Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

BEST OF THE BLOG

Palanquins of Royal Rajasthan
Palanquins were a popular means of travel for royal and noble ladies up to the second quarter of the 20th Century before automobiles became relevant in India.

SKIP: Shahi Palace, Jaisalmer
A disappointment from the beginning, Shahi Palace proved that travelers should always follow their instincts.

WHEN TO GO

Best: November – February
This time of year offers the most respite from broiling hot desert heat. Occasional winter showers occur but not enough to wet much of anything. Sun still shines bright in the sky bouncing off the golden stone of the city. Tourists who don’t fare well in heat are best advised to come during this period.

Good: February – May

Coming out of winter the temperatures begin to rise as the tourist traffic falls. Stay too long into the Spring and you might find yourself among only the bravest who will fight the oncoming scorches of summer.

Skip: June – October

Dreadful. Triple digit temps make this area hard to discover. The local lake all but dries up waiting for the coming monsoon. Explorations throughout the city require near full time exposure to the sun so pack appropriately. Sunscreen and hats are top of the list.

HOW TO REACH

Auto: Jaisalmer is connected by National Highway 15 from the South and East. This is a well paved road with little automobile usage. Heavy trucks, semis and military vehicles run in packs so expect slow speeds at times. This is a motorbike and cyclists dream with straight stretches as far as the eye can see. To the East, connect with Bikaner along the northern route of Rajasthan, or Jodhpur along the central route. South bound travelers will continue into Gujarat or break off to Mt Abu along the southern Rajasthan route.

Bus: State and Private buses are abundant. RSTDC buses serve Bikaner, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Pushkar and Udaipur. Check online schedules for times and frequency. Bus stand located at the South end of town. Tickets can be purchased from the bus stand. Private buses leave from Air Force Circle south of the fort. Tickets can be purchased from local travel agents. Local RSTDC buses for Sam, Khuhri, or Lodurva leave from a stand to the northeast of Hanuman Circle. Pay the fare upon boarding.

Taxi: Available for hire in the city center to local sightseeing locations or regional cities.

Train: Jaisalmer Railway station is east of town. Hire a tuk tuk to reach old town or enjoy a modest walk. Jaisalmer-Delhi Express #14060 runs daily departing late afternoon with a late morning arrival in Delhi the following day. Stops in Pokaran, Phalodi, Osian, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Alwar, and Old Delhi. An overnight Jaisalmer-Bikaner Express #14701 runs daily departing in the late evening with a very early morning arrival in Bikaner. Book tickets with Indian Railways online or in person.

Plane: Jaisalmer Airport. Only open between peak tourist season, first day of October through the last day of March. Air India and Jet airways run limited service, 3 times a week, from Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur and Jodhpur. Online airline reservation services will not allow bookings outside of tourist season. Call for the most accurate pricing and availability.

MOVING ABOUT

A dearth of transportation options exist for visitors of Jaisalmer; most of the city limits can easily be enjoyed simply by lacing up some comfortable walking shoes.

Motorbikes or bicycles work well through the narrow streets of Jaisalmer, and for longer rides into the desert surroundings. Both can be rented at various storefronts in the city.

Prepackaged sightseeing tours via taxi are readily available for hire. Agents will stumble over themselves for your business so be sure to bargain shop before committing.

Tuk tuk’s are perfect for quick getaways to some of the city’s best spots. Cheap to hire, easy to find. This is a no fuss way to move about.

State-run buses operate a constant round trip schedule to nearby towns; although when you factor your time into the cost equation, it’s cheaper to use tuk tuk’s or taxis.

STAYING CONNECTED

Telephones
Tourists are well connected by mobile service. Traditional STD/ISD phone lines are prevalent throughout the city.

Internet
Given Jaisalmer’s popularity with foreign traffic, the abundance of WiFi and cyber cafes within the city should be no surprise. New internet rules in India have made the connection and use of WiFi more stringent. Verify with your hotel prior to booking to ensure there really is properly working WiFi if this service is of importance to your travels. Many properties tack on additional fees for WiFi usage. Cyber cafes are located in various spots around the city. Remember to bring your passport as virtually every owner now asks to record your passport and India Visa numbers.

