Picturesque views, challenging trekking, wildlife refuge…just a few reasons tourists are drawn to Sarahan. But the main reason travelers venture off Highway 22, up the forested slopes nestled between the Sangla and Pabbar Valley, is to see Bhimakali Temple. Once a palace of the Rampur Bushahr kings, the twin wooden towers of the present day temple are an iconic sight representing this small hillside town.

By 8 AM tourists and locals are already pouring into the temple grounds. Visitors access the entrance via a walk past too many merchant stalls peddling puja items.

Merchant stalls lining the path to Bhimakali Temple

On the left side is the temple sitting amongst the impeccably maintained grounds while on the right are poorly built, tarp covered steel traps with schlock for sale. This sight is common at nearly every popular temple yet something that seems inappropriate for such “holy” places.

But once inside, the street noise almost disappears in favor of passers by reciting prayers, hands held to their head, a few beggars hobbling through the crowd looking for sympathy, and the click click of tourist cameras. Four temples can be found scattered throughout the gated temple grounds where non-Hindus are welcome in all areas. An exact age of the temple is unknown, but historical events in the 7th century include reference to the temple. Other parts are said to be 800 years old.

The architecture is unlike most other Hindu temples, built in a rather Tibetan style quality of wood and mortar. Carved wood panels, doors and trim throughout show the regal palace details. And while I stood in awe of this showpiece, the crowd around me in the main courtyard seemed to find little interest in anything but performing their prayers.

Guest rooms available at budget rates but must be reserved well in advance

Tourists should plan a minimum of 1 hour to walk the grounds and enter the temples. Travel time varies due to road conditions so an overnight stay is suggested. Call ahead to reserve a room in town as accommodations are limited, or contact Anshuman Resorts for an even better overall visit to Sarahan. Also, there are 6 VIP double bed rooms on sight within the temple, along with 14 dorm rooms which fill quickly.

Bus service runs throughout the day via Rampur, Narkanda and Shimla. There is no entrance fee and cameras are allowed.

History and About

Unassuming entrance into temple property

With its unusual architecture and wealth of wood carvings, Shri Bhima Kali Temple at Sarahan is the major monument that is duplicated no where else in the erstwhile hill states. Dedicated to the mother goddess Bhimakali presiding deity of the Rulers of former Bushahr Sate, situated at 2150 mtrs MSL this magnificent temple is about 180 kms. from Shimla. With its capital at Shonitpur this former princely state was extended up to entire area of Kinnaur where for somtimes Lord Shiva disguised himself as Kirat. Today, the then Shonitpur is known as Sarahan. Banasur, the ardent devotee of Lord Siva, eldest among the one hundred sons of great oblative demon King Bali and the great grandson of Visnu votary Prahlad, during the Puranic age was the ruler of this princely state.

Due to Usha-Anirudh affairs Lord Krishna fought here with him and in this battle Lord Siva stood against the former.The legend goes that head of the defeatd king Banasur was buried in front of the entry gate now marked as a raised platform to the first courtyard. Reaching a few steps up from the road to this paved courtyard pilgrims enter into a different world. After Banasur, Pradyuman the incarnation of cupid and the son of Lord Krishna became the Ruler of this Kingdom. Since then this Kingdom was governed uninterruptedly by the descendants of this dynasty till the end of the princely states in independent India.In the State capital this ruling family got constructed a splendid temple palace complex and recognised mothergoddess Bhimakali as the presiding deity of the ruling house.

Beautifully preserved carved wood is seen throughout every building

The goddess according to another legend was consecrated earlier in the wooden stick of a sage Bhimgiri. Another hearsay about the manifestation of the goddess is reported to the Daksha-Yajna incident when the ear of the Sati fell at this place and became a place of worship as a Pitha – Sthan. Presently in the form of a virgin the icon of this eternal goddess is consecrated at the top storey of the new building. Below that storey the goddess as Parvati, the daughter of Himalaya is enshrined as a divine consort of Lord Siva. Another three temples in this complex are dedicated to Lord Raghunathji, Narsinghji at and Patal Bhairva Ji – the guardian deity.

An important deota often has another deota as its wazir and the wazir occupies a small temple adjoining the main one or his image is placed near the door. Thus Maheshra of Shingra is wazir to the temple of Bhima Kali at Sarahan ( gazetteer 1910 ). According to a report an erratic rock stone of a roof of the house, fixed on the way at the main entrance of this temple narrates the story of a royal traitor of ‘ Thoru’  village. Now under the chairmanship of present Hon’ ble Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh Shri Virbhadra Singh the temple trust is working effectively and efficiently. Twelve ancient temples are included under the aegis of this trust.

Fairs and Festivals

Main entrance leading into courtyard of twin towers

The Principal religious festival udyapan Jag connected with this temple and is celebrated at intervals of a hundred years or more. In 1904, the last Jag, took place 280 years after the preceding one. That time the temple treasury contributed about Rs. 30,000 /- and only a small subscription was taken from the temple. The Jag lasted six months during that time 600 goats were sacrificed and sixty Brahmans housed and fed. The Hom Ceremony (feeding the sacred fire ) lasted for 11 days and for 5 or 6 days there were an immense gatherings of people from all parts of the state. All the deities were brought in and a ground feast was given to the whole assemblage.

The fair of Navratras ( Nine auspicious nights ) are held twice in a year in Chaitra and Ashvin Hindu Months i.e.in April and October. These navratras are most significant from religious point of view. During these navratras “Durga Saptashati” text is recited by the priest. Everyday Hundreds of pilgrims throng in at this shrine during these navratras from home and abroad. During Ashwin Navratras three days Dussehra festival is celebrated. Deities from the various parts of the erstwhile Bushahr state along with their devotees are also present on this occasion. Thousands of local people also through in at that time. Besides Krishan Janamashtmi, Budhi Dewali etc. are also celebrated with all religious fervor at the temple premises. Source- Bhimakali Online