Casual, laid back, breezy, full of happy tourists; Just a few ways to describe Moonraker’s, a triple story restaurant found on the beach drag of Mamallapuram. Although there are many other options for diners, and several on the waterfront, Moonraker’s has perfected the art of attracting hungry guests.  The owner has built up a network that runs deep in this bustling, but small beach side community of Tamil Nadu. Besides the strong recommendation my travel partner and I received from our driver, any tourists walking past the open air seating area are barraged by several employees whose sole purpose is to entice customers into staying.

With high temps, unforgiving sun beating us down, and shirts soaked in perspiration, we made the short walk from our hotel to check out the menu around 4 in the afternoon. Many seats were filled, music was playing while smiles were found all around (all good reasons to come back). Closer to dinner time we found ourselves standing in the front entrance. The two of us were given the choice of dining on the main level or upstairs. Not wanting to miss a view and the opportunity to snoop, I chose the upper level. To reach the narrow stairwell, guests walk past the mostly exposed kitchen where “Today’s Fresh Catch” is laid out on a waist high table. Come at the right time to find this platter overflowing with options. But, as the night lingers on, the supply of mouthwatering sea meats exhausts itself.

Up the flight of stairs we were directed past the first floor where it appeared mostly locals were dining. Not another soul was to be found on the cozy second floor. Six tables were stuffed into a drab, rectangular room. On one end was a hand washing basin next to the small, efficiently sized waiter station. A narrow aisle flowed past chairs and tables to the front end wall capped at waist height. No windows, no shutters, just open access to the world outside. Fans lining both side walls blew tornado like breezes through the empty shell, which my partner and I were thankful for. The air was still hot and muggy, a perfect recipe for ordering a Kingfisher and lime soda sweet.

Moonraker’s menu is simple: pick something from the fresh catch then decide which way you want it cooked. We chose the jumbo prawns in a garlic sauce and a mixed seafood grill. I empathized with our waiter who was in a constant state of running the steps. Drinks and food were picked up on the main level to be delivered two flights up. Other guests ventured the stairs as we waited for our wait time was moving into a quizzical period…as if he could read our minds, the waiter appeared to give reassurance food was coming soon. That is until the power went out. Aww, the rolling blackouts of India.

Within 10 minutes entrees arrived piping hot on no-nonsense plates. A few slices of lime was the only garnish needed for these non-fussy meals. Massive, not jumbo, sized prawns sat in a pool of delightfully seasoned garlic sauce. My plate of mixed grill would have been better served with some sort of gravy side dish, yet the lack of any seasoning let the natural flavors hit my taste buds.

TIP: Be sure to tip your waiter directly. Our waiter was up-front in thanking me for handing his gratuity personally. He asked me not to mention any tip to the owner (a sign that the owner wanted a percentage) while explaining tips left at the cashier below would not be passed along.

By the end of our meal, most of the tables were filled with the same type of smiling faces that sold us on returning just a few hours earlier. Maybe it’s the relaxed nature of visiting the beach or just the carefree environment the owner has created for his restaurant. Add a delicious meal with friendly service and you’ll see why this place is the appeal of hungry tourists.

Cost: Rs 920 (tip included)