What will your India trip look like?

Watch as the camera takes the viewer inside Arunachal wedding preparations. Crisp images combined with a well spoken narrative just begin to touch the surface of a fascinating region nestled among the Himalayas.

Travel within the state requires a permit for both Indian Nationals and foreign tourists.

What is Paneer?

Paneer is a soft, crumbly cheese native to India. It’s versatile mild flavor makes it an ideal ingredient in Indian food recipes, especially gravies. The cheese is made from whole milk, making it high in protein yet also in fat. Paneer is considered to be a fresh hard cheese. It is an unaged, acid-set, non-melting farmer cheese made by curdling heated milk with lemon juice or other food acid.

The cheese is most often compared to cottage cheese or tofu. However, paneer is generally prepared unsalted and without bacteria or animal products so the substitution of cottage cheese is a less desirable option compared to tofu. As with any cheese, it is best avoided by anyone with trouble digesting lactose. People with high cholesterol, obesity, diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis or those watching their weight should limit their intake of paneer.  It is a terrific protein option for tourists or other travelers of India who wish to avoid meat.

Popular Paneer Dishes

North Indians will swear by their paneer, and there are a thousand recipes from snacks to curries and desserts which are made entirely with paneer as the main ingredient. Tourists of India may also see paneer referred to as panir, channa or chenna, based on regional languages.

When used for cooking in main dishes, the cheese is sliced into flat cubes roughly 1″ by 1′ and mixed into the final product before serving. Paneer also makes a nice shredded garnish topping for briyani rice dishes, omelets, and various other vegetarian dishes.

Popular paneer dishes include:

• Paneer tikka (marinated chunks of paneer placed on skewers and roasted in the tandoor)
• Saag Paneer (made with mustard leaves in India, spinach elsewhere)
• Palak Paneer (made with spinach, closer in flavor and consistency to saag paneer served outside of India)
• Mattar paneer (made with peas)
• Paneer pakora (fried fritter excellent with ketchup or chutney, served as a snack)
• Paneer Parantha (stuffed bread generally served for breakfast)
• Rasgulla (chilled cheese balls served in chilled sugar syrup)

How to Make Paneer (recipe and video)

1. Heat one half gallon (roughly two liters) of whole milk until it is almost boiling.

2.Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and stir the milk with a wooden spoon. The milk should start to curdle, forming a chunky white layer of curds from a thinner watery layer of whey. Add more lemon juice if this does not occur, and stir for several minutes.

3. Line a colander with clean cheesecloth, and pour the curds and whey into the colander. The whey will drain off, leaving the curds behind. Twist the cheesecloth to squeeze additional whey out, and hang it over the sink for half an hour.

4. After the half hour has elapsed, twist the cheesecloth again to compact the cheese and drain more whey away.

5. Hang the paneer for another half an hour, and then take it down and refrigerate it for several hours before use to compact it.

What is round, made of stainless steel and found in virtually every home in India? It’s the masala dabba, a traditional Indian spice box still used for cooking Indian food throughout the country. Packed with only the most often used spices for each household, and varying based on regions of India, this common item holds more than just seeds and powders.

A masala dabba consists of a large outer tin that holds 7 smaller tins and has an outer lid that fits tightly atop the large tin. Some versions include individual lids covering the smaller tins which actually makes it hard to use the spice box. Common sizes range from 7″ to 12″ in diameter made of stainless or sometimes copper. A proper masala dabba or “spice container box”, includes 1 to 7 spoons for measuring about a dash of each spice. Square containers are sometimes found in the markets of India. The nice thing about circular is that there is a lot of natural space between the containers, so it’s easy to lift them in and out.

The spices contained within the dabba are a matter of personal taste. Travel from one part of the country to another and you will notice regional variations not just in the taste of food, but also which spices are held in a masala dabba and even the number each home keeps. One dabba may be used for ground spices like turmeric and red chili powder, and a second one for whole spices like cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon sticks and black peppercorns.

Always within a simple reach of the arm while cooking, the Indian spice box has a long rich history with the Indian culture and individual families. Mothers pass on their masala dabba, acquired from their mother or mother-in-law, to newly married daughters. Cherished boxes made of wood, silver, copper, or steel are marked by years of use. Times spent teaching young kids essential Indian dishes combined with the unique waft one receives each time the masala dabba is opened brings an endless supply of memories to their owners.

