Hidden away in the remote desolation of Himachal Pradesh, away from dense urban populations or the distractions of modern India, lies a road less traveled. This road, paved in some places while nothing more than a dusty gravel trail in other areas, winds up the eastern border of India and Tibet, through the Kunzum Pass, and back down into the heart of the state. It connects a vast region of 33 Buddhist monasteries interspersed among the natural beauty of a high altitude desert, snow capped mountains, rock cut valleys and majestic forests. Some locations lie in the relative isolation of tribal areas while others reside as the heart of their town’s tourism. There are no favorites among this list of monasteries. They all offer the individual traveler something unique, something often words cannot express.
1. Reckong Peo: Brelengi Gompa / Monastery of Mahabodhi Society
This Buddhist monastery in the small village of Brelengi, near Reckong Peo, is nearly hidden under the natural forest cover. If not for the 10 meter high statue of Lord Buddha Kinnaur tirelessly peering over the Kinnaur Kilash mountain in the distance, tourists would struggle to find the newer built Brelengi Gompa. Monastery of Mahabodhi Society specially constructed the smaller building for the Dalai Lama to perform the Kalachakra ceremony in 1992. A long walk and steep climb ensues to finally reach the statue and adjacent central prayer hall.
2. Tabo: Tabo Monastery
The oldest monastery of India, historic buildings are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. Meditation caves within the mountains border the town line, visible from the single road which passes the monastery complex. Nine original temples remain along with 4 decorated stupas, a dormitory, and classrooms. Temple interiors contain beautiful paintings bringing a wave of tourists to this small farming community every fall and late spring.
3. Dhankar: Dhankar Monastery
Several multi-storied buildings sit atop a mountain peak more than 12,000 feet in the sky. The fort monastery originated nearly 1000 years past, even serving as a prison for a period of time. Present day visitors will find a new monastery stands in the small village of Schichling below the old monastery. Also known as Lha-O-pa Gompa, the old Dhankar Monastery houses a life size silver image of Vajradhara (Buddha). Thirty-three jig-jags (hairpin turns) are required to reach the top by road. Happy trekking!
4. Kaza: Sakya Tenggyu Monastery / Sayka Kaza Monastery
His Holiness the Dalai Lama inaugurated the new Sakya Tenggyu monastery on July 9, 2009. From here, visitors gain stunning landscape views of Spiti Valley. Behind the newer building lies the old Kaza Monastery accessible via a short climb up a mountain side. An impressive row of chortens with inset prayer wheels lines the pathway in front of the main entrance.
5. Ki / Kye: Kye Monastery
Kye Monastery leaves a lasting impression long before reaching the main gate. It’s mutli-storied buildings similar to Dhankar Monastery etch the stone landscape as if a natural formation. An imposing climb is effortlessly slashed given road access nearly to the front doors. However a steep climb up the fort-like entry pathway is still needed to finish the final ascent. Rangoli designs along the way inspire and intrigue even the most hardened guest. Pale buildings initially seen from afar come to life in vivid colors when viewed close up.
6. Kibber: Kibber Monastery
Finding the monastery in this lofty altitude town poses a challenge given all the homes and buildings share an identical look as the monastery. Kibber Monastery is very discreet, blending into the khaki colored scenery. Weather has worn the facade in need of a fresh coat of paint. Mind-numbing views of Spiti Valley at 14,000 feet high nearly drops you to your knees. Not from altitude sickness rather from the feeling of being able to literally, touch the sky.
7. Rewalsar: Drikung Kagyud Gompa, Tso-Pema Ogyen Heru-kai Nyingmapa Gompa, Zigar Drukpa Kagyu Gompa
Drikung Kagyud Gompa quietly sits near the main public entrance of a winding lake walkabout. One feels like they are snooping as you pass dormitory rooms along a narrow pathway until finally reaching a small courtyard just outside the doors of the main prayer hall. Don’t let the slightly un-kept exterior fool you. Lounging dogs barely muster the strength to greet visitors who must see the tremendous murals covering the exterior and interior walls.
Tso-Pema Ogyen Heru-kai Nyingmapa Gompa or just Nyingmapa for short, commands the attention of all who enter the marble courtyard. Neat and clean is an understatement of this monastery placed directly on the banks of Rewalsar Lake. It is the oldest of Rewalsar’s monasteries built in the 19th century. Foreign and Indian guests can find budget lodging within the complex as well as a museum and of course, a prayer hall.
Zigar Gompa is the newest of the Rewalsar monasteries. A 12 meter high Padmasambhava statue set upon a platform which doubles as working monastery space can be seen for great distances away from the Rewalsar skyline. This remarkable feat of construction towers over the hillside with splendid aerial views of the town, lake and nearby valley. You’ll need to use a tuk tuk or the advice of a local to help you find your way along the right road leading to the gompa.
8. Bir: Palyul Chokhorling Monastery, Pema Ewam Chögar Gyurme Ling Monastery, Dzongsar Khyentse Chokyi Lodro Institute
Unknowing tourists to Bir may be overwhelmed at the number of monasteries to explore upon arrival. The monasteries of Bir are unlike any other on this list with sprawling edifices built right to the edge of property lines like big box stores overtaking a freshly cut forest. Yet, the mega-buildings are gorgeous. Each one adds on the last. Bigger, grander, more colorful, and more intriguing. Foreigners have a chance to learn Buddhism from experts at Deer Park Institute. Travel within Bir requires a very good map or local guide, sneakers, a good camera, and access to a tuk tuk or car. It’s just impossible to see all the monasteries in Bir by foot.
9. Dharamsala: Norbulingka Institute
Half Buddhist teaching school, a quarter monastery (loosely defined), and a quarter luxury haven for western tourists with an interest in eastern religion, Norbulingka is as curious as they come. Impeccably maintained grounds envelope a series of buildings that feel as if they sprouted organically from the earth. Comfortable dorm rooms appear more like a hotel on one end of the campus, as teachings are preformed in a number of buildings centered near the main prayer hall. A doll museum is opposite the upscale retail center stocked with quality goods that fairly represent the hefty price tags. End a visit at the corner cafe before whisking back to any number of neighboring resorts or stay overnight as a paying guest.
10. Mcleodganj: Tsuglagkhang Complex, Namgyal Monastery, Tsuglagkhang Temple
The mothership. Find the residence of the Dalai Lama at Tsuglagkhang Complex overlooking the Dhauladhar Range. Watch as the entire town is transfixed by his arrival. Monks line the last few meters coming toward the main mall continuing through town until finally reaching his home. On a regular day, monks can be seen walking the streets as they debate whether the iPhone or Droid is better. Find a spot near the Buddhist temple near the main square to watch passersby spin the prayer wheels.
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