For miles, Kye Monastery can be seen from the winding switchbacks of the narrow road ascending the steep terrain of Spiti Valley. You have to want to see this fascinating, and architecturally unique complex as civilization is seemingly left behind as you veer off the main road fourteen miles back in Kaza. Those 14 miles can be breathtaking while also white knuckle inducing. There are no guardrails along this stretch of road where brakes are put to their ultimate test. And trekkers are put to their ultimate test following the short cut which runs straight up a rocky path.

Once there, tourists traveling the Buddhist travel circuit of the northeastern state of Himachal Pradesh are treated to a spectacular sight. Much like Kibber Monastery, accessed via a fork in the road continuing even higher up the mountain another 6 kms, Ki Monastery is understated in every way. It is reportedly the oldest and biggest of the Spiti Valley region, however with the newly built sprawling Kaza monastery, the latter may be an outdated fact. More than 800 years old, the white washed mud plaster with wood roofs appear in well maintained, new condition. Construction is still prevalent, a good sign that tourists and students aren’t discouraged by the outlying location.

Front entrance to Ki Monastery

Tourists arriving via car service must park at the base of the hill where the monastery complex begins. From there, a walk up the steep paved pathway curves up to the front entrance. On the day I visited, a rope was drawn across the steps with a note that stated the building was closed to outside visitors. Yet, a few stragglers did get past the rope without hesitation. I had hoped to see the numerous books, murals, paintings and carvings said to be housed within the confines here. Ki is the repository of the rare ‘Thangka’ paintings and several ancient musical instruments – trumpets, cymbals and drums. Its library holds the manuscripts of the sacred Tangyur texts. Apart from the cells occupied by the monks, the monastery has a large ‘Du-Khang’, assembly chamber lined by religious paintings and other chambers of the incarnate abbot, the zim-chung is the highest point in the building. Three hundred monks are also reported to be living here but there was nearly any sight of persons other than at the door. A large courtyard beyond the doors appeared empty, a strange concept with so many inhabitants lurking about.

A series of box-like rooms have been erected over the years, clinging to the mountain’s edges as a part of the monastery’s monastic architectural style. Brutal attacks in the 17th and 19th centuries left the main buildings plundered. The resulting haphazard regrowth resembles more of a fort deserted centuries past than a current day working monastery. Because of the free flowing building’s structure, nearly every room has a picture perfect view of the valley. Gorgeous snow capped peaks set against the trickling river below are surely something worth waking up to on a daily basis.

Tourists should plan on a minimum of 1 hour to comfortably walk the property and take photographs. There are dormitory rooms available for tourists interested in overnight stays. Arrange in person. Cost unknown.