Tourists interested in the historic roots of India will enjoy a short visit to Hawa Mahal, located in Jaipur, Rajasthan. More popularly referred to as “Palace of the Winds”, this show piece of a building is known more for what it isn’t, than is. Standing 5 stories high, but only 1 room deep, the structure was designed for the royal harem to view daily street life below unnoticed. Situated in the hectic Johari Bazaar, near the Badi Chaupad (the big square), locals and tourists can’t miss this impressive reminder of the past.

Narrow corridors lined with screened windows

Local guides and drivers generally allow for no more than a quick drive by of this iconic building, so instead, grab a tuk tuk or local bus to peruse at your leisure. Visitors enter through the back where you will find a small parking lot if you do travel by car. Little signage marks the way to the ticket booth but it’s rather obvious, just follow the few other local tourists.

Walk up narrow stairs to the top while stopping on each level along the way. Walls are no more than 8 inches thick, built of lime, mortar and red sandstone, but the exterior pink color dazzles in the morning sunlight. Built to resemble the crown of the god Krishna, tiered projecting windows and balconies are covered by perforated screens. These screens are what shielded the women from the public’s view, but offered the ladies a view to daily activities. Surprisingly one can see a great deal from behind the screens. With very little extra effort views are nearly unobstructed.

Despite the imposing wall of 953 latticed casements and small windows, what you’re viewing is actually the back end of a sprawling complex. The palace was built in 1799 and today houses the Archaeological Museum and administrative offices. It lies adjacent to the current city palace but was part of the women’s quarters during it’s heyday. The design of chiseled lattice screens allowed for any breeze to flow freely through leaving the ladies watching royal processions and parades cool and comfortable.

Open daily. Rs 5 entry, Rs 30 camera