A single-lane paved road with shallow rocky shoulders stretches into the small village of Losar on the eastern side of Kunzum Pass. It is in this remote community of Himachal Pradesh, known for it’s monastery, where a final check of the foreign tourist Inner Line Permit occurs. Officers at the checkpoint warn of sub-par road conditions ahead, yet stop short of a recommendation to turn back. Backtracking would be a logistical nightmare, taking more than a day to retrace the road back to Rampur; the nearest motorable connecting point providing access to Manali, Keylong and eventually Leh, Jammu/Kashmir, via the more direct central route. The idea of turning back due to inclement weather or road closures crossed my mind as the wheels underneath me slowly crept away from the last civilized post this side of 30 kms. What would normally take well under an hour to travel by freeway was about to test my merit and spontaneous impulse to cross Kunzum Pass, a side of India few travelers know exists.
The importance of Kunzum Pass is unmistakable. It is the only motorable route connecting Lahaul Valley on the western side of the pass with Spiti Valley on the eastern side. Without an open route this part of the state would be left accessible only by foot; Which explains the popularity of skiers, hikers and bikers, who are drawn here for the challenge of crossing the rocky terrain without the use of vehicles.
But Kunzum Pass is also a spectacular sight well seen within the confines of a comfortably warm automobile. Switchbacks, or jig jags as the Indians refer to them, grind up the steep terrain of the Himalayan mountains leading toward Losar, replaced by nothing more than a grated gravel path after the city limits are crossed. Vegetation is left long past in the Spiti Valley, replaced by sheer cliffs of rock. Any animal life is last seen around Kaza, Kye and Kibber. No power lines, no cell reception. This is the edge of the world in it’s most primitive state.
I hadn’t seen another person in more than two hours. I had no jacket, no heavy pull over, no blankets, no emergency first-aid kit, two bottles of water and a few snack bars. It didn’t matter. As the sun danced off the white peaked mountain tops of the Chandra Bhaga Range, my camera clicked away feverishly as I shivered from the cool breezes. All of my worldly cares melt away in this frozen expanse. A sense of overwhelming calm reached deep into the fibers of my body much like the cold would do to me after a few hours in this arctic climate.
A series of chortens (or stupas) surrounded by rings of Buddhist prayers flags welcome visitors to the highest point in the road. It is said this is a Hindu temple devoted to the goddess Durga. Chortens are synonymous with the Buddhist religion as are the prayer flags, the architecture of the small building located next to the chortens and the traditional Buddhist rock prayer garden situated in front of the other structures. Any indication of Hinduism was absent. A gravel road encapsulates the religious structures, leading from the main road down along one side, then behind, and finishing it’s path along the opposite side where it finally ends back at the main road. Tradition states one must follow the path for good luck. And that’s just what I did.
Snow mixed with ice flows from the mountain peaks like frozen lava within the highest point of Kunzum Pass. These beautifully calm natural formations don’t care where they settle, a problem for the narrow road which lies delicately in the way of their movement. Keeping the road open as much as possible is the job of heavy earth moving equipment. These hulking pieces of metal slice through road blockages like butter creating just enough space for the average vehicle to pass.
It took 2 hours for me to make my way through Kunzum Pass. Two hours reveling in the wonders of the Himalayas. Two hours which I hope to repeat one day. Two hours, which I will forever remember.
Getting There
View Kunzum Pass in a larger map
From the West: Kunzum Pass is accessible via Keylong from the North or Manali from the South. Both routes converge in the small village of Gramphu, located in the Lahaul Valley. From here, the road runs eastward into Spiti Valley via the pass and Losar. Travelers can either continue on to Kaza, Tabo, and Recong Peo, ultimately completing the circuit in Shimla. Trekkers can access the pass via the Chandra trail beginning in Manali from the southern approach or in Bara Lacha La (Bara Lacha Pass) from the northern approach.
From the East: Kunzum pass is accessible via National Highway 22. From Shimla, travelers follow the highway to Sumdo near the Tibet border. From here, a single lane road runs through Tabo, Kaza, and Losar before reaching Kunzum Pass. Trekkers can access the pass via the Parbati trail beginning in Manakaran where it ends in Mud. From here, trekkers must navigate via the road or by bus to the pass.
HRTC buses run this route once daily. Check schedules
Accommodations
Accommodations on the western side of Kunzum Pass are minimal. Advanced research is best advised before venturing into this area. Gramphu, roughly 50 kms from the pass, is the best option for choices in rest homes. Two additional options:
Option #1: An Army rest house located along the road offers a bed, running water, toilets and shower for Rs 200 (food extra) as long as no traveling officers have a planned stay. Pro: The place was spotlessly clean, very spacious with large bathrooms and bedrooms, with enough room to easily sleep 20 if needed. Heat comes from the fire stoked by the two live-in attendants who also double as cooks. Con: Situated in a river bed, the cool breezes come whipping through the area at night. Anyone who needs hot water is out of luck. If Army officers arrive at any time in the night, guests will need to vacate to make enough room.
Option #2: A Himachali man and his wife live along the Kunzum Road not far from the Army rest house. They offer a one room building as a rest house for any and all who need to stop. This open room has thin mattresses stuffed in one corner which could sleep 8-10 tightly with a simple toilet out back. The nearby stream provides bathing and drinking water. Meals could be negotiated. Room cost is Rs 100/night. Pro: It’s a place to sleep. Con: No heat, no blankets, fairly exposed to the elements without the proper sleeping equipment.
Accommodations on the eastern side can be found in Losar. Just 18 kms from the pass, Losar has a respectable amount of guest houses due to the draw of tourists to the monastery located here. Hot meals and supplies are also readily available on this side of the pass.
When to Go
Best times to cross Kunzum Pass are June through November.
