy.

10. Poverty

A woman begs on the streets of Delhi with her son wrapped in gauze with henna used to look like blood.

Poverty is almost always at the top of the list of excuses why potential tourists will not travel to India. Comments such as, “I couldn’t bear to be around all that poverty”, or “How do you deal with beggars all the time?” come to mind. Poverty is an inescapable fact of our society. But India isn’t chock full o’ beggars as many would believe. According to the most recent survey conducted in 2007, India tied for 83rd place among the countries with populations living below the poverty line. With 25% considered living in or near poverty, India ranked above many other well traveled tourist destinations such as Kenya, South Africa, Brazil, Nepal and the Virgin Islands. United States ranked #121 with 12% of the population living below the poverty line.

With more than 1.1 Billion Indians living in an area roughly 1/3 the size of the USA, it’s undeniable you will see poverty more pronounced. The good news? India is a developing nation with many new exciting labor opportunities. An emerging middle class is a result of the growth in successful IT companies, a booming Cinema industry, Retailers and Manufacturers announcing record product consumption, and of course the tourism industry, which provides many valuable jobs for the working class.

Unfortunately deep seeded ties to tradition (Caste system) combined with the lack of rights for slum dwellers, the desperate need for water (sometimes at the result of river rerouting by way of dams) and the unbelievable immigration of villagers to already bloated city centers has created massive issues for the Indian Government. The reality sounds terrible, yet you find a similar story in many of the most developed countries. Only our poverty is hidden, swept under the rug away from society.

India is not a land of poor people. It’s a nation of determined, hard working individuals who would invite you into their home for a cup of chai even if they had no pot to boil it in. Poverty is not a reason to miss out on the amazing culture, food, historical sites and breathtaking vistas of India. It’s an excuse not to face the realities of how the majority of the world lives.

9. Dirty

A merchant sweeps the main street of Mandawa in front of his business before opening each morning.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness in India. It may be hard to understand this notion upon the sight of roadside trash heaps, plugged open sewers or the constant reminder of no trash cans to dispose of even the simplest items. It’s also difficult to comprehend the sight of a spotlessly clean 5-star hotel or even the home of a typical Indian among this outside mess. Everything has it’s place in an organized system which even Martha Stewart would find impressive. And yet, the key is the mess is outside.

Take a walk around any market or residential area in the early morning. You’ll see countless locals sweeping their front stoop, washing their floors, and in general getting rid of the clutter that entered their house the day before. The breakdown is in disposing of the clutter. Few waste management systems are in place across India. When you do see a dumpster it’s generally overflowing with refuse. Landfills which hug main roads in towns all size are easily spotted. Small rivers and streams flow over obstruction after obstruction of plastic bottles, wrappers and more. The mentality is to get it out of the house or business. From there, it’s believed someone will come along to clean up the mess.

And someone does. Street animals have their first sweep of fresh trash. Food scraps are quickly devoured by cows, stray dogs and birds. Beggars pick through for items of more importance. Finally, there are smaller community organized workers who pick up what remains. Some businesses pay their workers to remove debris as well. Or you might find locals burning piles of trash for warmth, for fuel and for impromptu meeting points where the night is spent in heavy conversation as the embers burn down.

But as with #10, there are so many more people in a cramped area of land. Combine that fact with a young infrastructure system and the general wasteful practices of tourists along with the middle and upper class of India, and you have a recipe for trash. There is a big difference between a dirty country and a country filled with trash. India is the latter, just as with most developed countries. As a tourist I’d rather see the constant reminder to be a more resourceful consumer than to: A) Hide it in massive landfills or B) Ship it off to a country so desperate for cash they’re willing to take someone’s unwanted Barbie doll. Read more about Culture Shock.

8. The Food Will Make You Sick

Use good judgement when indulging in the street food of India. Fried or boiled food is OK.

Yes, this is so true, sort of. You can also become ill on food in France, USA, or Australia if you ingest food that was made in places that don’t practice proper sanitary methods. That can rule out many places in India, though with some smarts, you can be enjoying the famous street food of India with the locals.

Look for popular places with heavy traffic. Food turn is obviously higher here and certainly the locals will not frequent a disreputable location. Avoid dipping sauces that may be exposed to natural elements and/or not refrigerated overnight. Fried foods or boiled liquids are safe to eat due to the heat they endure in the cooking process.

Skip drinking fresh water or ice cubes. Vegetables and fruits that can be peeled are oh so good to eat. Fresh herbs are a risky bet. And meat is touch and go. Reputable locations such as hotels and well reviewed restaurants are fine places to satisfy your meat urges. Skip the local stalls where the butcher works his magic in the back of the building.

7. No Healthcare

Access to healthcare in India is actually very good. While villagers in the most remote areas of the country will rightfully argue with me, tourists traveling along the main routes should have no worries. Clinics and regional hospitals can cover basic medical procedures. If you find yourself in need of help in the larger cities, the inventory of hospitals and private doctor offices will astonish you.

Foreigners are welcome. Forget your insurance. The bills here are satisfied with cash payments that won’t break the bank. Read more about Medical Services in India.

6. It’s Hot

It can be if you visit during summer. If heat isn’t for you try moving into the hill stations as the British did. Cooler daytime temps meld into brisk nights requiring light jackets or wraps. Mornings are met with chilly goodness. You might even see animals wearing sweaters as locals like to ensure their warmth. Read more about When is the Right Time to Visit?.

5. Scams/Theft/Crime

Scams are in every country. As a tourist you’re already a target no matter which country you visit. You probably fell for one the other day. Remember? The President of Nigeria was promising you $15 million if only you would send him your bank account number?

