Good food, great atmosphere and stellar views of the city are all found at the rooftop terrace restaurant at Hotel Harasar Haveli. Located in the desert city of Bikaner, Rajasthan, this restaurant sits just outside of town on what appears to be hotel alley. Our driver, Rakesh, highly recommended this place for dinner one night as my travel partner and I weren’t fond of eating in the 5 star sterile environment our hotel offered.

The hotel name is slightly off-putting as haveli (meaning large home or mansion) conjures up a different image than this multi-story building. However, the exterior is nicely painted and maintained, and on a subsequent visit to Bikaner it would be on my short list of properties to stay. For dining we walked through the front gate and up the 3 flights of stairs to the terrace. Diners have an option of eating in the enclosed part of the rooftop or on a slightly higher level fully outside. My recommendation is to pick the open air terrace that offers perfect 360º views of Bikaner and the surrounding dessert. The only exception is for breakfast when the enclosed rooftop offers shade from the hot, pounding rising sun.

Service here is prompt and polite. Food is the usual Indian fare plus tandoori items, always a nice find. As the sun sets, subtle lighting marks the terrace so the sky views aren’t obstructed. A nice mix of foreign tourists sums up a majority of the dining crowd.

Our dinner meal was so tasty we agreed to visit again before leaving town. The next afternoon Rakesh and I stopped in for a coke and a card game. With the desert sun setting followed by cool breezes mixed with our peaceful perch atop the city , one coke turned into 2 and then dinner time. Our second meal was as good as the first. Earlier my travel partner and I had a disappointing breakfast experience at our hotel. With two good meals under our belt here, we made plans for a Harasar Haveli breakfast.

The next morning we arrived early to find even more eclectic mix of foreigners than the previous two dinner crowds. Most were waking up yet wiping the sleep from their eyes. The conversation overheard from our table consisted of many different languages but all around were smiles and laughter. This place was casual, carefree, clearly popular, and my new favorite place to eat in Bikaner.