Hunger pangs set in during a visit to the Shore Temple in the seaside town of Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu. And while there was a bounty of options for fresh seafood and waterside cafes nearby, I recalled a driver recommendation from the day before.  With mid-March temps creeping past the triple digit mark and humidity soaking ever fiber of my cotton T, all I wanted was A/C breezes and an ice cold glass of water to quench a thirst as large as the Thar Desert.

Fortunately Golden Palate Restaurant, located in the rear of Hotel Mamallaa Heritage, is a tourist’s oasis. The hotel towers over the surrounding shops, stalls and homes lining the main drag making it an easy find for walking travelers or peeking out the back of a tuk tuk. And the A/C…let’s just say it does the body good. Floor to ceiling windows don’t provide much of a view as the hotel’s main jewel, Waves Seafood Restaurant, blocks the pool and garden scenery. However, the real action comes from the hustle and bustle of passing hotel guests and service staff shuttling food from kitchen to table.

A no frill setting of tables placed in combination of 2 and 4 people cover the modestly sized dining room. Diners are quickly greeted and seated by a very aloof, yet eager host who makes no secret that his job is simply to seat and take orders. Behind the cashier station stands a cantankerous older fellow dressed in Indian regalia. His sole purpose is to handle the money. And coming up the rear is a small army of servers who run food from the kitchen situated just outside and to the right of the dining room next to the toilets. The employees at Golden Palate run around in an organized chaos providing entertainment for any watchful eyes.

Veg offerings run the usual paces here but the execution is superb. Colorful and tasty, this is real cooking the likes of which are found at home in the village. Thali and a paneer tikka sampler were gobbled up by my travel partner and me in short order, washed down by cold sweet lassi. Quick service, ample portions, big taste and a spotless interior are clearly the ingredients that made for our referral. Yes, more interesting choices with seaside character can be had by the shore but it’s hard to pass up a sure thing with A/C for just Rs 280.