Unfortunately scams are present and do tend to prey on tourists. Indians also fall victim to various scams. If it sounds too good, it generally is too good. Avoid being taken to someone’s cousin’s shop. You’ll grossly overpay. Avoid the street psychic dispensing words of wisdom for no cost. That’s no cost until he’s told you your fortune and then he expects a hefty tip. Roadside police block? Yup, it’s a scam and you’ll have to suck it up and pay the price. Haggling is allowed but won’t get you very far.

What isn’t a scam? Tipping. Everyone gets a cut of your tourist money. You do have to give a small tip to the temple shoe watchers as well as bathroom attendants. Drivers, guides, bellhops…they all get a little something. Read more about Money Safe Travel.

4. Expensive

It's easy to find cheap, clean hotels for under $10. Some even come with views at no extra charge

India is one of the dwindling countries where you can still travel in budget style. Lonely Planet listed India as one of it’s best value destinations for 2010. Bargain flights can be had with some research and timing luck. Budget lodging across the country is simple to find. Hostels, temple and monastery dormitories cost only Rs 100 and up. Meals big enough for two people in many areas cost under Rs 60. International calls made from ICO booths are pennies per minute. Buses, trains and tuk tuks move you around at little expense.

On the other side of the coin, India offers some of the most luxurious options for the high-end traveler. Spas and resorts command hefty nightly price tags while providing a plethora of services. Travel agencies cater to both levels of travelers. To find the lowest possible rates it’s best to follow a DIY mentality relying little on the help of an agency. Read more about How to Write a Travel Budget.

3. Hard to get around

New infrastructure bringing new subway systems combined with existing trains, buses, taxis, and car/driver services has made moving around India easier than ever. City centers can be congested so appropriate routes and/or travel times should be researched prior to getting stuck in long rush hour periods. Outside of metro areas the roads are smooth sailing. Regional bus systems are easy to maneuver. Tuk Tuk’s can take you nearly anywhere. And trains are economical ways to move about long distances.

2. Too many people

Peace and quiet is all around if you look in the right spots

India is one crowded country yet it doesn’t take much struggle to find quiet escapes. You may find yourself elbow to elbow at the most popular tourist destinations, the same being true in your home country. However, Indians like to move about in quick order. No worrying about being stuck in lines with long wait times. Besides, if you don’t want to wait, do what the Indians do…cut in line. Indians are warm, hospitable people with great curiosity. Focus on meeting new friends rather than new found obstacles.

Winter is the peak season for tourist traffic. Yet even at it’s busiest, the only place you’ll feel the pinch is at popular resorts, spas and hotels where rooms will be hard to come by. Book early for the best rates and options or travel on the either end of the tourist season. Arrive by late September/Early October and you’ll beat almost every foreigner other than those staying on a long term excursion. Stretch out the season and budget by arriving in Early March. With nearly no tourists left and bargain rates offered throughout the country, you’ll be seeing the sights and/or relaxing at your hotel in relative peace and quiet.

1. Unsafe

Follow precautions, avoid areas with travel warnings, stay alert.

The Mumbai terrorist attack, in November 2008, resulted in additional security measures being employed across India to ensure safety. Police and other security forces are constantly on high alert in India. Also, keep in mind that the risk of being killed by terrorist activities is almost non-existent compared to other causes of death such as road accidents.

US, UK and AU residents can register with their homeland government travel departments for up-to-date travel warnings. Destinations within India that are deemed risky or sensitive will either require permits issued by local government offices or come with high warnings.

Tourists traveling through agencies are given high priority and thus every precaution is taken for their safety. Budget, trekkers and DIY travelers should familiarize themselves with culturally sensitive areas such as borders, and disputed land areas such as Kashmir.

Be smart, be aware, exercise caution, find reputable advice when needed.

Do you have any fresh seafood today?

The demand for hot meals in Moorang isn’t very high given the desolate surroundings and thin population base. High in the Spiti Valley of the Himalayan mountains, midway between Losar and Kaza, sits just one opportunity for hungry travelers to quell their hunger. Hopefully Tibetan fare meets your approval as it’s all the quiet, slender and friendly, female cafe owner serves.

Foreigners running this well known, but not well traveled Buddhist tourist route typically bunk west of here in Losar or East in Kaza. The proximity to both towns in the Kinnaur District, with western targeted accommodations including complimentary breakfast and many more food options for guests arriving around dinner, allows drivers to pass right through Moorang. But I was marching to a different schedule with stops at the Kaza, Kibber and Ki Monasteries before pulling into Moorang in mid-afternoon. I was hungry, tired and in desperate need of chai.

Main highway which runs through Moorang as seen from Caandi Cafe

The mountain views were noteworthy but you’d never know it from the dark interior of Caandi Cafe. Just a few tables fit inside the cramped cement wall confines. Glass retail counters stocked with pre-packaged sweets, bottled water, paan and other random items for sale took up precious seating space. High on one wall a small color TV played an Indian soap opera. Two kids, probably the owner’s, were seated at the end of a long family-style table enraptured by the TV. A one sided single page menu listed the choices which amounted to noodles with veggies.

Food is prepared in a cramped kitchen blocked by a threadbare curtain. It’s not meant as privacy for the dining patrons as much as an escape for the owner. In short order I received hot, steaming spicy noodles with crisp veggies. Served with chai and more hot sauce, this plate of goodness hit the spot. With a final swig of chai and a payment of the bill (Rs 80), I was out the door in under 20 minutes.

No toilets + no wash basins = pee break behind the cafe followed by a wet wipe washing.