How to Set Up a Masala Dabba

1. Find a good quality Masala Dabba is a size that fits your needs. Make sure it’s made of quality stainless steel that won’t easily dent. Pick a size that will allow you to use the spices before they get too old. They range from 7″ to 12″ in diameter. Wash the containers thoroughly and be sure each piece is dry before adding the spices.

2. Fill with fresh spices. Below is a list of the basic items to have on hand:

Black Mustard Seeds

Cumin Seeds

Fenugreek or Coriander Seeds

Garam Masala

Tumeric Powder

Red Chili Powder

Coriander Powder

3. Replace lid snapping tight to ensure freshness. Store in a cool dark place, preferably on a shelf or inside a cupboard.

Rail road crossings are common in India bringing with them a colorful display of argumentative Indians who must wait for oncoming trains to pass. Fresh tourists quickly learn that safety isn’t always of the utmost concern for the Indian driver. The sounds of bells as lights flash signaling the closing of a road for an expected train minutes-out, creates a mad dash compared only to the crowds at a Wal-Mart after-Christmas sale. Scooters, buses, cars, bicycles pedestrians and many other stray forms of transportation speed to the closing gates in hopes of saving themselves from being stuck in line.

As the final lucky traveler bumps over railroad tracks carrying forth precious cargo and passengers the remaining vehicles must wait. This wait or better phrased ‘exercise in patience’ can last just a few minutes to well past 20-30 minutes. Front vehicles on both sides of the railroad gate would hold the leadership position in the U.S. But in India, this prime location means nothing. They are simply a hurdle to be over-passed. Cars and trucks jockey for better positioning near the gate. Regardless of the single line that has formed, drivers now pull to the left and right sides of traffic creating an hourglass effect fanning out from the crossing. Many times aggressive drivers just create a second lane of traffic in the opposing lane. Scooters cram into any open space between vehicles as pedestrians and bicycles easily pass under the gates and toward their destination on the other side of the tracks.

Drivers and passengers wait outside vehicles blocking oncoming traffic as they wait for a train

Arguments arise between drivers before the train passes. Aggressive positioning by one driver allowing him a more dominate opportunity to pass the tracks a mere 5 seconds sooner than his counterpart is cause enough to stir a shouting match. Wild hand gestures mixed with Hinglish attracts the attention of fellow travelers. Soon several men may be arguing over the idiocy of one driver not realizing they all have created a traffic jam by not following a simple single line. Finally the train passes just as the argument takes it’s fifth or sixth repetitive course. After all of the logical arguments have been made, drivers rush back to their cars quickly reigniting them in hopes of cutting ahead of just one vehicle. This dominant display incites frustration and the unspoken reaffirmation that most things in India, even the simple task of lining up at a railroad crossing, are a headache. For the foreign tourist it’s a humorous scene that repeats itself time again regardless of which part of the country you find yourself stuck at a train crossing.

Blink and you’ll miss the small outpost of Phalodi, halfway between Jaisalmer and Bikaner. Many tourists may only look at this dusty two-horse desert town as a refueling stop; But in recent years, as tourism continues to spread across the outer rim of Rajasthan, a local ritual in the nearby village of Keechen has attracted a lot of attention. It’s this area where, at last count, nearly 7,000 demoiselle cranes come to winter.

Demoiselle cranes are the smallest of the crane species. Standing 3 feet tall, they weigh approximately 4-7 pounds with no atypical distinguishing feature about them except for their unmistakable call. Loud, trumpeting and higher pitched than the common crane, their conversations can be heard long before you can see them. The cranes begin their winter migration between August and September. It’s an arduous task which involves flying at altitudes as high as 26,000 ft in order to cross from Northern China/Southern Russia over the Himalayan mountains to the grasslands of India. Many die from fatigue & hunger or at the predation of eagles.

For more than 150 years the cranes have reportedly been coming to Keechen. Why? Villagers spread grain on the fields for the birds. In fact, feeding of the birds is a routine process, twice a day at 6:30 and 3:30 every day. The birds are in full force at these times, yet it’s still possible to see those that linger in-between feedings. A small seating platform has been constructed just steps from the reservoir’s edge. From here, 180º views of the birds in the natural landscape is easily seen.

