Two attractions bring tourists to the blue collar city of Bharatpur: Lohagarh (Iron Fort) and Keoladeo National Park, the latter being a much bigger draw. So it’s no wonder that many of the guest homes near this border town, barely inside the eastern state lines of Rajasthan, attach their names to various ornithological references in the hopes of reeling in bird watching, nature loving travelers. Hotel Sunbird is an example of one.
Arriving to town after dark, without a reservation and certainly without a clue as to where to stay in Bharatpur, my goal was to find any hotel with a bed, and maybe some hot water. Stretching along the divided 4 lane highway outside of town about 2 kms is a strip of hotels near the park entrance. As I made the rounds checking out room accommodations within this cluster of properties it was made obvious that rooms don’t come cheap near Keoladeo Park. Eventually I settled on Hotel Sunbird. A rat race of western tourists had descended on a neighboring hotel owned by a foreigner. Maybe I would have found myself with some new contacts there but my gut said to stay clear.
Guest rooms at Hotel Sunbird Bharatpur range from simple rooms within the main building, to cozy cottages built around a small garden area out back. This is a trend many of the competitors also offer at similar rates. Singles or couples looking for some extra privacy will certainly enjoy the well decorated, peaceful setting of the cottages. I was content with my comfortably clean room on the second floor away from the road. Two guests can easily share the space provided, fighting over the TV or small seating area tucked in the corner. Plenty of hot water flowed from the western bathroom with shower.
Hotel Sunbird’s proximity to the bird park was not what attracted me. In fact, I had no plans to visit the park on this trip. Rather it was the welcoming red brick exterior of the main house, built either purposefully or accidentally much like an 1800′s colonial manor complete with thick trimmed windows. Deep green ivy attached itself to the brick walls creating a faux New England feel. A charming courtyard of sandstone blocks lined with potted plants lays before the house, a nice buffer between the dusty parking lot and front doors. Hotel Sunbird felt like a guest house rather than just another hotel.
Meals served in the family restaurant doubling as the lobby
Two young Indian men were the face of the operations inside the main house which doubles as the lobby and Indian food restaurant. The owners, a middle-aged Indian family, were still within ear shot behind the reception desk ensuring guests were comfortable. Part cooks, part waiters, part money handlers and baggage movers, the two men hustled through the night as hungry travelers ordered dinner or requested rooms.
My early morning wake followed by chai and paranthas before shoving off for a long day of sightseeing was made easier by the two guys from the night before. Obviously tired, they happily prepared and served my meal with good conversation. The test of any decent hotel is whether it looks as good in daylight as it appeared during an after dark check-in. Hotel Sunbird aced the test.
Cost: 1600 Rs including breakfast (Reduced slightly from the published rates. Expect hard bargaining for any discounts)
Dinner: 195 Rs Malai Kofta, plain roti and water. Delicious.
