It’s hard to be unbiased at times when first seeing new sights of India. Some fall into the pattern of ho-hum, I’ve already seen this at INSERT TOWN NAME HERE, or THERE, and then there are tourist destinations like Hadimba Temple in Manali. The ancient temple located in the small village of Dhungri far in the northern reaches of Himachal Pradesh, is mentioned in nearly every India guide book as something spectacular to see. On closer inspection, the question I have is, why?
From the moment visitors step out of their car or arrive by tuk tuk or taxi, they are accosted by touts. And these aren’t the annoying young Indian men hawking postcards or selling various trinkets one doesn’t need. These touts are a mix of older and younger Himachali women carrying bright white, massive angora rabbits. Rabbits you say? Yes, rabbits. Because nothing says “Look at the photos of my trip to India” like posing with a complete stranger holding a rabbit behind a pagoda temple. After a few weeks or even days of India travel it becomes rather easy to dismiss street sellers. Yet these Indian woman have honed their selling tactics to crack even the coldest of hearts. Indian tourists stop to pose, giggling through the click click click of their family’s camera. From the way they are reacting to the rabbits it seems as if this is their first encounter of seeing an animal. Clearly they are from the city. Probably Delhi.
Hadimba Temple is also known as Dhungri Temple due to it’s location within the village which shares the same name. Dirt paths through the dark forest of deodar trees line the way to the temple from the jammed parking lot of cars and buses. But just as you thought you could move beyond the rabbits to take in the fantastic architecture of Hadimba Temple, here come the yaks. Yaks you say? Yes, yaks. Because nothing says “I went to India and all I got was a photo on this lousy yak” like, well, riding a yak. It starts to sink in that this whole experience is nothing more than one big tourist trap. Waving off a yak ride is much easier than trying to say no to the rabbit ladies who flash sad faces and walk as if they have the hips of 80 year grannies.
Finally it’s time to explore the temple, a rather spectacular building completed in 1553. A four tiered pagoda roof tops the base made of wood timbers and mortar. It’s main facade is made entirely of intricately carved wood paneling. The religious history of the Hindu temple is quite involved, and goes beyond the few Hindu deities which most foreign tourists come to know during their travels. Suffice to say the temple was named after a demoness, Hadimba, who meditated here. She eventually attained the position of Durga. Thus, the sanctuary is built over a rocky crevice covered by a large rock that is worshiped as a manifestation of Durga.
A 3 day event held every May at Hadimba/Dhungri Temple of Manali, adds even more circus to the already withstanding fair-like setting of rabbits and yak rather than any religious connection. Rides, merchants, bands and dancers come together to celebrate the local people and their culture. What it amounts to as a small county fair designed to bring tourists into Manali. Foreign travelers may be turned off by the enormous amount of garbage and clutter which amasses by the end of the festival, as well as the size of crowds.
Hadimba Temple is best seen early in the day before the usual sightseeing crowds gather. Dense forest encapsulating the temple creates beautiful photo backdrops, and the winding pathways leading to and from the temple are perfect for scenic walks. At a distance of only 1.5 kms from the hill station of Manali, it’s easily walkable from the Mall. I wouldn’t recommend it be at the top of your list of things to do in Manali, however it’s a popular destination to take an early morning stroll if you have spare time.
#HadimbaTemple