Mail
The city post office of Jaisalmer is located at Gopa Chowk. Send and receive mail. Local Pin Code is 345021.

Television
There is no problem keeping abreast of world events and the every important cricket scores on TV as Jaisalmer is well connected with satellite service. However, many hotels do not offer in room televisions so be sure to inquire prior to arrival if this feature is a deal-breaker.

Newspapers/Magazines
Latest editions of English, Hindi, and assorted other language publications are easily found in the markets of Jaisalmer.

Jaisalmer For Beginners | Next Steps | Deep Finds

Tourism is the main industry in Jaisalmer. Simply put, if the foreigners stop coming the city would eventually crumble into nothing more than an outpost at the end of the line of civilization. What was once a powerful regional trading post along the Arabian merchant route, today Jaisalmer is host to a city of salesmen. Everyone from the tuk tuk driver to the barber has their hand in the tourist cookie jar. Prepare to be hard sold from your waking hours until the lights go out at night.

Hotels outside of the fort have sprung up to accommodate not just the influx of tourism to the area in recent years, but more so as an answer to the continuing problems plaguing the fort’s foundation. Overuse of water has forced the water table down to a level never expected when the fort was constructed. As a result, a call to save the iconic monument is in progress. A plethora of choices in all budget ranges outside the fort are just as charming as anything found inside. And many offer stellar rooftop views from a perspective you wouldn’t find otherwise.

It’s rather easy to dismiss the fuss of commercialism if you dig into the history of the city. Fascinating remains still hold a spot around the area, just don’t allow yourself to be talked out of visiting these places. Comparisons to the lawless wild wild west knock repeatedly on the door of your conscience. Men can move about town with relative ease however women should travel in pairs or groups. Hard as you try, no matter how seasoned a traveler, both genders will fall prey to at least one scam during even the briefest of stays in Jaisalmer.

WHAT’S HERE

Maharaja Palace, Jaisalmer Fort
The Main Chowk of Jaisalmer Fort is where tourists will find the former palace of the maharaja, a five storied building of meticulously carved stone balconies and window arches. It’s official name Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum & Heritage Center is a whopper to spit out so locals and tour guides commonly refer to it only as “the palace”.

Gadi Sagar Lake
A short walk from the Jaisalmer fort will land you on the banks of Gadi Sagar, a popular local hangout. Tourists come by default as part of their preplanned itineraries, and Do-it-Yourself travelers make an appearance following the advice of guide books. Tuk tuks are the easiest way to the lake, although walking will yield a different perspective of the sprawl outside of the fort’s walls.

Folklore Museum
Rs 10 passes for the entrance fee into this small museum near the main gate of Gadi Sagar. Displays of Rajasthani folk art and textiles are somewhat interesting but easily missed if time doesn’t permit a visit after taking in sensational views from the nearby lake.
 
 

Temples
Eventually after twists and turns of the narrow fort alleyways you will find the Jain temples. Follow the crowds into the golden stone structures connected by small corridors and stairways.

Laxminath Temple lies in the opposite of the Jain temple complex. Take the long way through the fort city or directly from the main chowk. Built in 1494, this is the most impressive of the Hindu temples within the Jaisalmer fort.

Shopping
Be sure to stop at one of the few ATM’s of Jaisalmer prior to entering the fort walls. Everything from bedsheets to books, fabric and shoes to any leather bag imaginable is sold by an endless stream of merchants. Alleyways already crowded from tourists and lingering cows are cramped just a bit more by racks of garments waiting to be bought. Through every confusing turn of Jaisalmer’s streets there is an over-abundance of salesmen eager to strip each and every tourist of their last rupee.

Havelis
Rajasthan is well known for its share of extravegant havelis. In Jaisalmer, there are 3 multi-storied beauties attracting the camera lenses and wallets of travelers.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli: This behemoth, the most easily located mansion of the group, was built by two brothers who individually completed each side of the house separately. Minor differences can be spotted by those who marvel at the hand carved latticework and floral designs. Entrance is free. The included gift shop offers nothing you can’t obtain in the main market.

