First mention of a visit to Karni Mata Temple in the dry, dusty town of Deshnok, Rajasthan, generally leads to the same response. “Ewwww, no thanks”! A quick glance of any India travel guide description turns the stomach of most readers. Yet, many visitors take time to travel the short distance from Bikaner (30 kms). Curiosity gets the best of most tourists, especially when they see local residents clamoring through the front gate in hopes of spotting the white rat. Yes, rat.
Constructed by Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner, in the early 1900s as a tribute to the rat goddess, Karni Mata, the Hindu temple is home to thousands of rats who live in harmony among the tourists, priests and followers. Karni Mata, a mystic matriarch from the 14th century, was an incarnation of Durga, the Hindu goddess of power and victory. Deshnok became the chosen location as Durga’s father found her future husband in the remote Rajasthani village. Time-lines are sketchy, although there are claims the rats have reportedly been living here for 6 centuries.
A daily diet of milk, water and sweets provided by the temple keeps the rats scampering throughout the complex. As with any Hindu temple, no shoes are allowed, forcing would be visitors sometimes to make a hard decision. Do I walk bare foot over the marble floor where thousands of rats have roamed? After the initial reluctance, a change in body language tends to wash over those that had doubts. In fact, it’s well known to be good luck if a rat crosses your feet. Another rumor of good luck lies in eating any uneaten portion of food a rat previously nibbled. This one might stretch the imagination too far. No reports of sickness, plague or other medical issues have been reported.
A local Rajasthani band plays under the shade of the courtyard as followers perform puja with the Brahmin priest inside the main shrine. Rats dash to and fro with smiles and cheers from foreigners. As for the white rat, I was “lucky” enough to spot one right before leaving.
Plan an hour for the rat temple of Deshnok. Deshnok, Rajasthan, offers little else for sightseeing so there is no need to stay on after viewing the Karni Mata rats. Refreshments plus various trinkets are sold across the street from Karni Mata Temple.
Bus and train service run daily between Bikaner and/or Jodhpur. Taxis as well as private car service can also be hired in either city.
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