The oldest continuously functioning Buddhist Monastery in India, is found in the remote Himalayan town of Tabo, Himachal Pradesh. Tucked between the Spiti River and mountain peaks on both sides, the temple complex is a national historic treasure of India and protected as such by the Archaeological Survey of India.
Tabo Monastery contains the largest number and best preserved group of buddhist monuments in Himachal Pradesh. The Monastery was founded by the buddhist king (and royal lama) Yeshe O’d in 996 A.D. He was a royal patron, a king of the Purang-Guge kingdom, descended from the ancient Tibetan monarchy. The formation of Tabo Monastery as well as those in Kaza, Ki and Kibber, is tied to the re-establishment of Indian Mahayana Buddhism in Tibet. This expansion of buddhism into India was so great it is known as the chi-dar, the second spreading of buddhism. The 9 temples, 4 decorated stupas and cave shrines contain paintings datable to the 10th-11th centuries for main temple (Tsug la Khang), 13th-14th centuries for the stupas and from the 15th to the 20th centuries for all the other temples.
The Tabo Gompa, or Buddhist monastery, is second in importance only to the Tholing Gompa in Tibet in the entire Himalayan region. Originally it was developed as an advanced center for learning by the great teacher and translator Lotsawa Rinchen Tsang Po, the king of western Himalayan Kingdom of Guge; also known as Lha Lama Yeshe O’d or Mahaguru Ratnabhadra. Today, it still stands as one of the most important monasteries in the Tibetan Buddhist realm.
Rock cliff temple of Tabo Monastery
Historical significance aside, pilgrims and tourists are drawn here for the famous paintings decorating the temple walls. An influence of Indian and Tibetan cultures collides in grand form. The monastery temples house a priceless collection of manuscripts and thangkas (Buddhist scroll paintings), historical, exquisite statues in stuccos, frescos and murals depicting tales from the Mahayana Buddhist Pantheon. Every inch of wall is covered with fine paintings in astonishingly well preserved condition. Unfortunately my visit was too early in the morning to gain access into the temples, however Tabo Monastery has compiled a tasteful site detailing the concept behind these well known pieces of art.
Down the road a short walk from the monastery are small caves the monks still use during winter months. Paintings that once adorned the walls have weathered off. An additional temple built onto the sheer cliff overlooking the monastery deserves a brief visit. The views from this vantage point of Tabo and the surrounding Spiti Valley are spectacular. Wind whips through the green valley nestled against the river and jagged rock peaks. There is a serene quality among the Spiti Valley that should not be missed by travelers. One does not need to have an interest in buddhism or religion to appreciate the tranquil nature of Tabo Monastery.
Caves overlooking Tabo Monastery
A monk’s chamber and nun’s chamber are included in the newer additions of the monastery. Also a dormitory for visitors providing simple accommodations with a common bathroom can be useful for those on a budget tour of India. Additionally there are several guest houses and restaurants in town. Internet and mobile phone access is spotty at best. Rely on STD/ISD for phone service. Weather is a large deciding factor on when to visit this region. While visitors are welcome anytime throughout the year, the best months are May through October. Road passage is sporadic during the winter months. Entry, as with any monastery, is free. Foreign tourists are required to obtain an Inner Line Permit for travel within the protected India-Tibet border area.
