It’s everywhere. Puddles of it lie on sidewalks. Walls are permanently marked with dried streaking stains of it. And countless mouths of teeth are blemished from it. It is the liquid remains from chewing betel leaf, a commonplace activity among the masses in India. The combination of the betel leaf and nut, added to saliva, results in a brick-red “juice” seen predominantly across the country. Travelers will soon become accustomed to the smiles of orange-brown stained teeth, lips and gums.

More commonly referred to as paan, the betel leaf and nut are native to and widely cultivated in South Asia. So popular is paan, that nearly every street corner in India sells some version of it. And this isn’t a new trend, the act of chewing the much sought after betel leaf has pervaded India since ancient times. In fact, the use of betel leaf is cited as far back as 2000 years. The object is to chew the leaf and spit the excess liquid which forms in the mouth.

Paan stall selling packaged paan for Rs 2 and fresh chai

So just what is paan? Paan walas (sellers of paan) start with washed betel leaves. Next, a mixture of spices such as cardamom, anise and katha with choona (lime paste), grated coconut, different kinds of supari (betel nuts) and small piece of various candies are then applied or heaped onto the leaf. Finally, the leaf is folded into a triangular shape and secured in place by piercing a piece of clove into it. The most important ingredient in paan listed above is supari, a local term for the areca nut. This nut, which in botanical terms is actually a seed, provides a narcotic value to paan. Many medicinal benefits have been attributed to the chewing of paan, although not necessarily substantiated. For example, betel leaf is used in several common house hold remedies such as: Headaches, constipation, stomach disorders, wounds, cold and cough, and for new mothers. Paan is also believed to help in digestion of curried foods and also act as mouth fresheners. However, these ingredients can also cause nausea, giddiness, perspiration and initial symptoms of poisoning for curious tourists not used to paan.

Bulk betel leaf and split roasted betel nut

The heart-shaped betel-leaf, or piper betel, is preferably plucked when it is still young and tender and its taste is the best. Much care is invested in the cultivation of this creeper plant which thrives under the shade of large trees or under the protection of high bamboo or thatched roofing. An individual creeper will continually produce the desired leaf size of about 14 centimeters in length and 8 centimeters in width for up to 20 years. But then they lose their spicy, astringent taste. Habitual chewing stains the teeth and studies have linked it to oral cancer.

Offering paan to guests and visitors is a common courtesy in India, usually served at the end of a meal and special ceremonies such as weddings or receptions. A great symbolic value is placed in betel leaf chewing in the wedding rituals of most provinces of India where the stuffed, folded leaves are distributed at parties. A special wedding custom in Maharashtra reads that the bride holds a betel roll in her mouth, half of which the bridegroom bites from the other end. Betel boxes also are commonly a part of the gifts to the bride and bridegroom from their respective fathers-in-law.

Paan served as an after meal treat in Madurai, South India

Betel leaves and nuts are sold in bulk at local markets and bazaars; But the growing time constraints put upon city dwellers has made it more popular for locals to find their way to the corner paan wala. The tiny stalls also serve as a source of entertainment and information for youth and older men who hold court on the streets in front of the shops. South Indian restaurants customarily bring paan and a fresh banana to the table after dinner has been cleared as a palate cleanser and breath freshener.

Tourists in search of a slice of the ‘real’ India look no further than paan. Popular, addictive, and available anywhere, the sight of stained teeth and red pools of liquid are a true sign of daily life in South Asia.