My experiences with massage in India thus far have been underwhelming. Four separate situations have produced results as varied as somewhat comfortable and enjoyable, to utter irritation with the staff. Now on a new trip on the opposite reach of the country, I wondered, surely Indian massage couldn’t be any worse?

For one night, the Siddhi Vinayak Resort Hotel in Sawai Madhopur near Ranthambore National Park was my travel home away from home. It was a newly opened, clean, modern upscale budget accommodation where, surprisingly, ayurvedic massage was available. In fact, the staff was tripping over themselves to suggest the service. The price was right. The location was even better.

I was told the massage could be done in-room. Assuming the masseur or hotel must have a folding table for the services, I happily obliged. Twenty minutes later, like ordering up a pizza, a young, early 20′s tall masseur arrived dressed in fashionable western clothes. He appeared out of place for this remote part of Rajasthan in North India. And there was no table. He only came with a black messenger bag. So where would this massage take place? On the bed of course. Tucked neatly inside his bag was a thick vinyl sheet on which I would lay.

We removed the bedding and placed the vinyl sheet over the mattress. Although apprehensive as I undressed, I was intrigued with this different scenario. No candles, no mood lighting or music. It was strictly business as he began the 60 minute massage. His technique was excellent, somehow working from one side to the other without effort or annoying movement around the bed. This masseur had practiced the imperfect hotel bed massage many times. Not too much oil, very little conversation. What happened for the remaining hour is a mystery. As my new Indian friend finished his routine, I woke up from a brief nap. His hands had lulled me to sleep like 4 other masseurs never came close.

I redressed while the young man folded the massage sheet into a perfect square which neatly fit back into his bag. We replaced the bedding, exchanged money and said our good byes as he left the room. Shame on me for not remembering his name. He was long gone when I thought to ask for a business card to promote his services. This rather unusual concept for an ayurvedic massage in North India, where the practice is not well known, had far exceeded my expectations.

Cost: Rs 1000, tip included.