Tourists can find the feeding grounds four kms off the main road. A freshly paved concrete road brings vehicles within steps of the small sand dunes marking the embankment of the water reservoir. HEADS UP: Before travelers can disembark from their vehicle, local kids begin an aggravating process of begging for money. No tricks performed, no homemade products to sell, these villager children walk with no shame as their outstretched hands ask for Rs 10. Unfortunately it doesn’t end at the small parking lot. Persistence must have proven to be successful as the kids follow tourists ad nauseum around the reservoir.

Plan on a minimum of 30 minutes to view the birds. This is a great chance to stretch tired legs, grab fresh air and break out the camera.

A short walk from the Jaisalmer fort will land you on the banks of Gadi Sagar, a popular local hangout. Tourists come by default as part of their preplanned itineraries, and Do-it-Yourself travelers make an appearance following the advice of guide books. Built in 1367, this rainwater reservoir was once the only source of water for the desert city of Jaisalmer in the northern state of Rajasthan. These days it’s the sight of the well known Ganguar festival. In March or April, depending on the calendar year, single women throw flowers into the lake while praying for a good husband.

Ironically, it was a prostitute that left her mark on Gadi Sagar (Sagar = lake/sea). In 1909, Tilon, a local prostitute known for her wealthy clientele, commissioned the gateway over the ghat leading to the lake. Translated simply as Tilon Gate, a group of local townspeople were not happy with the thought of entering through a gate built by such a person. The local ruler ordered the gate to be torn down after the successful urging of the townspeople. But Tilon, famed for her beauty, also had smarts on her side. She quickly had a statue of Krishna installed on top. The dismantling would now be unheard of due to religious reasons. Tilon’s Gate still stands to this day welcoming those that come to see the lake.

Upon arrival visitors are met with solicitations for guides and/or camel rides to the lake. Given the walk is a direct paved route from the parking lot to Tilon-Ki-Pol there is no need to entertain either offer. A folklore museum is located midway between the parking lot and the lake. Open daily, exhibits include folk art and textiles relevant to this area. It’s more interesting to move directly to the lake.

Steps upward flank both sides of the gate. Take the right side where you’ll find comfort under shade from several old growth trees as well as loaves of bread for sale and a few small merchant stalls. The bread may seem baffling at first until you peer over the edge above to find locals feeding swarms of giant catfish below. Once through the gate tourists can rent a boat for a relaxing ride around this man made body of water. Interspersed with ghats and small temples made of sandstone, most of the city’s noise disappears here.

Guides will prompt travelers to the left of the gate where a local Shiva temple exists. Never wanting to miss a chance to fleece tourists, local “artisans” and touts have made this area their office. Easily brushed off, the next disturbance is the younger local population. Jovial heckles and whistles, all meant to gather attention to themselves, come from small groups of men who linger around the lake’s edges. Combined with other tourists, touts and visiting locals, move beyond this cluster to the opposite side of the lake. A small pathway leads past stadium-like seats hugging the left side of the lake. Eventually the path narrows to a single dirt trail where cows and dogs lie in the cool mud from the partially dried lake bed. A 180º curve loops toward a small peninsula accessed by a causeway. It may feel like trespassing given there are NO tourists or locals to be seen. Under the restful rustling of leaves, one can quietly move about in peace. Panoramic views of the lake as well as the discovery of the fort behind are well worth the extra 10 minutes of walking.

There is no entry fee to the lake. Visitors should plan a minimum of 30 minutes if you stick to the tourist schedule, 1 hour or longer if walking to the opposite temple. Bottled water is sold near the entrance as well as other cold beverages. And there is a small cafe located adjacent the Shiva temple with lakefront views. Tuk tuk’s are plentiful for a quick ride back to the fort area.

There is no secret that tourists on a tour of India come to Jaisalmer for the desert and camels. Thoughts of wind-carved sand dunes covered step-by-step on the back of a camel is par for the course in the remote Rajasthan city. And the Thar Desert plays perfect host for travelers eager to connect with one of India’s most iconic images. Specifically, the sand dunes of Sam, 42kms from Jaisalmer, provide the playground for novice riders.

Beginning near the 4 P.M. hour, droves of tourists converge on the main parking lot within walking distance of the Desert National Park. Buses, private cars and taxis bring out the adventurous, the young, the elderly both local and foreign to the outer edges of civilization. Lined along the two lane road, partially overtaken by sand in areas, are camels in numbers not seen beyond Pushkar. Dressed in typical Indian finery the camels take their customers on a short journey into the dunes to watch the coming sunset. Laughter mixed with smiles, sometimes yells of joy, can be overheard by friends, couples and groups taking in the experience.

