Shimla is a city that travelers either love or hate immediately. Drivers will try to dissuade you from visiting with claims that there is nothing to see for tourists. It is crowded, noisy, overbuilt, and requires patience when exploring the streets. Parking borders on non-existent and without the help of an agency, finding a room for the night is truly like finding a needle in a haystack. Fortunately when I visited I came armed with my friend and driver Rakesh, who knew the perfect spot to crash.

Tara Lodge lies just down from the High Court of Shimla at the end of a single lane residential road. Only a small sign hanging in front marks the building as a guest house. As with most places in Shimla, a flight of stairs brings you down to a small reception room where the owner, clad in a white sleeveless undershirt and wrinkled trousers, greets guests. A small army of young Indian men came running when summoned to show us room options.

The guest house exists on several levels built into the hillside providing views of the cityscape and valley. We agreed on two rooms that were accessed just off a small dining area with kitchenette. Waking up to your breakfast being prepared just outside your room brought a touch of home as well a great opportunity to become close with the staff. Our rooms were large with tiled floors, a small seating area with a tiny black and white TV. The large bed was comfortable and drenched in the sunlight from the large picture windows. The bathroom was small but efficient. Western toilets, hot water heater with full time running water and shower were just what we needed.

Our stay was planned for two nights but extended to 3 as I became severely sick on the 2nd night. A meal at the Oberoi Hotel did not agree with me. Thank goodness for Cipro and the staff at Tara Lodge. The young men on staff, whom I had already become friendly with, treated me like their extended brother when they learned of my illness. Barely able to get out of bed at times, they ran to the market in search of bananas and boxed electrolyte mix for me. The 3 of them took turns checking on me offering water, tea, roti, fresh towels and anything else they could bring.

As I felt better, their concerned frowns turned to smiles and relaxed conversation. The next morning we packed up and walked to the car with the 3 men in tow. They personally escorted us with our luggage and best wishes for a full recovery.

Beyond the personal attention due to my unfortunate illness, the food prepared for us was delicious and filling. We had little need to venture out for meals in the city. The room and bath were clean. Although the location required some walking to reach the heart of the city, we paid a ridiculously low rate of Rs 600 ($15) per night. Parking was found in a paid lot just a short walk up the hill from the guest house. Avoid the hassles of the city by taking a room at Tara Lodge.