Salim Singh Haveli: A real architectural delight. The upper level is entirely enclosed by an overhanging balcony eerily similar to British Gothic, yet still purely Jaisalmer. Now more than 200 years old, the family home is as striking as ever. A small entrance fee is charged. You’ll definitely want to hire a resident guide or offer a small bribe to a lingering kid for help finding this hidden gem.

Patwa Haveli: Prepare yourself for a zoo of tourists. Bus loads of foreigners arrive en mass to see this highly decorated home built by the Patwa brothers. Successful in business, each brother inhabited a separate suite complete with it’s own entrance from the street. A small entrance fee is required. Views from outside are the most breathtaking.

Sunset Point
North of Gandhi Chowk, the main bazaar of Jaisalmar city (not fort) lies Vyas Chhatri. Better known as Sunset Point among the travel agents, tourists are expected to make one stop here during a visit to the western Rajasthan city. Average folk come to see unimpeded sunset views over the Thar Desert while history buffs seek out the surrounding cenotaphs or royal tombs nearby. A particular find here is the tomb of Sage Vyas,the man who compiled the Hindu epic Mahabharata, the longest scripture in the world with almost 300,000 verses. A small entry fee is collected. Tuk tuks are a popular mode of transportation to and from town. Be sure to arrive with plenty of time to set up your camera, winter sunsets disappear into the skyline quickly.

NEXT STEPS

Royal Cenotaphs, Bada Bagh
Atop a hill just minutes away from the desert city of Jaisalmer, travelers will find the eerily calm setting of Bada Bagh or Big Garden. Wind whips through crumbling cenotaphs, made of the famous golden stone of Jaisalmer, built in memory of the city’s rulers. Deserted all but for a few touts peddling stock postcards to the handful of tourists who venture here, the already trivial entry fee is a pittance for the stunning finds discovered in near isolation.

Sand Dunes of Sam
There is no secret that visitors on a tour of India come to Jaisalmer for the desert and camels. Thoughts of wind-carved sand dunes covered step-by-step on the back of a camel is par for the course in the remote Rajasthan city. Cars filled with locals and foreigners scream along the lone road to Sam to mark the passing sun of another day atop rented camels among the beginning sand dunes of Desert National Park.

Camel Safari
Bargaining skills are well advised when booking this popular activity in Jaisalmer. Competing camel safari agent’s signs litter the city for tourist’s attention; and everyone, I mean everyone will try to sell you a package deal. Prices and services offered vary as the wind flies. Ask for recommendations from fellow travelers, be wary of hotels who offer to arrange a safari for you without price comparing, and never take the first option offered. An overnight expedition into the sand dunes is enough for most visitors, however treks can last as long as 2 weeks for the truly adventurous.

DEEP FINDS

Desert Festival
Every February, tourists can experience a crash course in Rajasthani traditions during this 3 day event. Camel races, turban tying competitions, and best mustache contests are just the beginning of the Jaisalmer Desert Festival. Listen to Rajasthani folk music as dancers from across the state show off the best in classic dances. There is no shortage of food or souvenirs to purchase. No need to worry about money, mobile money changers, as well as credit card terminals, are always easily found.

Desert National Park
Outwards from Jaisalmer roughly 40 kms lies the largest park in Rajasthan. The protected sanctuary of Desert National Park is a harsh landscape of sand dunes with limited vegetation. Bird lovers will enjoy the migrating species which pass through on their way to richer climates; yet there are a host of resident birds found within the park. November to March is the ideal season to view the park by jeep.

Lodurva
Originally the capital of the Jaisalmer region, what remains of this former city is nothing more than a few Jain temples. Exquisitely rebuilt structures are architectural masterpieces, a remarkable feat among the strong competition within Jaisalmer. Alas, few foreign tourists find this of interest, instead caught up in the more popular desert activities. Roam around the high-walled complex in virtual peace. Arrive just before sunset to watch the ubiquitous golden stone buildings glow from the last bit of light. A small entry fee is required. Arrange a taxi from town.