How to Book

There are several ways to take part in the sunset camel rides of Sam.

1. Most tourists arriving to Sam are traveling as part of a group or on a planned itinerary with prearranged programs upon arrival. Drivers and/or tour guides will direct participants to the proper area where they will meet their camels. From there travelers can choose to ride as a pair or individually with the camel guide. A predetermined route and length of time ensures the best views of the setting sun.

Pro: Easiest option. Camel rides arranged by travel agency, cost is built into package.

Con: None. Everything is handled for you.

Tourists cover the dunes at Sam making it hard to find peaceful solitary

2. Camel safari packages booked either through local hotels or in the city’s market often include a visit to Sam for the sunset. Depending on the length of safari chosen, customers will either disembark afterward or go on to an overnight stay in the desert.

Pro: Cheaper rates than travel agency booking. Ability to customize the program.

Con: First time travelers may not know what to ask for in terms of length of ride, areas covered. Hidden costs sometimes appear.

3. Multiple tent “villages” have sprouted along the road from Sam to Jaisalmer. These temporary housing spots offering a simple bed and breakfast alternative to overnight camel safaris. Sunset camel rides are included in room packages. Camels are waiting for arriving guests just outside the property walls.

Pro: No fuss experience. Camel ride is built into room package. Start and end on-site.

Con: No hot water for early morning showers. No alternate food options if you don’t like what is offered.

4. Pick-up Rides. There appears to be no limit to the supply of camels at Sam. Tourists arriving with no reservations will be bombarded by endless offers for a ride into the desert. There is no hard and fast way to determine whether the persistent offers are completely legit. Be armed with multiple questions such as A) How long is the ride? B) Where does the ride go? C) What is the total cost, per person/for the group D) Will you bring us back to this spot? TIP: Camel owners are tricky. Before you agree on a ride, be sure the ride includes a return ride back to the parking lot or you may be left out in the dunes. Owners wanting to maximize their earnings will bring riders into the dunes then depart to pick up more customers potentially leaving you stranded.

Pro: Pick of the litter. Start where you like. Shop for the best deals.

Con: Need to arrive with plenty of time before sunset to ensure you reach the best picture taking spots. No way to check reputation thus a long list of questions beforehand.

Tip For Female Travelers: Indian men can be perpetual boys. Camel drivers will sit behind female riders in a childish bid to entertain their fantasies. Tell the driver to sit ahead of you or walk alongside the camel on foot.

Is it Worth it?

A visit to Sam is an experience not to be entered into blindly. Sunset views over the seemingly infinite desertscape is breathtaking on paper, but in reality, Sam is quite different.

-The terrain at Sam is more “authentic” in the sense of climbing up and down sand dunes compared to other safaris available in Bikaner and Osian which are more long distance flat walks. Travelers with back issues may want to consider walking alongside the camel.

-The parking lot is choked with tourist vehicles as well as stalls selling chai, water, sweets and more. This has resulted in outer edges of the Desert National Park strewn with plastic wrappers, bottles and other discarded trash.

-The sheer number of visitors overwhelms the nearby dunes. A constant cavalcade of voices carries through the wind making any chance of romantic overtures or peaceful escape into the desert unfulfilled. Screams, cries and yells mixed with crowded sand tops make it hard to find the imagined solace expected on the edge of nothing.

-Constant badgering for a camel ride disrupts picture taking.

-Local women who perform dances on the various dunes are looking for baksheesh.

-The traffic backlog afterward to Jaisalmer is cumbersome and tiring.

Summary

If a camel ride and sand dunes isn’t your cup of tea, skip Sam for the much quieter surroundings of Bada Bagh. The greener rolling hills just outside Jaisalmer are enchanting yet haunting. No touts combined with truly spectacular vistas make this my preferred pick.

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Questions regarding this fascination many times are brushed aside. Inquisitive travelers are often told that fair skin is becoming more common just as a matter of genetics. History tells the factual tale. Within India’s caste system, fairer skinned people were typically toward the top whereas the lower caste population (who often worked outdoors) were darker skinned. It’s no wonder that foreign tourists are looked upon in such high esteem.

While India reaches for skin whitening cream, the big business of cinema is stocked with fair skin actresses as well as the newest craze of fairer skinned male actors. Movies, ads and a overzealous celebrity culture are further ingraining the obsession of light skin.This well produced video presents one more reason why India is just so darn fascinating.